C5 to Manual trans

[85_Ranger4x4]

I had to move my cross member forward to the next set of holes also once the engine was in, but everything did bolt right up - that was probably one of the easiest parts except for getting the rivets out.

Was yours the other style of crossmember that sits more under the frame than inside it? Ford can do some pretty stupid things but I can't see them forcing you to cut rivets to get the tranny out... and with my crossmember you would have to. The style like my '86 parts truck you just tap out two bolts and the crossmember falls out leaving the mounting brackets in place.

Pretty sure the ATX from my Tempo weighs more than an AOD. The TK-5 from my 2.0L truck surprised me for how light it was. I also think the SOHC I4 blocks are heavier than the V6s with no cam. Maybe it was just the day I was working on things...

I have never wrangled a 4wd AOD but my A4LD wasn't proportionally lighter for its strength than a 2wd AOD.

 

[Psychopete]

The style like my '86 parts truck you just tap out two bolts and the crossmember falls out leaving the mounting brackets in place.

Both my '88 a4ld and '87 TK-5 were that way, both 2wd. Both single cab, one long bed and the other is a short. Sucks when those bolts sieze up. Can't believe they would force you to take those rivets out to drop the transmission cross member either, that's just nuts.

 

[AgPete139]

Good info on this thread.

Regarding your other question and going off of what was said with the transmission fluid choice, it depends on the condition of the transmission.

You are supposed to change the fluid around 100k miles, but sometimes people negate this service interval. I have gotten over 200k miles on my original M5 tranny, and I ride that bitch hard. I shift harshly and revv higher than 3.3k RPM, and my transmission is just now starting to grind in 3rd if I am not easy with it. I've been baby-ing it since it first grinded, and it is still operating like normal. Then again, I've got 35" tires w/ 4.88 gearing, and quick acceleration puts strain on ANY transmission. You will get a lot of miles on your new donor transmission, so don't worry about mileage too much.


If you use gear oil or other types of tranny fluid other than Mercon V, it will gum up and clog the smaller ports and crannies of the M5OD-R1. I would change out the fluid anyways.

Also, if you want to go the extra mile, pay $1.50 extra per quart and pick up the Pennzoil Synchromesh transmission fluid instead. It works noticeably better than the regular automatic transmission fluid, since it is thinner, lubricates and adheres better, runs quieter, shifts smoother, and (what I've read but haven't checked myself) operates at a cooler temperature. Your transmission accepts roughly 3 quarts.

Everything stated above is accurate. The transmission x-member is one of those things that takes more time than you originally anticipate. Grinding the rivets out can be a few hours task in itself, with the right tools. Get a grinder, a punch, and a good 3 lb mini sledge. Many people have had success with using a cutoff wheel to get "behind" the rivet head (and some notch the head with an "X" first). 6 rivets for a x-member and additional rivets (2-4+) to move it if other get in the way can be a pain.

Honestly, I think it's too much work. I'd replace it with an automatic, and spend the several hours and time to do something fun. It's an '84 BII, and although it's distinctly yours, there are other manual trucks out there. But, if you're up for the task and have the skills, go for it and have a good time (not sarcasm). It just requires a lot of work, and there are other people on here that have documented this process.

Either way, good luck!



.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Good info on this thread.

Regarding your other question and going off of what was said with the transmission fluid choice, it depends on the condition of the transmission.

You are supposed to change the fluid around 100k miles, but sometimes people negate this service interval. I have gotten over 200k miles on my original M5 tranny, and I ride that bitch hard. I shift harshly and revv higher than 3.3k RPM, and my transmission is just now starting to grind in 3rd if I am not easy with it. I've been baby-ing it since it first grinded, and it is still operating like normal. Then again, I've got 35" tires w/ 4.88 gearing, and quick acceleration puts strain on ANY transmission. You will get a lot of miles on your new donor transmission, so don't worry about mileage too much.


If you use gear oil or other types of tranny fluid other than Mercon V, it will gum up and clog the smaller ports and crannies of the M5OD-R1. I would change out the fluid anyways.

Also, if you want to go the extra mile, pay $1.50 extra per quart and pick up the Pennzoil Synchromesh transmission fluid instead. It works noticeably better than the regular automatic transmission fluid, since it is thinner, lubricates and adheres better, runs quieter, shifts smoother, and (what I've read but haven't checked myself) operates at a cooler temperature. Your transmission accepts roughly 3 quarts.

Everything stated above is accurate. The transmission x-member is one of those things that takes more time than you originally anticipate. Grinding the rivets out can be a few hours task in itself, with the right tools. Get a grinder, a punch, and a good 3 lb mini sledge. Many people have had success with using a cutoff wheel to get "behind" the rivet head (and some notch the head with an "X" first). 6 rivets for a x-member and additional rivets (2-4+) to move it if other get in the way can be a pain.

Honestly, I think it's too much work. I'd replace it with an automatic, and spend the several hours and time to do something fun. It's an '84 BII, and although it's distinctly yours, there are other manual trucks out there. But, if you're up for the task and have the skills, go for it and have a good time (not sarcasm). It just requires a lot of work, and there are other people on here that have documented this process.

Either way, good luck!



.

Thanks for the info, thanks to everyone my birthday is in november so more to come on this then! i think i know everything i need to know really just kinda foggy on the driveshaft issue.

 

[AgPete139]

Thanks for the info, thanks to everyone my birthday is in november so more to come on this then! i think i know everything i need to know really just kinda foggy on the driveshaft issue.

You will need to get a custom driveshafts made, or if you can weld, shorten or elongate both of them yourself. 85_Ranger asnwered this when he stated that he adjusted each shaft by 4".

I am unfamiliar with any direct replacement shafts for the BII though.

Hopefully one of the B2 guys can comment further on this.



.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

You will need to get a custom driveshafts made, or if you can weld, shorten or elongate both of them yourself. 85_Ranger asnwered this when he stated that he adjusted each shaft by 4".

I am unfamiliar with any direct replacement shafts for the BII though.

Hopefully one of the B2 guys can comment further on this.



.

Maybe someone whos done this same swap can tell me how long their driveshaft is and i can go driveshaft hunting.

 

[AgPete139]

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