Pleeeease Help!!

[shane96ranger]

If it has thrown a code, it will read it. There's always a chance it has not yet. Let's cross our fingers!

Sent while I should be doing something else

 

[CrazyRN]

Welp, no such luck finding someone to come out & scan & not gonna go fork out $$ to buy one since I was told this am that a cheap one bought @ the auto parts store will most likely not give me the EXACT problem anyhow. So, time to jack this baby up & drop that pan & take a look. Stupid question (another one, ha!), but is there a visual way to tell if the solenoid is the culprit or just replace it, refill fluid & see what happens?

 

[CrazyRN]

Making Progress...

Welp, no such luck finding someone to come out & scan & not gonna go fork out $$ to buy one since I was told this am that a cheap one bought @ the auto parts store will most likely not give me the EXACT problem anyhow. So, time to jack this baby up & drop that pan & take a look. Stupid question (another one, ha!), but is there a visual way to tell if the solenoid is the culprit or just replace it, refill fluid & see what happens?

This was my thorn in the side as far as dropping the pan...I thought I'd NEVER get that dang bolt outta there!! & I'm sure its gonna be loads of fun trying to get it back in! Geesh! Should I have removed that other piece?

 

[Andy D]

The other piece looks to be exhaust. Try giving it a gentle pry to move it out of the way.

 

[CrazyRN]

Ok...Need Some Help Guys!

Ok, so I got the pan dropped & this is what I see. As stupid as it may sound...which is the TCC solanoid that I need to remove? Also, does it pull straight out & do I have to disconnect the battery before removing it? Thanks...hopefully I'll be finished with this soon & yall can move on to bigger & better things, lol!

 

[CrazyRN]

The other piece looks to be exhaust. Try giving it a gentle pry to move it out of the way.

Shoot, I had to give it much more than a gentle pry to move it over & its still not completely outta the way! Dread tryin to get that thing back in there!

 

[CrazyRN]

So anyhow, I have placed a couple bolts back in to hold the pan up (so nothing gets in there) & will wait to hopefully get some insight from here. Need to know exactly which one of those is the TCC Solanoid that I need to remove & does it just pull out. & still wondering if there is a visual way to tell if thats even my problem or if I just replace it & see.

 

[adsm08]

Ok, I know this pic kinda sucks, but it should get the point across.

#1 is the TCC solenoid. In the picture that you posted it should be the first one on the left.

As for the question of reverse, there is absolutely zero reason for the converter to be locked up in Reverse. That being the case, I believe that the hydraulic passage for the fluid used to apply the converter clutch is physically blocked off by another valve besides the one in the solenoid in Reverse.


The only real way to test the solenoid before replacing it is to remove it, put power and ground to it, and see if it clicks.

 

[CrazyRN]

Ok, I know this pic kinda sucks, but it should get the point across.

#1 is the TCC solenoid. In the picture that you posted it should be the first one on the left.

As for the question of reverse, there is absolutely zero reason for the converter to be locked up in Reverse. That being the case, I believe that the hydraulic passage for the fluid used to apply the converter clutch is physically blocked off by another valve besides the one in the solenoid in Reverse.


The only real way to test the solenoid before replacing it is to remove it, put power and ground to it, and see if it clicks.

It is running fine in reverse, will idle perfectly fine in neutral & park but dies just as soon as you shift into drive. Does the solenoid pull straight out?? Perhaps I will try to figure out how to test it before I replace it...Thanks a TON for all your help!!

 

[doorgunner]

ads?

could the solenoild be sticking causing the converter to stay locked (I don't know if it's a plunger-type solenoid which could work properly out of the trans....but get stuck while in the trans?

just guessing/wondering......

 

[84bluebronco2]

If I'm not mistaken, the torque converter isn't allowed to lock up in reverse.

 

[CrazyRN]

Keeping My Fingers Crossed...

Well, I plan to pull that solenoid either tomorrow or Monday & try to test it....& praying thats the culprit so that I can simply replace that & fluid & get him back runnin. Anybody know if I hafta have battery cables disconnected before I pull that solenoid out & does it simply pull straight out (or turn?)? Sure don't wanna break anything, lol..

 

[Mark_88]

It's always best to disconnect the battery regardless...never know when someone will crawl in the cab and see if they can play the radio while Mommy works on the twuck...ooops, turned the key a bit too far...ooops...are you OK down there Mommy?

 

[adsm08]

Battery disconnection is recommended and highly over rated. Heck, Ford's instructions for a tire rotation are "place vehicle in N, position on lift, and disconnect the battery". There should be some sort of retainer, possibly an entire retainer bridge, that holds the solenoid (or all of them) to the valve body. Probably two small bolts to remove it. Once that is out of the way it will pull out, but there are two or three o-ring seals on the neck that will help hold it in place. You may need to wiggle it a bit or use a small screw driver to pry it back.

Be careful taking it out, the valve body is a highly machined, very sharp piece of metal and the corners can easily slice into your fingers. Apply some clean ATF to the rings on the new unit before installation.

 

[CrazyRN]

Battery disconnection is recommended and highly over rated. Heck, Ford's instructions for a tire rotation are "place vehicle in N, position on lift, and disconnect the battery". There should be some sort of retainer, possibly an entire retainer bridge, that holds the solenoid (or all of them) to the valve body. Probably two small bolts to remove it. Once that is out of the way it will pull out, but there are two or three o-ring seals on the neck that will help hold it in place. You may need to wiggle it a bit or use a small screw driver to pry it back.

Be careful taking it out, the valve body is a highly machined, very sharp piece of metal and the corners can easily slice into your fingers. Apply some clean ATF to the rings on the new unit before installation.

Thanks so much!! Guess I'll try to get it out in the am when I get off work...hopefully won't cut my fingers off or have any other major issues, lol. REALLY appreciate the help!