For those that have replaced leaf spring hangers...

[F8LBITE]

And let's not forget to lather everything up with never seize upon reassembly.

 

[Jimbo45]

I would recommend a propane torch w/ map gas before starting this repair-

You know, I have some mapp gas and a torch, but didn't know if getting the leaf springs that hot was good for them, plus, I assumed the rubber spring bushings would catch fire doing this, which might be a quick way to remove them, but kinds scarey with all that gas nearby, and performing this in my attached garage. If I was outdoors, I would probably have gone that route!

And let's not forget to lather everything up with never seize upon reassembly.

Yep, gonna pick some up this afternoon. How is yours coming? Done?


Hey, anyone know the torque specs for the suspension bolts? Might be somewhat important since there is some movement with those shackles.

Well, I'm back at it....

 

[F8LBITE]

Shackle to spring nut and bolt 1995- on 65-87 ft-lbs
Spring shackle to rear bracket bolt 1995-on 65-87 ft-lbs
Spring to front bracket bolt 1995-on 65-87 ft-lbs
Shock to lower bracket nut. 39-53 ft-lbs
Shock to upper bracket nut. 39-53 ft-lbs

Got these specs from the Haynes manual

I'm not done yet. I havent really been hitting it all too hard, I'll post up some pics later

 

[Jimbo45]

Shackle to spring nut and bolt 1995- on 65-87 ft-lbs
Spring shackle to rear bracket bolt 1995-on 65-87 ft-lbs
Spring to front bracket bolt 1995-on 65-87 ft-lbs
Shock to lower bracket nut. 39-53 ft-lbs
Shock to upper bracket nut. 39-53 ft-lbs

Got these specs from the Haynes manual

I'm not done yet. I havent really been hitting it all too hard, I'll post up some pics later

Awesome! Thanks!

I worked on mine here and there this after noon.

Started cutting the rivets with a cutting wheel:

Removed the hangers, thenn re cut the rivets flush:

Knocked the rivets out with a punch and hammer:

Hit the frame with a flapper wheel and shot some rustoleum that I had on hand. All ready for new hangers! Well, after I replace the spring bushings after supper:

 

[F8LBITE]

Making good progress! Here are a few of my latest pics. I'm waiting for my front leaf spring bushings to show up from Rock Auto, so in the mean time I'm painting and replacing all of my parking brake cables.

 

[racsan]

2. Who ever said "removing the bed bolts will be the hardest part" is on crack.

actually, this was one of the worst parts for me, i had a breaker bar with a pipe on it, 1/4 turn at a time for all the bolts, creak,creak,creak. ended up buying a 2nd torx bit because the first one was rounding off. and yes i did soak everything from underneath with wd-40. i tried using a impact, but it didnt budge the bolts at all. i did use a actelyne torch to help with the removal with the spring eye bushings, and i also used it to remove the rear hangers from the frame, for the fronts i used a air chiesel & punch bit. i did anti-sieze the heck out of things when i re-assembled, bolts were self-lockers, so i just tightend them down good, didnt put a torque wrench to anything. i did all the work outside. if i had to do it all over again id use the air hammer with the chiesel & puch bits for all the hanger rivit & bolt removal, useing the torch there made things hotter than they needed to be and kind of buggered up the holes in the frame, i didnt use the torch up front simply because the fuel tank closeness made me uncomfortable, when i used the torch for the left front spring bushing, i had a sheet metal sheid between the spring & frame.

 

[racsan]

Making good progress! Here are a few of my latest pics. I'm waiting for my front leaf spring bushings to show up from Rock Auto, so in the mean time I'm painting and replacing all of my parking brake cables.

looking good!

 

[Jimbo45]

Wow, yours is looking great!

I just came in for a break. Removing the spring bushings was cake. BUT, if you got the same ones I got from rockauto, then you are in for a treat. I can NOT get the front one (first one I tried) in! I cleaned up the inside of the eye with a 1 1/2" hole saw, but that thing is TIGHT. It has a metal sleeve around the whole bushing and is a press fit. I have hammered, no go. Now have a piece of all thread and some PVC and washers and nuts, and amm trying to press it in that way. Now it is 1/4 way in, and stuck, and not sure it I can get it out, to try to hone the inside of the eye!?

Off to search the net for any ideas, and if no luck, I am done for the night. I really wish I had never taken the stock bushing out, it didn't look that bad. I may just leave the other three now....

 

[racsan]

mine were a tight fit, i sanded the inside of the spring eye to get it as smooth as possible, lubed it & the outside casing of the new bushing with anti-sieze, used a threaded rod, i think it was 1/2-20, and "drew" it in with a 1/2 drive ratchet. used a socket to match the diameter of the bushing and a thick piece of steel as my "washer" for the back side of the spring eye. (it was part of a old field mower blade).

 

[F8LBITE]

looking good!

Wow, yours is looking great!

I just came in for a break. Removing the spring bushings was cake. BUT, if you got the same ones I got from rockauto, then you are in for a treat. I can NOT get the front one (first one I tried) in! I cleaned up the inside of the eye with a 1 1/2" hole saw, but that thing is TIGHT. It has a metal sleeve around the whole bushing and is a press fit. I have hammered, no go. Now have a piece of all thread and some PVC and washers and nuts, and amm trying to press it in that way. Now it is 1/4 way in, and stuck, and not sure it I can get it out, to try to hone the inside of the eye!?

Off to search the net for any ideas, and if no luck, I am done for the night. I really wish I had never taken the stock bushing out, it didn't look that bad. I may just leave the other three now....

Thanks guys!
Between trying racsan's method or maybe trying to incorporate a 2 jawed puller to try to press it in, I can't think of any other methods to really try at the moment.

 

[Jimbo45]

mine were a tight fit, i sanded the inside of the spring eye to get it as smooth as possible, lubed it & the outside casing of the new bushing with anti-sieze, used a threaded rod, i think it was 1/2-20, and "drew" it in with a 1/2 drive ratchet. used a socket to match the diameter of the bushing and a thick piece of steel as my "washer" for the back side of the spring eye. (it was part of a old field mower blade).

Yeah, thats basically the method I tried to push it in, but my spring must have been rougher inside than yours, not letting it go in very far.

What did you use to clean up the inside of the eye? I can't come up with any ideas for what I have on hand. Man, that stinks, I wanted to have this thing back on its tires tonight.

Good news, is that I got the new bushing back out. I may end up buying some polyurathane bushings for the fronts so I don't have to worry about trying to muscle these metal cased ones in, if I can't figure a way to hone the eyes.

 

[racsan]

i started out with a wire-wheel in a drill, then by hand used a small piece of 120 grit sandpaper.

 

[Jimbo45]

Ok, I got past the hump in the road last night. I had a snack, regrouped, and went to the 24 hr store and found some small grinding wheels/stones that I could chuck up in my drill.

Here's how I removed the bushings. Just drill a bunch of holes around the metal shaft, and pick out the pieces:

Then, after much grinding, filing, and sanding, I was able to get the metal sleeved bushing in (I went ahead and worked another 2 hours and did the other 3 too):

I then quit at 3 AM last night, after getting the new bushings in. My only concern is that after sanding the insides of the eyes past all the rust and making them smooth, the new bushings went in a little TOO easy. A few easy taps with a dead blow hammer, and they slid right in. I know the springs aren't going anywhere due to being encompassed by the hangers on both sides, but still, I would have preferred the bushings be more snug.

This afternoon, I hung the hangers and shackles, and my Dad stopped by, and we put the shocks on, and attached and torqued the leaf springs down. After putting on the P-brake springs and adding an elbow to the axle vent tube, it was ready for a bed! :

Just before dark, I cleaned up the threads on the bed bolts, slathered them with copper anti-sieze, and installed the bed! Man, the rear now rides the correct height, and the ride is so much better, with no clunking, and...wait for it....

the steering wheel is now centered when going down the highway! :

(Yes, that is road salt all over the truck. The main reason the hangers rotted the first time!)

So, now I just have to throw on the front shocks, paint the hood and front fenders, and this little guy is ready for another 100K!


Oh, and to answer the original question I asked at the beginning of this thread....yes, you all were right. The p-brake bracket IS a seperate part, and it just bolts on the outside of the hanger!

Thanks for all the help guys! Until the next project....

 

[F8LBITE]

That's great that it centered your steering wheel! I'm a little excited to finish mine up and see how it rides.

Today I did a little more painting, installed the shocks, installed my new parking brake cables, and lastly tightened up the front brackets. Oh, and I pulled the diff cover. I figured after 200 some thousand it would be a good idea to change it. Here's a few photo's of how it's looking now.

The cables aren't sitting right until I get that bushing installed and tightened up

Are you doing the painting on the body yourself?

 

[Jimbo45]

Randy, yours looks great! I wish I would had time to paint my frame like you did. Hey, your shocks look like mine! Yes, I plan to do the body painting myself, when it warms up a little.