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project family wheeler. chop top 1 ton explorer.


let me try to explain my train of thinking... first, is there any disagreement that the diff cover is not the strongest point to mount it to? (i'm not asking if it is strong ENOUGH, i'm asking if there is a stronger place on there to mount it to) regardless if it's a stock or aftermarket cover... so if there is a stronger place to mount it to, why would you not want to mount it to that stronger place, if all it means is moving it an inch or so?

Newb chimin' in here...mounting the ram as pictured will keep the front of the diff easily available for gear changes. Speaking as a guy with 'way too much experience setting up Danas, you'd want as little crap as possible in front of the opening. A honkin' big bracket welded to the long tube and angled over the cover would be really inconvenient to get a gearset around. The bracket being built into a very heavy duty diff cover should work just fine. The only thing I'd do additionally is use studs instead of bolts to mount the cover.
 
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And now that the cherry's broken...Aside from the threadjacks and family problems that consumed a dozen or more pages, I'm astounded at the progress you made over just a couple months for most of what has happened. Especially considering the brutal weather you dealt with in your part of the world.
And then the daughter's problems 'encroaching' on your build time...man, I don't know how you've kept most of your sanity. A day at a time, I guess: just like the rest of us.

I do have a couple questions that I didn't see addressed. 1st, where did the 4.0/435 adaption come from? Adapted the big Ford bell to the 4.0 with a custom plate? Or adapt the 435 to a 2.9/4.0 bell?

And now that I've got thru the first few pages, I'm subscribed! Good work!
 
And now that the cherry's broken...Aside from the threadjacks and family problems that consumed a dozen or more pages, I'm astounded at the progress you made over just a couple months for most of what has happened. Especially considering the brutal weather you dealt with in your part of the world.
And then the daughter's problems 'encroaching' on your build time...man, I don't know how you've kept most of your sanity. A day at a time, I guess: just like the rest of us.

I do have a couple questions that I didn't see addressed. 1st, where did the 4.0/435 adaption come from? Adapted the big Ford bell to the 4.0 with a custom plate? Or adapt the 435 to a 2.9/4.0 bell?

And now that I've got thru the first few pages, I'm subscribed! Good work!

Yea that's all I can say, one day at a time...

As he said I have the rule breaker adapter plate that I picked up from another member.

The holidays so far have been crazy, haven't had any time to finish up my garage work. But hopefully this week I can finish up and get back to work on the ploder.
 
Newb chimin' in here...mounting the ram as pictured will keep the front of the diff easily available for gear changes. Speaking as a guy with 'way too much experience setting up Danas, you'd want as little crap as possible in front of the opening. A honkin' big bracket welded to the long tube and angled over the cover would be really inconvenient to get a gearset around. The bracket being built into a very heavy duty diff cover should work just fine. The only thing I'd do additionally is use studs instead of bolts to mount the cover.

While this may be true, how often are the gears going to be changed? In theory once, correct? And if they did need changed later, an extra bracket is not going to put a damper on the progress.
 
If the bracket is made on the diff cover, then all that will be needed to do is pull the pin for the ram, swing the ram out of the way and then pull the cover, there will be no extra bracket to remove, since it will be part of the diff cover. And I second the stud kit for the diff cover...
SVT
 
If the bracket is made on the diff cover, then all that will be needed to do is pull the pin for the ram, swing the ram out of the way and then pull the cover, there will be no extra bracket to remove, since it will be part of the diff cover. And I second the stud kit for the diff cover...
SVT


Yup, but you don't even need to worry about using studs. Just conter sink the cover and use some grade 5 or better bolts.

Just to be a nerd (an early, after Christmas Morning Nerd, so my math is probably off)...



Cliffs: I got a little wordy early in the morning, but if your diff cover has at least 2 grade 5 bolts holding it on, they're not going to get sheared off.


.....Math below....

Shear load failure is figured at 60% of thetensile strength (Grade 8 is 120 ksi, and Grade 5 is 85 ksi).

So you take the area of the fastener (we'll assume 3/8" bolts) A=Pi*R^2 so that A = 3.14*(.1875)^2... A=.1104 sqin for a 3/8 Bolt.

60% of 120 ksi (proof load) = 72 ksi. (Grade 8)
60% of 85 ksi (proof load) = 51 ksi. (Grade 5)

So the Capacity in Shear for one 3/8 Grade 8 bolt = 72 ksi * 0.1104 or 7,948 lbs woth of shear per bolt. Grade 5 is 5,630 lbs per bolt.

Now figure the pressure of the ram, we'll use a Huge 2" Ram with the a maximum rating of 3,000 psi (most PS pumps put out around 1,500 - 1,800 psi max).

Ram Force = Ram Working area * Applied Pressure
Ram Force = 3.141 * 3,000
Ram Force = 9,243 lbs

Figure in 10 bolts per cover or so, and you've got a pretty healthy safety margin there. The only thing I would be worried about is that cover getting worked lose over time. With counter sunk holes, RTV, and properly toqued bolts it a non issue.

If my math's off :thefinger: Its good enough for this :icon_twisted:
 
Thats alot of math

have you used those formulas to find out how much force it took to shear off your highsteer arm studs? :icon_rofl:
 
Ok Ben, who did you copy this from :icon_confused:
SVT
 
Not this Ben

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk
 
Who brought the math in here, there will be none of that shit in here!























Because I suck at math :thefinger:
 

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