Stumble at idle

[Primer88]

It's my understanding that while not definitive, adding oil during the compression test pretty much rules out any compression loss from above the piston rings if the compression goes up.

 

[rrbrian222]

I remember seeing a tip for a quasi leak-down test without having to use/buy/rent a leak down tester. The guy simply took the shrader valve out of the end of the compression tester hose and then stuck it in the cylinder with compressed air running into the end where the compression gauge was. This setup makes it easy to tell where the leak is coming from, ie exhaust pipe, dipstick tube, throttle body, radiator.

At any rate, it would be a cheap and easy test to run just to confirm a ring/bore problem in cylinder #3. Plus, you could test the other cylinders the same way to verify the results and prove your theory.

Here's the video, the short-cut tip starts around around the 19 min. point:

 

[Primer88]

At this point I don't have the tools or location(<----this is the biggest problem) to fix either a ring or head problem. I will be in touch with a good engine builder/machine shop this week about tearing it apart and fixing whatever is wrong.

 

[rrbrian222]

It sounds like you're pretty confident in the ring/bore being the likely culprit (I guess I am as well, but I'd probably do a leak down test anyway). So in that case a junk yard motor might be the cheapest way to go compared to a machine shop. It all depends on what is available in your local area and also who you know in the engine repair business. Either way, if you don't have a good location/garage to aid in doing an engine swap it definitely makes things more difficult and costly.

Anyway, as far as motor swaps go, I believe any 95-01 2.3l or 2.5l should work since those years are all OBD-II, though I may be wrong on that....a simple search of the site should clear that up.

 

[Primer88]

A used engine is an option but I'd much rather have mine fixed if there is no major damage. I'll know more sometime this week.

 

[Primer88]

Looks like an engine overhaul is going to cost a minimum of $1400 not including pulling and transporting the engine to the machine shop. This blows.

 

[rrbrian222]

$1400. Forget that.

Here's a bit of info from the sticky at the top of this forum:

Posted by 510ranger:
lets see...-looks in chiltons guide for 91-99 rangers / explorers / mountaineers-

2.3L.......HP................Torque

1991......100 @ 4600.....133 @ 2600
1992......100 @ 4600.....133 @ 2600
1993......100 @ 4600.....133 @ 2600
1994......100 @ 4600.....133 @ 2600
1995......100 @ 4600.....133 @ 2600
1996......112 @ 4800.....135 @ 2400
1997......112 @ 4800.....135 @ 2400

2.5L
1998......117 @ 4500.....149 @ 2500
1999......117 @ 4500.....149 @ 2500

so yes, it changed in 1996, they upped the CR from 9.2 to 9.4:1
In '96 they also changed to a redesigned head with lighter (smaller stem) valves, valve springs and retainers. And reduced the size of the combustion chamber.


Added by pacodiablo:

2000 - 2001 2.5L engines make 119 HP at 5000 RPM and 146 ft. lbs. TQ at 3000 RPM.

As you can see, if you decided to swap down to a 2.3L, you really aren't losing much, as both displacements are basically dogs. I suppose if you got a hold of a '95 motor you could swap heads with your current motor (assuming your head is an innocent bystander in your engine problem) and gain a little bit with the slightly higher compression ratio.

And if you don't have a good location for an engine swap, I know there are guys on here who have rented storage units for this purpose.

Personally, if my 2.3L ever gets to the point where it needs a rebuild, I'd be looking for the best deal on a used motor I could find and swapping it. Then I'd rebuild my original motor as time and money allowed as I plan on keeping my truck for many years to come. Fortunately mine is still a baby at a mere 76,000 miles.

 

[Primer88]

I've been searching for used motors the last couple days. I can't find anything remotely good anywhere near here. Of course part of the problem is this is Alabama and more than half of the salvage yards here don't even know how to register their business with the yellow pages let alone google. I have found one possible used 2.5 but I'm waiting for a response on it's condition. I searched for everything from Explorer 5.0 to Ranger 2.3 with little luck.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I've been searching for used motors the last couple days. I can't find anything remotely good anywhere near here. Of course part of the problem is this is Alabama and more than half of the salvage yards here don't even know how to register their business with the yellow pages let alone google. I have found one possible used 2.5 but I'm waiting for a response on it's condition. I searched for everything from Explorer 5.0 to Ranger 2.3 with little luck.

have you tried car-part.com?

 

[rrbrian222]

have you tried car-part.com?

+1 on that. That's my first stop on the net if my local yard doesn't have what I need. Also keep an eye on craigslist if you aren't already.

Edit: Did a quick search for 2.5L's, it appears that Fagan Auto Parts in Piedmont, AL has several:

http://www.fagansautoparts.com

 

[Primer88]

Thanks for the tip. They didn't come up in any searches I've done.

Edit: I went and checked them out. The engines looked like total crap. I went by the shop I'm going to use to have the engine pulled and generally worked on and the owner was telling me how many problems he's had with used engines from the places around here, especially Fagans. I hadn't told him where I was just looking at engines either. He also has had a bunch of recent problems with Marshall re-manufactured engines as well which was also one of my options.

The price he gave me for the engine swap, replacing the timing belt and head gasket on the used engine wasn't far off the price I have for a complete overhaul of my current engine. I'm stuck for now and I think I'm going to just let the truck sit for a while until I get a job.

 

[1issueonly]

Stumbling 2.5

Read all the posts guys and I have had the same problem. I have replaced the MAF, AIT, CPS, TPS, new timing belt and used computer. I am leaning toward CKP as it is what the truck uses for time because there is no distributor. Gonna replace it this weekend and will let everybody know.

 

[Primer88]

Read all the posts guys and I have had the same problem. I have replaced the MAF, AIT, CPS, TPS, new timing belt and used computer. I am leaning toward CKP as it is what the truck uses for time because there is no distributor. Gonna replace it this weekend and will let everybody know.

have you done a compression test?

 

[Darren94]

You really should try and check the compression on the 4th cylinder. I just purchased a 98 B2500 and it idles rough and stumbles. (still drivable however and the problem only has effected the idle)

Look at the thread here http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115496
You will notice that both of the rear cylinders have low compression and the two fronts are fine.

 

[Primer88]

I will try the test on #4 again soon but #3 wasn't just lower than 1 and 2, it was very inconsistent as well. 1 and 2 were steady through repeated tests, and I am actually getting a misfire code for #3 and messed up compression in that cylinder would cause that code.