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torsion bar rangers, torsion keys vs crank?


cstishenko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
110
City
Kelowna, BC
Vehicle Year
2007
Transmission
Automatic
alright guys, i'm looking for a real world opinion on aftermarket torsion keys vs. Cranking stock keys.

i'm running 6400 shackles, with my tbars cranked and shocks lengthened to get some of my downtravel back. I am lucky enough to use my truck to its full potential offroad, but feel the ride is too rough.

who has gone from cranked stock keys to Aftermarket keys and did you notice your ride improve?
 
Ride will not be any better, in fact in some cases worse as the keys allow you to put even more preload on the torsion bars than you can with just cranking the stock keys.
 
thanks. That makes sense, because the t bars spring rate is the t bars spring rate, no matter what keys are attached to the end of it. Keys that allow you to crank more, increase your spring rate again. Bringing me to where I am now.

next question... How does ready lift get away with stating that their keys do not degrade ride quality?
 
no one said they have to be honest.. or maybe the guy that test drove the truck afterwords was a moron:dunno:
 
i cranked mine, the rides really rough but i also have muds. i ordered 3in torsion keys but idk if im gonna need longer shocks though
 
Has anyone gone from cranked T-bars to keys? I want to know if you were able to get the same lift with a softer ride.
 
It's not gonna change the ride.

To have the same amount of lift means backing the bolt off to whatever amount that would index the torsion bar the same as where it was cranked to with the stock key = same preload amount on the bar.

To get a better ride means lowering the lift height so your A-arms aren't sitting at such steep angles.
 
they are a waist of money. with your stock keys on and cranked your cv joints are pretty much maxed at full droop. there is no way they would improve ride quality
 
Remember - the keys go on the back end of the bar and have no affect whatsoever on helping correct the arms being at an extreme angle and the shaft angle being too much. You're better off cranking your stock keys, but not all the way so you're not wearing your front end out so fast.
 
the way i look at it is when you crank your stock keys your bars are under that much more preload and stress to give you 2" of lift. with keys you get lift but leave the bars relatively un twisted so i could see getting a longer life span out of them. its still going to ride rough due to the changes in the geometry but i personally think keys are better
 
the way i look at it is when you crank your stock keys your bars are under that much more preload and stress to give you 2" of lift. with keys you get lift but leave the bars relatively un twisted so i could see getting a longer life span out of them. its still going to ride rough due to the changes in the geometry but i personally think keys are better

From the ready lift site:

Our new keys are designed to provide the required lift without compromising the ride quality that often occurs when the factory keys are over-rotated. ReadyLift® keys are guaranteed never to affect the OEM ride and will not add more pressure on the stock suspension components.
 
TorsionDiagram.gif


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzFOUnciFRA&feature=related


Everyone you talk to that has gone from cranked stock keys to Ready Lifts or similar says that the ride got much better.

I don't mall crawl, there is'nt a day my truck is'nt dirty... So i'm looking to get my suspension travel, and spring rate back into offroad useable specs without going Superlift (too big)

I might order some and try it, for how cheap they are.
 
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I couldn't help chuckling when he started talking about Superduty trucks in that (very annoying) video (since when do they have torsion bars? lol )

If you want to buy into their claim, you're certainly free to give them your $$$, but simple mechanics say otherwise about their ride quality claim (if anything, it's their shock bracket that might have some affect on the ride vs. the keys... getting slightly longer shocks would accomplish the same thing).
 
yep, you are completely right. After thinking about it, there is little to no benefit to those aftermarket keys. I'll put the money towards 33's and a 3" BL first.
 
It looks like some clarification is needed on this subject. I own a 2008 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 2dr 4x4. I recently upgraded to a Readylift leveling kit. I used to have my front suspension set with a max torsion key crank and 31x10.5x15 tires. The torsion key crank left the front suspension too stiff and the tires rubbed. There are a few key tips when upgrading to a Readylift Leveling Kit. It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to upgrade to extended length front shocks during the install process. The reason being that when the new torsion keys are installed the stock shocks have to be extended unnaturaly to accomodate the 2.50 inch front lift. When the old shocks are maxed out like that there is nothing to allow them to actually compress and "shock" anything. As a side note, it also causes the bushings to become flattened which also can cause unnatural wear and risk damage to the mounting brackets. In short, using the old shocks will make the vehicle behave like a bobbal head toy. I recommend using the Rancho RS5000 1.25 to 2.25 inch extended shock part #RS5374. Once you install the new torsion keys, rancho shocks, and have an allignment done; the ride quality will be restored to stock quality and will neither be too stiff or too weak. If done correctly, the whole thing can be done for somewhere around $500 to $600 (if your not installing it your self). Advance Auto had a sale on the shocks when I purchased them for $56 a shock, basically half price. Some minor adjustments may have to be made to insure a secure and safe fit. Readylift recommends rechecking the torque settings after a month or so to insure nothing was installed incorrectly. Hope that helps.
 

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