My Bronco 2

[railman]

the tranny x-member just bolts to the link brackets....so the link brackets stay bolted to the frame while ya drop the tranny....

l8r, John

 

[4.0B2]

i like that idea.. that way i have a nice bash guard that will also be plated for skid plate... or something like that. my stock skid is kinda.....bent.

 

[dangerranger83]

Mine mounts are in front of my tranny xmember.

 

[4.0B2]

but 36" arms put its right at the trans mount... with the lower being all the way, it might not be in the way. idk.. idk really where the lower will be so.. we'll see.

i'm still playing w/ the idea of buying the arms again. idk.
i'm being told to check out

"DOUBLE EXTRA STRONG (XXH)
ALL WEIGHTS AND DIMENSIONS ARE NOMINAL

1-1/2" 1.900 OD 1.100 ID .400 Wall thick 6.408 Lbs per foot."

then drill tap it to the 1.25 fine threads for the joints.

 

[4.0B2]

so even for my 21st birthday-- i woke up at 7 to start working on the b2 lol. with the explorer tore down for paint.. see link in sig for that one..
i swapped out the 3 sensors i was getting the code for 1. tps 2. air charge 3. coolant temp sensor. the first 2 changed nothing.. but the third has seemed to help so far. we'll see, i still gotta clear out the original codes and then i'm gonna drive it more and see what happens.

 

[legoms013]

My buddy has the rusty's long arms on his jeep zj, and they are badass and are worth the money. In my mind buying those arms saves alot of headaches and is cheaper than buying all the stuff to fab them individually, b/c you can't think of every last thing and inevitably you will forget something, and will have to buy more parts in the end, raising your total cost up to higher than what it would have set you back to just go with rusty's arms in the first place. who cares if the mounts are integrating into the tranny cross member. just fab it as removable so that in case you need to drop the tranny you can do it without having to un-hook your radius arms.

thats my opinion, do what you want though.

keep up the good work

 

[4.0B2]

that's my plans right now.. unless i can figure out some more info on the XXH pipe.. its just as strong as DOM.. idk the prices tho. i'm probably just gonna go splurge and buy them

 

[dangerranger83]

I say go and buy them. Ya not as much pride as making them but safety first on all of this, something I didnt skimp on.

I will say i dont think i have seen a D30 SAS b2. What are your plans for lifting the rear?

 

[4.0B2]

add belltech's to what i have now.. and pray its enough! lol

eventually i wanna do the 63" swap.. for better flex and a little lift. might have to use the 63's and blocks. idk.. i honestly don't know what the best option is.

 

[Robert_1967]

Have the rear springs re-arched.

If you have a shop press you can use, it's real easy and really cheap.


Robert

 

[dangerranger83]

Doing the 63 swap on a b2 isnt easy as i saw the other day that the front leaf eye is where the body mount is at and alot of fabbing is needed to get it to work, not as easy to do as on ranger. The belltechs may give you 2 inches of lift...a min. of 4 inches is needed in the front to do the swap.

 

[4.0B2]

I'm gonna figure the rear out once I see exactly how much front lift I have. According to escort-- I should get around 6 inches of from lift. Somewhere around that..

 

[escort_gts]

Have the rear springs re-arched.

If you have a shop press you can use, it's real easy and really cheap.


Robert

How is this done? Have a press and an idea how to but not sure on the details...

 

[Robert_1967]

on your press, take two good size round bar (1.5 to 2") and them about 6 inches apart on the press, then very carefully lay the leaf spring across the two bars, and have the press push down on the leaf, do this all across the length of the spring, moving it about a inch from each press down, you might not see any difference on the first pass.

there was some pictures of how to do it on here or somewhere, I just remember seeing it on someone else post, they where re-arching a leaf for a old hot rod using a homemade press, I gave it a try on a friends shop press, and I got 2" lift from doing this.

I'll try to find some pictures and post them, just be sure to lay your leafs on their side and using a marker or something, and draw a line on the floor to show how much bend you have now and after on the springs, I used a marker and my garage floor, that way I could walk across it with out messing up my outline.



Robert

 

[Robert_1967]

Here is a link with a few picture about half way down, the only difference is where I used a plate on the press with two round bars, this person used the flat part of the press. he DE-arched them and then RE-arched them.
Also there is a lot of conversely about cold bending and heat bending, I have no idea in either, I can just tell you about MY pass adventures, first was my 87 Nissan, I lowered the back by heating the leafs up till they started to "relax" I drove it around for two years and had no problems, my second adventure is my BII, I re-arched the backs to get rid of the 2" blocks, and so far so good, it sits a little higher then I would have liked, but all and all I'm happy with it

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=409458


Robert