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Thanks everyone!

I am actually leaning towards running a built Dana 60 front and built 14 bolt rear with 44" boggers. Any bigger than that is a little ridiculous and will get crazy expensive, not to mention the extreme amount of custom fabrication needed to put Rockwells under my truck

This won't be for mud drags, it will be trailered to events like Vermonster 4x4 and Yankee Lake Truck Night. Straight up mud bogging. I'm probably looking at running tractor tires. I'm just seriously torn between going 1 ton vs. 2.5 ton. Neither way is cheap so to speak...so I don't wanna regret...

It's going to strictly be for mud bogging. I heard from a few sources that if you are gonna go any bigger than 42's, you should really go with 2.5 ton's...especially with a big block turning the wheels. 6.72 is perfect since I'll be running huge tires anyways. I just want to do things right the...

I plan on making my 96 B4000 a dedicated mud truck. The plans are at least 44" tires and a 460 BBF. Would 1 tons hold up or should I go with 2.5 ton Rockwells?

I did a MT (M5R1) swap on my 96 Mazda B4000 4x4. Transmission was from a 95 B4000 4x4, I have a 1996 MT ECU swapped in, as well as a MT Transmission harness. The speedometer does NOT work though, nor does the odometer. Both VSS's are new and tested good. Gauge cluster is new as well. Checked...

So ever since I did a 5 speed swap, my speedometer & odometer doesn't work. First I checked the fuses and all was good. Then I got new VSS's (Transfer Case & Rear End). That didn't do the trick. So then I borrowed my buddy's WORKING Instrument Gauge Cluster and that didn't work either. So now...

After doing an Explorer 8.8 swap and M5R1 manual trans swap, my speedometer no longer works. The tach DOES work. I checked all fuses and both speed sensors are new. What else can it be?

After swapping in the 5 speed M5R1, my speedo no longer works. All connections on the transfer case were made, so I don't see how that could be a problem. The column shift was left in the "Park" position before being removed for the swap. Would being in the "Park" position cause the...

So I have a 96' Mazda B4000 4x4, and I guess you can call it a Daily Driver, but I rarely drive far. So its more of a trail rig. I am interested in making it more capable offroad in general, not a dedicated mud truck or crawler. I'd love any criticism...good & bad! :beer: Here is what I have...

I swapped my 4r55e for a M5R1 and everything works great, including 4x4 High. But 4x4 Low does not work at all, no lights or anything. I am depressing the clutch pedal fully and the brake pedal as well. Are there more wires I need to jump for this to work?

I swapped a 1995 M5R1 into my 96 Mazda b4000 which originally had the 4r55e. I need to make a jumper to bypass the neutral safety switch. I was told this was between the pink wire and the tan wire w/ the red stripe. I am very mechanically inclined, but when I have to visualize wiring its like I...

I have my truck in neutral, foot on the brake, and clutch pressed down, and all i'm getting is a "Click". Hooked it up to a jumper box to eliminate the battery being low. Brand spanking new MT starter installed, so it can't be that. I am running the MT ECU so i don't understand how the truck...

Where can I get these? My truck is a 96 4.0. The Ford part # is E69Z-6379-A, but they are discontinued apparently and I cannot find an alternative. Thanks

I'm converting my 96 Mazda B4000 4x4 from auto to manual. I found an ECU from a 96 Manual Ranger, but it doesn't specify if its 4x2 or 4x4. Is there a difference? Or do the two have the same ECU? Thanks

My truck's automatic transmission (4R55E) is dead. I am stuck between buying a remanufactured transmission for $1300 or buying a 1997 Explorer w/ 5.0L v8 and 140k miles for $1000 OBO, and just swapping that drivetrain into my truck instead. My 4.0 v6 that is currently in my truck has roughly...

Where can I get the soft line that connects the hard line from the frame to the block on the axle? Its a soft line and I cannot find it anywhere. Thanks.

Well I have a 4" Rough Country lift installed from back when I was in high school. Long story short, a hole was punched in my d35 from the RC drop plate. This isn't a big deal since I was already planning on swapping in a d35 with 4.56's and a locker...BUT I don't want the same to happen to this...

Okay I've searched with no success. Where the heck can I buy another oil slinger. Its that giant shim on the pinion, and mine is...well ruined haha. Thanks!

I found a good deal ($1100) on a 96 exploder with the 5.0L. It has roughly 165k miles on it. The guy says it runs good. All I need is the drivetrain, and I'm really not looking to rebuild the motor, so I am wondering how long these 5.0L motors go for on average before giving out. Thanks