Gas prices are getting ridiculous and there doesn't seem to be much hope for the future. At the time I'm writing this, the price per gallon for regular grade gas in the U.S. is over $3.20 a gallon. Don't complain to much, if you were in the United Kingdom you would be paying $7.72 a gallon.

Realistically though, if you look at the history of gas prices, the prices were fairly steady from 1991-2000 and actually took a dive in 1999. A trend started in 2000 as the gas prices fluctuated but continually increased to their all time highs over the last (2) years. 

It's unlikely we'll see any great relief in gas prices. Maybe some short term drops, but the prices will likely hang in the $3.00 a gallon range and go up in the coming years. We're already reflecting to the days when you could get gas under $3.00 a gallon.

Why Is It So High?

The cost of crude oil now accounts for almost 70% of the gasoline pump price. World crude oil prices are at record highs due mainly to high worldwide oil demand relative to supply. Other factors contributing to higher prices include political events and conflicts in some major oil producing regions, as well as other factors such as the declining value of the U.S. dollar (the currency at which crude oil is traded globally).

Learn More: Gasoline prices are often the main topic of This Week In Petroleum.

Compare the gas prices in your area and others HERE. 

Fuel Economy And Changes For 2008:

As the 2008 model-year cars hit the lot, shoppers will notice a big difference — the EPA has changed its fuel economy testing methods to produce mileage estimates that reflect "real world" driving habits. The new testing process will significantly reduce estimated fuel economy — in some cases up to 25 percent.

The new EPA estimates for city and highway mileage will be listed on the window sticker of all 2008 model-year vehicles. The first day that 2008 models hit showrooms is January 2, 2007.

The previous EPA estimates were often criticized for being overly optimistic because they were based on the driving habits of the 1970s. The system was revised once, in 1985, but hasn't been adjusted since the 55 mph national speed limit was ended in 1987.

The new EPA fuel economy regulations consist of the following three elements:

• Revised testing procedures to more accurately reflect today's traffic conditions, driving habits and vehicle usage.

• New labeling for window stickers to provide more information that is easier to understand.

• The inclusion of SUVs and vans with between 8,500 and 10,000 pounds gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) in the testing process.

If both 2008 and a 2007 model-year cars are on your shopping list keep in mind that the fuel economy ratings can't be directly compared. The 2008 car will appear to get lower city and highway mileages. The city mileage will be about 12 percent lower than the 2007 estimate while the highway mileage will be approximately 8 percent lower than the 2007 estimate.

New Fuel Economy Labeling System:

The window sticker for 2008 and newer models will include the following changes:

• The new fuel economy ratings will be displayed in larger type.

• Until June 1, 2007, EPA ratings earned under the old system can be displayed, too, but only in fine print that is not bold.

• For all of 2008 and 2009 model years, the statement "These estimates reflect new EPA methods beginning with 2008 models," can be written across the top of the label. The two-year period reflects the maximum time that 2007 and 2008 vehicles (old and new methods) might sit on the same car lot at the same time.

• The phrase "EPA Fuel Economy Estimates" will appear in large type at the very top of the label, clarifying for the consumer that these are government ratings, which may increase their credibility. It could also take the heat off manufacturers, who are often wrongly accused by consumers of overly optimistic estimates.

• Estimated annual fuel costs will be prominently displayed, based on 15,000 miles per year, $2.80 per gallon fuel, and the combined fuel economy (the formula assumes a city/highway split of 55/45 percent). If a manufacturer recommends or requires premium, the fuel cost will be calculated accordingly.

• A slider representing the fuel economy continuum, showing the upper and lower limits of a vehicle class, along with a triangle showing where the vehicle in question fits on this continuum, is added.

• The vehicle classes needed to make segment comparisons have been expanded, as minivans and SUVs now get their own categories, instead of the former "multipurpose vehicle" all-in-one category.

• "Your actual mileage will vary" statement is added, with added verbiage stating "depending on how you drive and maintain your vehicle."

Fuel Economy Test History:

In the 1960s, emissions testing programs began using a city loop in the Los Angeles basin. The 11-mile test was later standardized to run on an indoor dynamometer, a machine for measuring horsepower, torque and other engine dynamics. The so-called Federal Test Procedure (FTP) was adopted by the EPA for the fuel economy ratings program that began in the '70s.

The FTP 11-mile loop, with an average speed of 21 mph and top speed of 56, was used to provide the first "city" mpg ratings. In 1974, a Highway Fuel Economy Test (HFET) was developed to measure highway fuel economy. This 10-mile loop was also performed indoors on a dynamometer with an average speed of 49 mph and top speed of 60 mph, in recognition of the fact that people often exceeded the current 55 mph national speed limit.

Together, the FTP and HFET formed the basis for the initial fuel economy labeling program.

In the early 1980s pressure began to build for a revamp of the system, because the ratings were found to be outdated. The complaints were that test speeds were too low, the dynamometer test doesn't account for temperature and no air conditioner data was collected.

In 1984, a new rule applicable to 1985 and later vehicles was adopted. No changes were made to the FTP and HFET tests themselves, as doing that would cause problems for the entrenched emissions testing protocol. Instead, the fuel economy ratings were given a "downward adjustment." FTP city results were reduced by 10 percent to determine the new city rating. The new highway ratings were determined by a 22-percent reduction in HFET results.

Those changes worked well at the time, when speed limits were still 55 mph. But this system is still in place until the end of the 2007 model year.

SUV & Vans (8,500 to 10,000 Pounds GVWR) Now Included:

For the first time, SUVs and vans between 8,500 and 10,000 pounds GVWR will have mileage estimates. Previously, all vehicles over 8,500 pounds GVWR were exempted from fuel economy testing and labeling requirements.

• These Medium-Duty Passenger Vehicles (MDPV) will become a newly defined class of vehicles.

• This will include the Ford Expedition EL, the Chevrolet Suburban and large vans — vehicles that previously were exempt and therefore had no fuel economy estimates on their labels.

• They also get included in Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) calculations, so all of those larger but thirsty vehicles will now weigh down the average.

• Large pickups will not be included, as they are not considered primarily passenger-carrying vehicles. As such, trucks between 8,500 and 10,000 pounds still won't get EPA labeling. This will change in 2011, when the new CAFÉ regulations including MDPVs take effect.

How Can You Improve Your Fuel Mileage?

How You Drive:

Believe it or not, how you drive affects your mileage and if you're not already doing so, you could quite possible improve your highway mileage by 2-5 mpg.

Two years ago I drove 500 miles to Tennessee with my kids on vacation. My car at the time had a mileage computer and I monitored my driving and mileage on the way down. I averaged 30 mpg on the trip down. On the way back I wasn't as cautious and drove how I would normally drive and got 27 mpg on the way home.

Here are some tips for increasing your mileage through driving:

1) Avoid rapid acceleration. Increase speed moderately so the engine isn't working as hard. They say a vacuum gauge can be a good mileage indicator and anyone who has ever used one knows the vacuum drops rapidly when you floor the gas pedal.

2) Short shift. Try shifting sooner to keep your RPM's down and your mpg's up.

3) Use momentum to your benefit. Once you get your vehicle up to speed it takes less fuel to keep it there, unless of course you're driving at wide open throttle. When you are climbing the hills, avoid trying to increase speed while climbing a hill, your engine is already working hard trying to overcome gravity. Accelerate before you get to a hill, and avoid applying more gas once you hit the hill if possible. Even if it means losing a little speed, as long as you're not disrupting traffic. 

4) Drive the speed limit. Keeping your highway speed at 55 mph can improve you gas mileage by as much as 25%, compared to 75 mph. Yes I know, 55 sucks. While each vehicle reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds), gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 60 mph.

5) Let your vehicle slow on its own. Anticipate stops ahead of you and just let off the gas, letting the vehicle slow itself down. Don't be on the gas as you approach the red traffic light trying to see how much fuel you can waste before throwing out the anchor to stop.

6) Avoid stop and go. If you could slow before getting to a red traffic light to give it enough time to turn green you won't have to stop and then use extra fuel to get going again. Ever push something heavy from a dead stop and see how much easier it is to push once you get it going?

7) Use overdrive. When you use overdrive gearing, your vehicle's engine speed goes down. This saves gas and reduces engine wear. You should consider this when selecting transmissions for your build ups.

8) Use cruise control. This really helps your miles per gallon a lot on long stretches of road. Avoid using it in hilly regions though because when the cruise kicks in climbing hills it tends to want to accelerate rapidly to maintain it's speed. See  #3 above about hills and momentum.

9) Don't use the air conditioning if you can avoid it. Air conditioning creates a drag on the engine and creates more work for it. Don't resort to cruising down the highway with the windows down though because that can cause a drag and reduce your mileage. If you have to choose between the A/C and open windows cruising down the interstate, use the A/C.

10) Don't let the vehicle sit and idle. If you know the vehicle isn't going to be going anywhere for a few minutes, shut it off.

Vehicle Maintenance:

1) Tire Pressure - You can improve your gas mileage by around 3.3 percent by keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires. Properly inflated tires are safer and last longer.

2) Synthetic Oils - Synthetic oils and lubricants will cause less friction in the engine and driveline. Stick to 90 weight gear lube unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise. If your engine requires 5W-30 use it. If your older engine requires 10W-40 and you can get away with 10W-30, great. The lighter oil will reduce friction loss in the engine.

3) Air Filter - Keep a clean air filter. If you do a lot of off-roading or driving on dusty roads, check your filter regularly. Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your car's gas mileage by as much as 10 percent.

4) Reduce Weight - The more an object weighs the more it takes to move it. Clean out all the garbage in your bed and anything else you don't need to be carrying to lighten the load and improve mileage. An extra 100 lbs of weight reduces a typical vehicles fuel economy by 1-2 percent.

Modifications:

1) Exhaust - Headers and/or a free flowing exhaust or cat-back system is generally the best bang for the buck as far as mods that will improve mileage. A good free flowing exhaust can add 1-3 mpg.

2) Ignition/Computer - Performance ignition wires, better spark plugs and chips/modules/programmers can add mileage.

3) Air Intake - Free flowing air cleaners/filters, cold air intakes and throttle body spacers can add mileage.

4) Tonneau Covers / Tailgate Nets - Some believe that the air passing over the cab of your truck goes down in to the bed and hits the tailgate causing more drag. Some will put their tailgates down or removed them, some have replaced their tailgates with a tailgate net and some have used a tonneau cover to cover the bed. Remember though that the heavier the cover, the more power and fuel you'll use to move it.

Modifications That Can Hurt Mileage:

1) Larger Tires - Bigger tires, especially those with soft compounds, have much more rolling resistance than those with narrow harder compounds. Make sure you're running your tires at the maximum recommended pressure on the highway. Consider less aggressive tires for use on the street and save your aggressive tires for the off-road. Although it may seem costly to have two sets of tires, it could likely be cheaper in the long run to run an all-terrain radial on the street and bias mud tire on the trail. The all-terrain will give you less rolling resistance and harder compound and have a longer life than the bias ply mudders. If you've ever run Boggers or Swampers on the highway with a daily driver, you know how fast they wear out. Consider how long the all-terrains will last with a 50,000 warranty and how much it's going to cost to replace those mud tires that won't last as long on the highway.

2) Anything that's going to force more fuel in to the engine such as high flow injectors, single plane intakes, increased fuel pressure, aggressive chips/programmers and camshafts.

Want To Check You Mileage?

Check out our online mileage calculator HERE.

The Top Rangers For Fuel Economy:

The compact Ford Ranger pickup truck was introduced to America in the midst of the gas crunch, roughly 25 years ago. Fuel efficient Mazda and Mitsubushi diesel engines were options in the earliest years of the Ranger. Ford also sold a battery-powered electric version, the Ranger EV, between 1998 and 2000.

So what are the top Ford Rangers when it comes to mileage? I looked at a chart and listed the top Rangers based on fuel economy. Remember that the standards for measuring economy changed for 1985 and again for 2008. Here they are:

2008-1995 Ford Ranger Fuel Economy Ratings:

1994-1983 Ford Ranger Fuel Economy Ratings:

Resources:

Check out these sites:

MPG-O-Matic

Fueleconomy.gov

Look up fuel economy for specific vehicles HERE.