Introduction

This article shows you how to replace the Double Cardan CV Ball in a Double Cardan Joint (Driveshaft).

What You’ll Be Replacing

Here’s what we’ll be replacing. About $30 at the local parts store scored me a ball in a socket, a spring, and a seal; hardly seems worth it but you have to do what you have to do! It’s also recommended that you replace both the u-joints at the CV end of the shaft during this project since they both have to come out anyway.

Double Cardan CV Ball

Start by removing the drive shaft (block tires, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery cable…you know the drill). MARK THE POSITIONS of the flange, center yoke, and drive line so they can be installed in the same position. This is crucial to maintain the balance of the drive line.

Double cardan joint

Remove the c-clips and end caps of the u-joints. The seal for the ball in my joint fell out after I got the u-joints out, but if yours is still whole, you’ll have to pry it out.

Remove the c-clips and end caps of the u-joints.

Turn the ball sideways in its socket and stick a big screwdriver or pry bar in the hole and pry it out. It’s in there tight, so it’ll take some “persuasion”. After the ball is out, use a chisel to dent the race inward, then pry it out.

Turn the ball sideways in its socket and stick a big screwdriver or pry bar in the hole and pry it out

Sand any burrs or rust off of the flange socket. Coat the socket with grease to aid in installation and to give the new ball a little extra lube after its installed.

Sand any burrs or rust off of the flange socket.

Place the new ball and race assembly in the flange socket. Make sure you leave the “condom” in during the installation process to keep the needle bearings from falling out.

Place the new ball and race assembly in the flange socket

Use a 15/16 socket and a hammer to drive the new ball/socket into place. Grease squirted out of a tiny hole in the bottom of my flange after driving the ball in. I guess I used enough grease!

Use a 15/16 socket and a hammer to drive the new ball/socket into place

Press in the new seal, I used a 27MM socket and hammer. Some may notice the u-joint is already installed on the flange in this pic. That’s because I almost forgot to install the seal before re-assembling the joint, whoops.

Press in the new seal

Install this u-joint first and clean up and grease the alignment stud and the big cup-shaped seal on the end of the drive line. CHECK YOUR ALIGNMENT MARKS before installing the joint!

Install this u-joint first

Install the second u-joint in the flange. Remove the rubber “condom” from the ball. Install the spring that comes with the ball kit into the end of the alignment stud. CAREFULLY (as to not knock over the needle bearings inside the ball) install the second half of the joint, making sure to line your marks up.

Install the second u-joint in the flange.

Install all your c-clips, then reinstall the drive line and that’s it! You now have a Double Cardan type CV joint good for another 100,000 miles!

Install all your c-clips

Contributor

This procedure was performed and documented by TRS forum member Dale Pearcy AKA ‘Wicked_Sludge’ who submitted it to the author to be published at The Ranger Station to help other Ford Ranger owners.

About The Author

Founder / Administrator at  | Staff Profile

Jim Oaks is the founder of TheRangerStation.com, the longest-running Ford Ranger resource online since 1999. With over 25 years of hands-on experience building and modifying Ford Rangers — including magazine-featured builds like Project Transformer — Jim has become one of the most trusted authorities in the Ford Ranger off-road and enthusiast space. In 2019, he was loaned a Ranger FX4 by Ford Motor Company to test and document across the TransAmerica Trail. Jim continues to inspire and guide Ranger owners around the world.