Story by BLOODBANE (Forum Member)

1994 Explorer Snorkel

(1) 27” piece 3” PVC
(1) 1-6” piece 3”PVC
(1) 3” piece 2” PVC
(1) cut to length 3” dryer flex tube
(1) 90 degree 3” PVC fitting
(2) 45 degree 3″ PVC fitting
(1) 6” dryer “B” vent top (Home Depot) (that’s what I was told it was. ARB has their top with filter for $54.00)



(1) 3 ½” Hole saw
Tin Snips or good shears

Extra Needed:

I used windshield Urethane for sealer (NAPA)
(1) junkyard stock airbox
(1) sheet lexan (Home Depot)


Take 3 ½” hole saw and make a cut in the junkyard airbox approximate center of the fender side (bottom portion)

Cut a piece of lexan to cover factory intake and use urethane (this stuff gets everywhere so use some good gloves or have lots of thinner/fingernail polish remover on hand. If it gets on your hands you wear it off, but its great stuff) to seal ( you will have to trim some of the stock intake tube away if you leave it in place, I choose to do this because of some of the sensors that are in it). Get ready to cut a big hole in the side of your Explorers fender. I choose to make the hole all the way through the fender, rather than try to route the tube between. Cut your 3 ½” hole in front of the blower motor.

Pull fuse block off clips and loosen some of the clips holding the wires to the fenderwell and move aside (don’t disconnect, there is enough room to get everything done. Test fit extra airbox (or your stock box if your using that) and eyeball length of flex tube you will need (s-shape from hole in airbox out through hole in fender. I left around 8 to 10″ extra that could be trimmed off later. Use Urethane to “glue” flex tube to the airbox.

Important note here, let the urethane set up good before doing a lot of tweaking, the stuff is strong but if it hasn’t had enough time to cure it will come apart.

You will probably need to do some trimming on the back mount for the airbox because of the tubing. I choose to just do away with it. Mount the airbox back into the stock location and route flex tube out the hole in fender.

I used the 2″ PVC in the flex tube just to help in getting it into the 3″ 90 degree PVC piece (sorry no pics) use the urethane for this (just squeeze the tubing around the 2″ PVC and glue it to it and then put the other end, as far as you can, into the 3″ 90 and use the urethane again. Push the assembly into the fender as far as you can.

Eyeball your 90 in the direction you want the snorkel tube to go ( I kind of eyeballed it to the pillar). Put the 6″ piece of PVC into the 90( don’t glue it leave it loose for now) add 1 of your 45’s to the 6″ PVC (again leave loose). Add the 27″ piece of PVC to the 45. I drilled one small hole into the top of the 27″ piece so I could use a self tapping screw to secure it to the pillar.

Put your last 45 on top of the 27″ PVC and adjust it to what looks like straight up. Adjust to fit your Explorer.
Use the self tapping screw( or drill a hole for the metal screw your using) to secure the assembly to the pillar. I choose to use the urethane on all the joints, rather than gluing them, because of the trees around here. With the urethane, you just cut it away and replace the section you need (the urethane is the same they use on windshield so it doesn’t get hard or brittle.

Reinstall your fuse block back into the stock clips.

Mount the dryer cap to the top of your 45 and use 2 self tappers to secure.

All measurements used are general (within a 1″ or 2 of what you will need. These figures worked for me, but may be a little off for yours (do a lot of measuring first, then make your cuts. I ended up buying 5 feet of 3″ PVC and 2 feet of 2″. I have a lot left over).

It will take a little more to completely seal your air intake and for more performance you will need to make a tube between the MAF and throttlebody. But this would stop almost all the water in fairly quick, deep water crossings.

Total cost for me including the holesaw and 50 self tapping screws was around $130.00. I think that’s pretty cheap compared to a hydrolocked engine.

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