Yet another weird 2.9 issue....

[Craig0320]

it wont.



the 2.9 is already a hi-rise.



put a rubber plumbing cap on the tb opening...



cut hole in top and build adapter....with a tin diffuser bridge over the 3-4 port directly below the carb.

you can do this with a roll of gasket material...some sheet metel...a hack saw...drill and some hardware...maybe a lil epoxy.


bridge the high pressure pump with a fuel filter and unplug it...


if i were a carb guy....cake job.

that or put a propane carb on the throttle body and run propane.


unfortunately....it wont ever run as good as efi.

and trouble shooting mechanical issues is a completely different set of headaches.

That is some good info right there.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh...should be obvious but you have to add a second cable to the throttle pedel for the carb unless your using a vacuum adv dizzy and ripping all the efi stuff out....but being a stick its just a matter of hooking it up, no drilling... not that its hard to do..

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Ok....back to business....

I actually got it to act up as i pulled in the driveway today...

Ran fuel pressure...

40 KOEO 35 Idle. Good.

Ran vaccuum, steady 18/19lbs or HG or whatever. Good.

Pulled codes...heres where its interesting....

It passed the KOEO test.

In the memory i got a code 87 "fuel pump primary circuit intermittent"

KOEO...
Got a code 13 (idle to high, no shit EEC IV i had to open the screw so youd somewhat run)

And then 41 "O2 sensor lean, sensor not switching" (Brand new Bosch. O2)

Adsm, i couldnt find that wire you were talking about on the back of the head. Is it only visable from underneath? And would it cause that code?

I threw on a new coil for shits, couldnt get it to act up but who knows.

Input?

 

[Paulos]

Sounds like the fuel pump relay is cutting out at times. The primary voltage is the coil voltage that closes the relay. I would think this would cause your lean condition giving you code 41. I'd check the relay connector and swap the relay if you have another on hand.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Sounds like the fuel pump relay is cutting out at times. The primary voltage is the coil voltage that closes the relay. I would think this would cause your lean condition giving you code 41. I'd check the relay connector and swap the relay if you have another on hand.

Its a relativly new relay. But ill check the connector.

 

[bobbywalter]

Ok....back to business....

I actually got it to act up as i pulled in the driveway today...

Ran fuel pressure...

40 KOEO 35 Idle. Good.

Ran vaccuum, steady 18/19lbs or HG or whatever. Good.

Pulled codes...heres where its interesting....

It passed the KOEO test.

In the memory i got a code 87 "fuel pump primary circuit intermittent"

KOEO...
Got a code 13 (idle to high, no shit EEC IV i had to open the screw so youd somewhat run)

And then 41 "O2 sensor lean, sensor not switching" (Brand new Bosch. O2)

Adsm, i couldnt find that wire you were talking about on the back of the head. Is it only visable from underneath? And would it cause that code?

I threw on a new coil for shits, couldnt get it to act up but who knows.

Input?

what are the catch codes on the pcm?

this is an egr setup right? what condition is the exhaust in?

it should be an hego system.


the wire he referred to is the o2 ground. it is important.

you can put as many o2 sensors in there as you care to buy.

if the power to the o2 heater isnt there or the wiring is otherwise bad its not going to run right.


throttle voltage is important and if its hanging too high will open the egr at the wrong times and cause these stumbles ect...when i said for you crack the throttle to cheat its implied the system is going to be a douchebag...but like i said before i would just drive it...did you make sure the throttle voltage stayed at 1 or so at idle? sometimes you have to waller it a little..


if the hego is not working right nothing else is going to work right.

it has to have power and be hot...even if it is working correctly, the exhaust if too high flowing or leaky can still run too cold for it to be effective.


ssooooooooo

heres your sign.
.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I do have a rather massive exhaust leak between the H pipe and the cat. But thats after the sensor....

Not sure what you mean by "catch codes"?

When i tested the TPS i used a digital volt meter. I read an analog one works better cause you can see "dead" spots in the TPS...could that be throwing shit off? It did have 1V or a bit less with the throttle shut.

How exactly would i check the O2 for power? I know its only 3 wires but is it 12 volts? 5? Which wires to probe??

 

[bobbywalter]

so leaky... well...

sometimes it makes a difference.

for o2 content issues... upstream leaks make the issue...

but, the o2 sensor also needs heat to work correctly.

it could be a o2 switching issue...actual fuel issue...leaky exhaust.....or a combination of all...or just shitty grounds...

41 in this case i suspect as possibly the pcm hitting its wall to add fuel and not seeing the correct data from the o2's and gets pissy about it.

not running out of fuel literally, just hitting its program limit to add fuel. if the pump starves it you can actually see the rich limit. just depends.


the eec code numbers are what i meant for catch code......make sure they match your application. it can be detrimental obviously.


some of these have the power circuit inline with a fusible link from ignition power. the link gets popped and the heater never works and they run like shit.

i dont have an 87 deal handy...but the one on my 93 explorer engine in my b2 has the 4 wires and the 150 harness sitting there is a 3.. the 150 is an 88 so its likely the same as the ranger...


the three on the harness side of the truck harness is

grey/yellow for ignition power...this is typical of all 80's and changes to purple/orange for 90's.

one starts black turns orange/blk and is ground like all ready mentioned...

green/purplish goes to the eec.


whether or not the connection is good is a question as well.









to hell with it all.

do it.......dooooooo it......

 

[adsm08]

And then 41 "O2 sensor lean, sensor not switching" (Brand new Bosch. O2)

Adsm, i couldnt find that wire you were talking about on the back of the head. Is it only visable from underneath? And would it cause that code?

I threw on a new coil for shits, couldnt get it to act up but who knows.

Input?

Yes, it certainly could. The wire I told you to look for is the O2 sensor's signal ground. Without it the computer can't see the signal coming back from the sensor.

On all of my various 2.9s is has been bolted to the back of the passenger side head, not easily visible, but I have always been able to stick my hand back there and find it.

 

[Paulos]

You could look at the schematic I attached to my last post...

 

[bobbywalter]

That is some good info right there.

thats the cheap hillbilly bob way to do it.



they sell carb conversion kits for all of the colognes and better intakes for the earlier colognes.



so i am shocked he does not put a carb on it...his favorite carb jetted down would work ok.


theres ported 4bbl sohc mustangs with spray getting crazy out there.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

You could look at the schematic I attached to my last post...

I did. But truthfully i couldnt make heads or tails from it.

On all of my various 2.9s is has been bolted to the back of the passenger side head, not easily visible, but I have always been able to stick my hand back there and find it.

Thats what i did. But maybe i didnt reach back deep enough. Not alot of room back there.

How much power should go to the O2?
What should be going back up the purple ECM wire for voltage?
I wonder if O reiley sold me a bad O2? I had no O2 codes with the old O2 sensor.

Another thing i just thought of...

My EGR pipe is broken. Its haphazardly fixed with a 1/2 inch galvanized pipe coupler (it doesnt fit on it tightly).

Is it possible the engine is sucking to much fresh air thru that? Since it runs great when the motors cold (pre EGR)?

 

[bobbywalter]

upstream o2 invasion. thats a big various exhaust leak.



vehicle power minus whatever the voltage drop its having these days..to the o2 heater


0-1 volt is typical possible range of the o2 feedback. it actually generates voltage. heat and o2 content determine that. unless there is current leakage it gets no power from the heater circuit.



the ground wire is a ground wire.













but a single shitty intermittent injector can do this as well.




or the o2 is just not plugged in all the way. or it got messed up....or its pinned wrong....or or or or






















orrrrrrrrrrrrrr
















or

do it.

 

[fastpakr]

I'm picturing three Weber DGV's in a line, attached to the lower intake.

 

[RangerStrom]

Did you save your original O2 sensor? I was fighting the same symptoms for over six months. Mine ran fine until it reached temp, then it would buck, run lean just like it was running out of gas. Then after a minute or so it ran fine again. I tried everything and the problem would not go away. I changed the fuel filter, the in tank pump, the temperature sending unit, the regulator, re grounded the computer and nothing helped. That is until I put the old O2 sensor back in and I never had the problem again.

In hindsight my problem developed after I put in a new O2 sensor I bought from ebay.

I have since put in a new Bosch O2 sensor and everything is still working well.