Yes... I'm asking about a Dana 30.

[dangerranger83]

Mine will be street friendly too, I dont have a place to go mudding but I dont have time for that. I'll go take a look at that thread in the tech. library.

 

[Mudhound]

If you can free the time, I would love to suggest that you go checkout Redbird SRA. It is a bit of a drive for me, but I thought that it was worth the trip. It is alot like here in Ky where I get to go wheeling without even leaving my yard, so you would have an idea of the kind of stuff that you can use a SAS for as oppossed to the TTB stuff.

 

[NMB2]

I also saw the same guy (TJ) break a D60 axle joint the same way, on 33s.

you dont have to lie to kick it.

 

[Mudhound]

Why do you say that he is lying? I have seen D60 parts blow with small tires, good traction, and the wrong moment for everything to decide to work together, i.e. good traction, pinned tire, and too much throttle. Big ol' BOOM. Makes me laugh, then cuss the guy or girl because they are usually like " Oh, well. I guess that I need to go ahead order those super-duper, made-from-unobtainum, over priced parts." Morons need to learn to drive.......

 

[NMB2]

because. He didnt break a good D60 wheeljoint with a 33" tire. It didnt happen.

 

[Explorin94]

Alright.....Where to start? I just finished a Dana 30 SAS swap into my 88 Ranger. The axle came from a 92 Wrangler which was a HP 30. The axle was free, it had a 3.07 gear and complete from steering componenets to the calipers and rotors. I even had the front leafs from this jeep. I swapped a 4.10 gear into it from another Wrangler with a HP 30 and a 4 cyl. Along with the 4.10 gear I have a power trax locker in the carrier. I had it out for the first time on Sunday and didn't have one problem with it. I am running 35 inch Durango XTR's.

 

[dangerranger83]

Alright.....Where to start? I just finished a Dana 30 SAS swap into my 88 Ranger. The axle came from a 92 Wrangler which was a HP 30. The axle was free, it had a 3.07 gear and complete from steering componenets to the calipers and rotors. I even had the front leafs from this jeep. I swapped a 4.10 gear into it from another Wrangler with a HP 30 and a 4 cyl. Along with the 4.10 gear I have a power trax locker in the carrier. I had it out for the first time on Sunday and didn't have one problem with it. I am running 35 inch Durango XTR's.

What brand shocks do you all run and gas or fluid? You have a build thread of the swa so I can look at it? I'm trying to look at D30 SAS in Gen 1 rangers.

 

[Explorin94]

What brand shocks do you all run and gas or fluid? You have a build thread of the swa so I can look at it? I'm trying to look at D30 SAS in Gen 1 rangers.

The front shocks are Pro-Comp ES1000's (oil I think?). I took the factory coil buckets off the frame and used a shock towers/brackets from a 2003 F250. I don't have a build thread (but wish I did now). I have $500 in the truck and another $190 in the parts and bolts. I wanted to do it with a budget in mind and I think I accomplished it. The front-end has been changed over to a 89-92 sheet metal and plastic as my 92 had cut-out flares already on them. I'll get pics posted as soon as possible with detailed pics on what I did.

 

[dangerranger83]

I'm told gas is the way to go when it comes to shocks. I might go with procomp but not sure yet. The more pictures the better, people leave out the cross member that has to be re-made the one that the D28 or D35 control arms hook to. So far it has costed me under $100 bucks to do this so far. I need to find Jeep shocks that have the same upper bolt mount as a rangers and the bottom part that mounts to the D30, any help there? I just found out my D30 came out of a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 cylinders if that helps, has the CV joints.

The cheaper it costs me, the more info I can get, the better. Any and all help is welcome!!!!

 

[Explorin94]

My 30 is leaf sprung.

 

[dangerranger83]

I know that yours is leaf sprung, but one thing that would be helpful is the cross member that has to be re-made the one that the D28 or D35 control arms hook to. If you leave it out whether you use it or not, is still a needed thing to help brase the frame. The drive shafts path will go right through this member and thats why I'm asking about it and how people re-designed it. How much lift did you get and how long did your drive shaft have to be leigthened?

 

[Explorin94]

I know that yours is leaf sprung, but one thing that would be helpful is the cross member that has to be re-made the one that the D28 or D35 control arms hook to. If you leave it out whether you use it or not, is still a needed thing to help brase the frame. The drive shafts path will go right through this member and thats why I'm asking about it and how people re-designed it. How much lift did you get and how long did your drive shaft have to be leigthened?

I never remade any part of the frame. I got rid of the radius arm mount, and the mounts for pivots under the engine. The driveshaft passes through no part of the frame anywhere. I had to lengthen the front shaft 5 inches and the rear had to be shortened 5 inches, plus pieced together from various different shafts. Over all I ended up with right at 8 inches of suspension lift.

I am trying to post pics but need to figure out how to resize them. If anyone can help me do that it will be appreciated.

 

[dangerranger83]

You can resize them on photobucket.com, thats who hosts my pictures that I put on this site. When you upload them to photobucket you can choose how big you want them to be at the time of uploading them or in the settings. I know the front drive shaft isnt going to pass throught the frame, I was talking about the radius arm mount but if your not using one then I would guess I dont need mine either or to re-make one. That helps me out.

 

[Explorin94]

You're not that far from me. You should take a road trip.

 

[Roger]

you dont have to lie to kick it.

Now that is harsh. I've seen plenty of things break. But some folks really don't knowwhen to get off the throttle.