Would like Alburn Locker ected input

[haulasswithclass]

I just in stalled an Alburn Ected locker in my dana 44. Has anybody used one? Mine still pops a little Alburn told me it was just the limited slip breaking in. I would like to know how everyones is holding up. Any input would be great?

 

[MikeWild]

I'm running them front & rear in my ranger and so far I'm really impressed with them. The one down side is that I tend to get a little too excited with the skinny pedal and have blown up 2 hubs in the process, but the hubs are cheapies ford/warn/milemarker/noname type. I'm thinking of either zap strapping a 2x4 on the back side of the gas pedal , or doing the dana 44 knuckle upgrade in order to have stronger premium hubs. But so far they've performed flawlessly off road.

 

[4x4junkie]

Could always just slap the Jeep hubs on there too...

As for the ECTED, I've seen a few times where they'll still slip while "locked", but work fine in a majority of situations. They are not a true locker like an ARB or OX however (there are no locking pins or clutch splines in the ECTED to solidly lock it).

 

[meatheaded nucklebuster]

Any opinions on the aubern ected vs the detroit e-locker. the difference is the e locker works as an open diff when not engaged wheras the ected is lim slip like said above. I was thinkin this might help tire life on the street (the open diff) but i dont have any experience running lockers. oh and i think e-locker is a bit cheaper but not much.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

The e locker is a TRUE locker when engaged, the ECTED is not a TRUE locker when engaged, it is simply a very tight limited slip. It has no mechanical locking mechanism, just a ball ramp set up that tightens up the limited slip clutches.

E locker over the ECTED any day of the week.

 

[meatheaded nucklebuster]

Thanks man thats what i wanted to know

 

[MikeWild]

Could always just slap the Jeep hubs on there too...

Been there, done that, and kerpow! (but that was on my exploder)

 

[4x4junkie]

Been there, done that, and kerpow! (but that was on my exploder)

The Warn pt# 37780 hubs? (these would not be "cheapies" like you mention in your post)

 

[MikeWild]

not sure of the part#, but the lock out tabs said warn across it.

 

[4x4junkie]

Unless you specifically bought the pt# 37780 Jeep replacement hubs, you had pt# 29071 hubs. Those tend to break if you breathe on them.

 

[Will]

Yeah, you would know the difference. The Jeep hub is twice the weight--feels like steel in comparison. I have not broken the body of one and I plow snow and have had a locker for years up there.

 

[MikeWild]

Well after I burn through all 6 of my used replacement hubs, I'll give a set of those a try!

Are all the internals still the same, just a matter of slipping the hub on, or do I need to replace anything?

I'm rather fond of the hub being the weak spot as it's fairly easy to repair, I wonder where the weak spot would be with stronger hubs on there, I'd possibly be changing u-joints or stub shafts more frequently.

 

[Will]

Yeah, the hub makes a good fuse. But for me, my breaks started happening do to binding and shaft interference that happened before the tire. I've made myself weary preaching on checking your yokes and axe beam window for interference. Once I got my parts to stop knocking into each other, I stopped snapping expensive bits.

 

[4x4junkie]

Hub fits right on (read here).