Work In Progress

[bobbywalter]

keeping the rbv case via oem componants requires a certain bell housing on certain manuals or a c4/c5 setup with the 25 spline output and 5 bolt ext housing.


i have seen an extension housing on a r2 before that had the 5 bolt ext housing though. i originally thought it was oem but now i dont think so.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Umm motor, Trans/T-case you can pick up for like 1,500 with wiring and that would be a rough estimate. Then you're lookin at 200-300 for drive shafts. I've heard you can run a 4.0 radiator and it will work but I haven't talked to anyone that's used one. Otherwise a becool rad is like 400. If you're handy with a torch and welder you can build your own crossmember for the trans. You might be able to find a wrecked truck for under a grand and have everything you need then it would be under 1500. But it has to be a year newer than your truck and you have to have all the stock smog equipment that came on the donor motor.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Oh I recommend using a np205 cuz it's smaller than the Bw1356. And if you can make a small body lift which will help tremendously with clearance for the bell housing bolts.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3842468134.html
See if this one will work.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

keeping the rbv case via oem componants requires a certain bell housing on certain manuals or a c4/c5 setup with the 25 spline output and 5 bolt ext housing.


i have seen an extension housing on a r2 before that had the 5 bolt ext housing though. i originally thought it was oem but now i dont think so.

If I get a complete donor then ill just use what's in it. Just figured it might be cheaper to use what I already have.

Umm motor, Trans/T-case you can pick up for like 1,500 with wiring and that would be a rough estimate. Then you're lookin at 200-300 for drive shafts. I've heard you can run a 4.0 radiator and it will work but I haven't talked to anyone that's used one. Otherwise a becool rad is like 400. If you're handy with a torch and welder you can build your own crossmember for the trans. You might be able to find a wrecked truck for under a grand and have everything you need then it would be under 1500. But it has to be a year newer than your truck and you have to have all the stock smog equipment that came on the donor motor.

I figured about $2k to get everything ready to roll again. I can weld okay but I plan to improve my skills with other small projects before I tackle a project like that. I thought the rule was same year or newer but I could be wrong. I will more than likely put a body lift on to help clear everything. I also heard the np205's are pretty sought after when making doublers because they are pretty tough.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3842468134.html
See if this one will work.

That's a clean lookin rig

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Yeah 205's are but I found several after I had settled for a 1356 lol. If you gather everything before the swap then you could take the time to find one.
Another route would be to find a wrecked f-150 and put your cab on that frame. I thought about doin that several times. I figure all you'd need to do is build new body mounts, adapt the steering shaft and get a new radiator. But idk for sure.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

I could but I would still have to sas it because it would most likely be ttb still, also the frames are longer.

 

[bobbywalter]

well. i have done many types of swaps with rbv's.

for sure the most cost effective way to do a swap in any type of project from sami to 32 fords is with a complete drivetrain fan to t case outputs in a 4x4. whether its a powerstroke, modern hemi, modern gm ls, or typical 351 setup from an f series or bronco or 302 from an explorer...or a ecoboost from a modern 150. they are literally all the same to me.


in general i never recommend a 205 by itself. all con with that for a street driven rig. the low range sux and they are heavy and use a bit more fuel in the general. where they shine is when going with a doubler as they easily allow twin sticking and almost any t case can be mated to one pretty cheap all things considered.. if you dont need twin stick you dont want a 205 in a small tire driver. small tire being relative with 37 being small.



i have a fat bastard slobbering nutless diesel in my truck that is a little bit bigger then a 302......like maybe 460 bigger. i can still flat belly a np208.


the np 208 is a decent case and is easily adapted and made fixed yoke and has a 2.61 low verse the 1.96 low of the 205. it is real light which is good and bad. typical small blocks take a bit of time to fawk one up, and like the 205 they are pretty cheap and easy to rebuild and maintain.



this is my setup compared to a typical small block...its snug, but likes it under the hood of my ranger.....it seems happy in there anyway.

this is my t case, its a fixed yoke ford 208 with a chevy 32 spline input shaft and a custom thickness clocking ring that i typically use to install jeep 208 cases behind 302 or 351 fords. it is wide but not huge like a 1356 or 45..

this is the same truck when i run a nice mild 300 hp 302 in it with a jeep np 208 t case. note it is small and fits like it was made to go there and allows tru center of the powertrain. which tru-center is not oem either btw.

the cool thing about the 205 and 208 is the damn things work on any domestic typical truck trans through the 90's ... i can pop a ford dodge or chevy 205 on here with just a input shaft swap as long as they are 6 holers.

so its a non issue whether you use driver or passenger side drop axles....or whatever engine you choose.


the small jeep case is hard to find these days, but they are out there and still pretty cheap. but like you see here, the dirt cheap and abundant big ass ford 208 cases can be made to work with about anything you can think of.


one thing i like about the 4l80 that mine is hanging off of is that you can custom cut the all slip van 2wd units to fit whatever you want to do...if you have a solid or fresh 2wd unit you just need to find a 400 4x4 adapter to make it a 4x4 and they are pretty damn tough transmissions. the one i just replaced is the record holder for me of any transmission ever.






so dont limit yourself to a nutless typical 302 swap when there is so much shit out there unless your some sort of purist.

in that case hiway tune the 570 holley like homeboy is running and copy him to a tee, because thats the best 35 in tire mpg i have ever heard of and worthy of repeating.



keeping your factory t case is around a 500 dollar deal with advanced adapters in generl but that is doable as well so keep that in mind.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

well. i have done many types of swaps with rbv's.

for sure the most cost effective way to do a swap in any type of project from sami to 32 fords is with a complete drivetrain fan to t case outputs in a 4x4. whether its a powerstroke, modern hemi, modern gm ls, or typical 351 setup from an f series or bronco or 302 from an explorer...or a ecoboost from a modern 150. they are literally all the same to me.


in general i never recommend a 205 by itself. all con with that for a street driven rig. the low range sux and they are heavy and use a bit more fuel in the general. where they shine is when going with a doubler as they easily allow twin sticking and almost any t case can be mated to one pretty cheap all things considered.. if you dont need twin stick you dont want a 205 in a small tire driver. small tire being relative with 37 being small.



i have a fat bastard slobbering nutless diesel in my truck that is a little bit bigger then a 302......like maybe 460 bigger. i can still flat belly a np208.


the np 208 is a decent case and is easily adapted and made fixed yoke and has a 2.61 low verse the 1.96 low of the 205. it is real light which is good and bad. typical small blocks take a bit of time to fawk one up, and like the 205 they are pretty cheap and easy to rebuild and maintain.



this is my setup compared to a typical small block...its snug, but likes it under the hood of my ranger.....it seems happy in there anyway.

this is my t case, its a fixed yoke ford 208 with a chevy 32 spline input shaft and a custom thickness clocking ring that i typically use to install jeep 208 cases behind 302 or 351 fords. it is wide but not huge like a 1356 or 45..

this is the same truck when i run a nice mild 300 hp 302 in it with a jeep np 208 t case. note it is small and fits like it was made to go there and allows tru center of the powertrain. which tru-center is not oem either btw.

the cool thing about the 205 and 208 is the damn things work on any domestic typical truck trans through the 90's ... i can pop a ford dodge or chevy 205 on here with just a input shaft swap as long as they are 6 holers.

so its a non issue whether you use driver or passenger side drop axles....or whatever engine you choose.


the small jeep case is hard to find these days, but they are out there and still pretty cheap. but like you see here, the dirt cheap and abundant big ass ford 208 cases can be made to work with about anything you can think of.


one thing i like about the 4l80 that mine is hanging off of is that you can custom cut the all slip van 2wd units to fit whatever you want to do...if you have a solid or fresh 2wd unit you just need to find a 400 4x4 adapter to make it a 4x4 and they are pretty damn tough transmissions. the one i just replaced is the record holder for me of any transmission ever.






so dont limit yourself to a nutless typical 302 swap when there is so much shit out there unless your some sort of purist.

in that case hiway tune the 570 holley like homeboy is running and copy him to a tee, because thats the best 35 in tire mpg i have ever heard of and worthy of repeating.



keeping your factory t case is around a 500 dollar deal with advanced adapters in generl but that is doable as well so keep that in mind.

The reason I'm wanting the 302 is that around here they are are the easiest to find out of the v8's and v6's are the same price so why not go bigger? Diesels would be ideal but they are rediculous expensive. Tcases are easy to find pretty no matter what kind of setup. It really depends on what I wanna run. Also another key factor is how small of a budget I can work with.

 

[bobbywalter]

cheapest and easiest a 302....



302 it is i can do those in my sleep.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh...and for a wheeler, i would never suggest a diesel.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

cheapest and easiest a 302....



302 it is i can do those in my sleep.

Well if that's the case ill probably be askin you a bunch of how does this thingy go in that doodad type questions. I've put v8's in race cars but that's easy because its built around the motor. I don't know how that know how is gonna help with stuffin one into a ranger.

 

[90jurassic2]

Why wouldn't you use a diesel for a wheeler? Your's seems to hold up..

 

[bobbywalter]

Why wouldn't you use a diesel for a wheeler? Your's seems to hold up..

its a primary driver.....my main vehicle. i drive allot of miles.

its also a wheeler/snowmobile/icefishing shanty....and so much more.

so its much cheaper to drive with a diesel.



for just a wheeler, diesels suck. too noisy and stinky and more vibration then necessary.