SEATING the flare nuts on new stainless hard lines...

[fixizin]

you will want a die set for stainless to make flares....preferably a hydraulic unit. mostly i use a type of compression fitting adapting to a/n or jic.....and even that is a pia...

for brake line flares i have something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/LainKeen-Professional-Flaring-Degree-Single/dp/B0BBTFTGZ9/?tag=959media-20

That thar is fer profession-uls who duz a LOT of brake lines... I'll email AutoCalzone Corporate and suggest they add it to their "Loaners" lineup!

 

[fixizin]

OUCH!... So of course pulling 15 inches of vacuum is not going to stress anything, but once I got most of the air out on all 4 corners, and put pressure to the pedal, I got quite a stream running down my differential... but I didn't panic, I noticed the fittings on the drum backplates were bone-dry, and it hit me that that center wye-block is suspended up on that clip, and so I got "skeered" when I saw it flexing and wussed out (and here I was worried about OVER-tightening... with a 5" wrench, lol)... anyway, the handle on my 1/2"-drive ratchet filled the gap, so I backed off each flare-nut a 1/4 turn, then cranked down on it as hard as I had with the wheel ends, and voila', "toit" and dry... drove it around town, solid... will check again in the daylight.

THANKS for all the experienced input! #StainlessBrakeLinesFTW!

 

[rumblecloud]

if you have stainless brake lines....you have the reason.

Imma start making up reason to get stainless brake lines...

 

[fixizin]

Finito! (for now)... all fittings bone dry, master cyl res level hasn't dropped a single micron, stiff sponge-free pedal action, thanks again!

We use stainless lines on the aircraft I work on. I've yet to see one fail form too much tightening and reinstalling. Other units and other shops denting or creasing the crap out of them is more often than not the reason we end up replacing most lines. But, those are single flair instead of double. The same principle applies though.

Niiiiice... good to hear. Still, I may go with the copper-nickel stuff for the long fore-and-aft run, due to ease of bending and flaring... but WHERE to get that wraparound spring-guard stuff? Wally World seems to be the cheapest--BY FAR--for both the line and the "rock guard" to go around it!