Won't start; Machine gun clicking

[futon]

Over the past two weeks or so, I've been hearing a couple loud clicks before the engine turns over while starting. I chalked it up to the cold temperatures, and didn't worry about it.

Today, all I'm hearing is that click, repeatedly. It doesn't sound like the starter is trying to turn the engine over at all. The accessories all come on, and the click is loud and consistent, which I take to mean that the battery, and possibly the alternator are fine.

Some rushed internet searching this morning suggests an issue with the positive cable; that corrosion may be preventing the alternator from returning amperage back to the battery, or some such.

I've attached a picture of the cable. I haven't stripped back the cover to take a closer look, but I imagine I'll find evidence of more corrosion when I do.

Is this sounding about right, so far? As (bad) luck would have it, I forgot my wallet at home this morning, and only have about $20 on me. I'm thinking of picking up one of these, but don't want to waste the money if it's not likely to be the cable:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...ngle-repair-splice-0110950p.html#.Vpz-D1Rpl7Q

Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

 

[adsm08]

A rapid clicking when trying to start usually means time for a battery. It's the starter relay dithering as it gets and then looses power.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Just clean it.

Probably the starter relay clicking from low voltage.

Have your battery checked, this brutal cold weather (at least where I am at) is hard on batteries.

 

[RonD]

2009 is now at the 7 year old mark, unless you have a new battery I would say battery needs to be replaced.

5 years is average car battery life, but 7 years is not to unusual with newer battery technology.

I would get one of these: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/battery-terminal-brush-0251070p.html#.Vp0Ye1I-J3U

Clean up that terminal and also do the negative terminal.
Then get price on new battery

 

[adsm08]

Also, if you are going to the trouble of cleaning up your terminals, and the expense of a new battery, don't cheap out, spend the extra $2 on those anti-corrosion pads. They keep the acid fumes that get out of the seam at the post away from the cables. That's what causes the corrosion.

 

[futon]

Thanks, guys. I'll likely pick up a new battery tonight.

Before the clicking started, the engine occasionally wouldn't turn over until the second attempt (generally always on the first go in the morning, then occasionally NOT on the first go later in the day). In retrospect, that's probably the first clue the battery was almost done.

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks, guys. I'll likely pick up a new battery tonight.

Before the clicking started, the engine occasionally wouldn't turn over until the second attempt (generally always on the first go in the morning, then occasionally NOT on the first go later in the day). In retrospect, that's probably the first clue the battery was almost done.

Junkyard batteries are an inexpensive alternative. The one I have in my truck right now cost me $25 in 2010...just check the manufacture date that should be on it...and make sure it is less than 2 years old if you can find one...

The one I have was made in 2010...the year I got it...so it was a new battery in every sense of the word except "new from the store".

But if you can afford a new battery you do get the new warranty with it...which I have never actually been able to use to any advantage because batteries don't usually die within the first five to seven years of the waranty.

 

[Andy D]

clean up/ replace that cable. For now, scrape the contact patches bright and tighten moderately. If the battery won't start the car, take it out and get it charged. Meanwhile . clean up the cable ends. That + connection is bad enough to be the problem by itself.

 

[futon]

Cleaned the hell out of the cables and terminals, no difference. Dropped in a new battery, started right up. If it dies in a few days, I'll know it's the alternator.

Thanks for all the insight.

 

[RonD]

Get a volt meter, save your new battery

 

[Mark_88]

Yes, get a volt meter.

Did you know you can check the battery voltage from inside the truck without even popping the hood?

The DC power outlet in the dash is how I've been checking mine when I don't want to walk out and open the hood...

 

[enjr44]

Yes, get a volt meter.

Did you know you can check the battery voltage from inside the truck without even popping the hood?

The DC power outlet in the dash is how I've been checking mine when I don't want to walk out and open the hood...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...t+meter.TRS0&_nkw=auto+dc+volt+meter&_sacat=0

 

[Mark_88]

Or one of these...I haven't seen them in stores around here but probably because I haven't been looking for them...

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Auto-Car-Veh...849582?hash=item2a561518ae:g:xVYAAOSw~gRVzLTO

 

[futon]

The old battery, which has been disconnected for awhile now is showing 12.4 volts. I haven't connected it yet to see how that changes while starting the truck.

The new battery was showing 11.8 volts this morning. The truck started up fine. While running, the battery shows 14.7 volts.

 

[futon]

K, the old battery drops to 4.5 volts while cranking.