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Wohlf 16's 99 Ranger build


Why such the dilemma on doin coils or leaves? The reason i ask is im in the same situation deciding whether i want to run coils or leaves. I have reasons for wanting to do both and just figured id get another members perspective that has the same model truck as mine.
 
The reason I chose leaves is cause I thought that it would be easier and a lot cheaper. It has actually been pretty tough getting things the way you want it. Getting everything squared is actually really tough and figuring out the compression on the springs and where to put things is a freakin pain. Cost of the leaf spring sas has cost me just over 3k and half was the price of the truck and boggers. I bought my truck back for $850 and got the boggers used with the nipples still on them for $750. I have really been a bargain hunter. I even found my dana 44s front and rear for $300 for the set.
The only reason I say I wish I had gone with coils is because Ive had to put all this extra fab work in to do leaves I might as well had made my own coil buckets and run a coil sprung 44. And even though the waggy 44 I got is setup for leaves I still had to chop the shit out of it to make it spring over and to fit the width of the ranger.
I think when Im done im gonna be happy with it but when my blue ranger gets retired its getting a coil sprung front end.
 
Some crappy pics from my cell phone of the front bolted in. Get some more later hopefully out of the barn with the boggers on. After that chevy 63's swap on rear, then stearing, then I guess I prolly better puts some brakes on it.
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Finally got it out of the barn. Just got married and had a lot of stuff to do so hopefully get to work on it a little more now. Need to do steering, brakes and 63inch spring swap. once again crappy cell phone pics but will get better later.
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I mean this in as nice of a way as possible and no disrespect: That cross member looks pretty awful.
Square tube on it's side is not a good method for lowering the hangers. I don't really see why you couldn't tuck the hanger up closer to the main frame and increase your approach angle. I realize that the pinion angle might not be that great, but there are different sizes and styles of springs that might be offset of otherwise offer a solution.

Yet another reason I prefer coils & linked systems.

+1

the reason people put shackles up front instead of the rear is so that when u articulate, your drive shaft doesnt come apart.
 
Not tryin to be a smart ass but wouldnt putting the shackles up front make your axle want to push forward causing your drive shaft to come apart? I think mine would want to push back causing it to send the drive shaft threw the transfer case. Not sayin that either one is a great idea. But anyways The front end is stiff as sh!t. I am prolly gonna use a little bit longer shackle just so it does have a little more give. Ive said it before and it never happens but i am gonna try and keep it updated. Wanted it ready for the wedding didnt happen now Im shootin for drivability by mid August for fair time. Everybody likes a hill billy build in the parking lot of the fair dont they?
 
Not tryin to be a smart ass but wouldnt putting the shackles up front make your axle want to push forward causing your drive shaft to come apart? I think mine would want to push back causing it to send the drive shaft threw the transfer case. Not sayin that either one is a great idea.

if the shackle is in the front, the back of the leaves is hard mounted to the frame causing less extension of the driveshaft.

Good luck!
 
What are you planning to do with the steering? Can you mill and high-steer those knuckles? Buying a knuckle was the most expensive part of my SAS.

BTW, which part of Ohio are you from? I'm from the Akron area.
 
your 8.8 will be stronger than that rear d44. I like that you saved the ranger from the scrap heap. Good work so far.
 
Thanks guys! Im about an hour east of columbus. Im in between Newark and Mt. Vernon if you know were that is. I actually bought my dana 44s off a guy that lived in Akron. He was a jeep guy though. As for the steering I saw a guy on here that welded tabs halfway on the tierod and used a short drag link to the pitman arm. Should work until I save up some money for hi-steer.

And about that 44 rear. I couldnt believe when I read that the 44 rear was weaker than the 8.8. So the 8.8 is gonna stay temporarily. My neighbor has a 9inch with I think 5.13s in it that hes gonna give me for free. So later im gonna put it in there.
 
yea hi steer knuckles cost alot. stupid sas
 
And about that 44 rear. I couldnt believe when I read that the 44 rear was weaker than the 8.8. So the 8.8 is gonna stay temporarily. My neighbor has a 9inch with I think 5.13s in it that hes gonna give me for free. So later im gonna put it in there.

thats perfect! ive got a set of 5.13 gears that are up for sale for the dana 44 front! lol!
 
Hey I got a qquestion. I was wondering when you throw a block in the rear do you need longer shocks? Im thinking about either add a leaf or 2 inch shackle.
Thanks
 
With only two inches whether block, add a leaf, or shackle Im pretty sure you would be fine with stock shocks. Just dont do all of them and expect to run stock shocks. Before the sas I ran stock shocks front and rear but I did notice when I was torching off the front that one of the front shocks had broken. Prolly from the torsion crank or it might have been from the roll over.

Anyways. The other day I started my 63 inch chevy swap. Got one side 99% done when the wife got home from work. Suppose to have been cutting the grass so that went over well. If I hadnt messed around for 1/2 hour tryin to get my air hammer to run off my 1940 air compressor it would have only taken me about an hour to get the one side done. Never did get enough pressure built up to run the air hammer. Finish both sides on saturday and hope to post pics then. If I have time thinkin about grindin down the crush spot or whatever its called and welding in a piece of flat steel to mount the stering box to.
 

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