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winch rating?


CountryBoy704

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
372
City
carolina
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I'm on a tight budget but looking for a winch cause everyone piles into my truck to wheel and no other vehicles come :annoyed: I'm thinking a 4500lb pull winch would be more than enough to yank my little 2500lb ranger outta most any mud hole wouldnt it? and yes I am looking at atv winches here, especially with the proper use of a snatch block I think 4500 is plenty but I'd like some opinions
theres really no rock crawlin areas around me it would be almost solely for help out of holes that some ass decided to muck out with a bulldozer and NOT TELL ANYONE :mad::mad::mad:....anyways do you guys think this will work or no?
 
Quad winches work great....... for quads:icon_rofl: You want at least an 8,000lb winch for a truck:D
 
Yeah and a loaded ranger i think weights more then 2.5k. But a winch is one of the last places to cheap out for a smaller one because those things can kill you and everyone else around when the cables let go.
Check the Xrc8 winch out in this link its a very good price for a 8k in my opinion
http://www.jamesoaksenterprises.com/products/smittybiltwinch.htm
 
http://www.jamesoaksenterprises.com/products/smittybiltwinch.htm

Smittybilt XRC8 $300

CALCULATING THE FORCE OF A RECOVERY OPERATION:
This is a critical step in both the conduct of a winch recovery (because you need to be absolutely sure that EVERY single piece of equipment used in the task is strong enough and will not fail and thereby endanger life and limb), and in the selection/purchase and decision to use a piece of recovery equipment. It is a calculation where, quite frankly, the manufacturer's recommendations are woefully inadequate. Why? Simply because if they let you in on how large the forces really are, it would leave you realizing that they are unable to economically produce a winch of sufficient capacity in anything resembling a small, light, or economical enough package. They get away with it, because, as I said, there are virtually no regulations or standards governing the industry. I'm not saying all 4x4 winches are inadequate, dangerous, or useless. But I am saying that the forces involved are often much greater than the manufacturer's would have you believe, and you will be far more capable and SAFER if you approach your 4x4 recovery KNOWING THIS, and knowing the real numbers. Realize, that for reasons of practicality and economics, your 4x4 recovery equipment is almost certainly undersized.....you can still do the job, using the correct techniques, but you will be much SAFER if you keep this in mind. Enough of the pre-amble.

Most, if not all, winch manufacturers will tell you to select a winch based on 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight. This often leads to less than satisfactory results for 2 reasons:

1) Most people are terrible at actually estimating the gross weight of their rig as it sits on the trail, full of gas, tools, equipment, food, camping gear, people, the dog...everything. Heck, in some cases the real figure can actually exceed the GVWR of the vehicle. Simple advice here - either err WAY on the heavy side, or get your rig weighed in trail trim.

2) More importantly, the "effective weight" of a "stuck" 4x4 is very often FAR more than 1.5 times the GVW. The following data on how to more accurately estimate the "effective weight", is taken from the world of professional heavy recovery - the guys that recover Tractor-trailers that have flipped on their side for instance, as well as U.S., Canadian, and UK Military recovery manuals.

Once you have accurately estimated or measured the trucks loaded weight (LW) you can calculate the resistance to be overcome in any recovery situation (this is commonly known as the ROLLING resistance). There are 4 types of resistance that must be accounted for to accurately assess the resistance that must be overcome. These are surface resistance, damage resistance, mire (stuck) resistance and grade (slope) resistance. Calculate them all as follows:

Surface resistance

A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.

A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,

Damage resistance:

A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)

Stuck (mire) resistance:

A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.

A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.

A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..

Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)

Grade (slope) resistance:

Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade)

15 degrees - add 25% of LW

30 degrees - add 50% of LW

45 degrees - add 75% of LW

Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction

Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade)

15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW

30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW

45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW

Final figure:

Add surface or damage or mire resistance and grade resistance, and this is your final figure or rolling resistance. This is the amount of pull the winch must apply in order to recover the stuck vehicle.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/

Sometimes you need more then 4500lbs of pulling power to get your truck out.

Edit: I love my XRC8, it has gotten me out of quite a few tight spots, and is well worth $300.

-Jester
 
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Your Rangers curbside weight is probably closer to 3500lbs. As Jester said, you can exert 3 times the weight of your truck in nasty mud... An ATV winch will break the first time you really need it.
 
Nope, 10 minutes later:thefinger:

They're the same size as a comparable Warn. As for usage, Warn's have a slightly faster line speed. They work great for weekend warriors, if your not beating on them day in and day out and overheating the motor they hold up fine.

-Jester
 
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My B2 weighed right at 3500 pounds when I weighed it before my 4.0 and winch.I bought the XRC8 two years ago used it about 3 weeks ago to pull myself out once and an old friend out 3 times in a Toyota 4 runner.When your up to your but in snow or whatever it will be well worth it to grab the full size cable and know your going to be leaving soon.Mine has worked really well for the price I mounted it on a plate that I got a hold of and put across the frame.So it's pretty good about not costing you a fortune to get it mounted.
 
Nope, 10 minutes later:thefinger:

They're the same size as a comparable Warn. As for usage, Warn's have a slightly faster line speed. They work great for weekend warriors, if your not beating on them day in and day out and overheating the motor they hold up fine.

-Jester
I meant my first post i linked the same winch, but could i get some dimensions on the xrc8, as if it was a box like height/length/width. Just need them so i can leave the space in my front bumper/behind skid plate I'm gonna be making after spring break?
 
Remember the mad suction from mud vs most other winching situations increases the load alot.
 
I meant my first post i linked the same winch, but could i get some dimensions on the xrc8, as if it was a box like height/length/width. Just need them so i can leave the space in my front bumper/behind skid plate I'm gonna be making after spring break?

Oh, didn't see that.

This is what their website says. 21" x 6.22" x 7.283"

http://www.smittybilt.com/product/index/38.htm

-Jester
 

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