will a reman S-box get rid of the loosy goosy feel?

[nuts&bolts]

I've owned full size 4x4 TIS trucks and now own a ranger TIS 2wd 94. I like the ford trucks but have never had a ford the steered worth a damn. I have always changed all worn out suspension parts and simply adjusted the box. Just did the trial and error adjustment. Took out as much play as possible while maintaining steering-wheel self return to center. Left it and lived with it. Never really improved it much. I've driven worn out late 80's S-10's and Blazers and they always felt tight. Everything else on the vehicles where garbage and beat. But the steering felt tight like a rack. Has anyone ever modified other steering boxes other than a ford box to fit in a ranger? Will getting a reman box ever make a TIS feel tight. Is it simply the way the TIS pivots that makes the steering wander so much. It's like chasing a dog. If a new box will tighten things up, what is the best lasting re-man box. Don't want to waste money on garbage. I am a diesel engine mechanic and remember brands like mascot being total junk.

 

[MAKG]

Inverted-Y steering will never be perfect; a perfect linkage for TIB requires linkages that go right through the axle beams, which is obviously impossible. So, you'll get some "bump steer."

I've noticed that adjusting the box by trial and error often results in an overtightened box. While it might feel like a "wander," it's actually poor returnability to center. There is a "right" way to do this involving an inch-lb torque wrench and a drained and disconnected gear. It's surprisingly loose, and only a couple of people have reported success with it.

While it's a guess, I think you'll have a better time with a reman box.

Assuming you haven't missed a loose part (e.g., axle pivot bushings, broken radius arm bushings, worn balljoints, loose wheel bearings, worn linkage parts, etc.). The stock steering will never be "good," but you should be able to make it "acceptable."

Also note that incorrect toe, especially toe-out, can cause wander.

 

[nuts&bolts]

The steering components are all new or good. Except for the box and the scary looking job of changing the beam pivot bushings. Going to go with a reman or new box. Which company is the best. I've had the allignment checked even though the pivot bushings are wore. Checked out O.K. I know the bushings will have an affect on things. Will changing the bushings make that big of a difference other than noise improvement. Any tips on doing the bushing job? I don't believe in taking off anymore than I have to.

 

[MAKG]

The bushings will have a HUGE effect if they are hosed. Your camber will change around turns. Fix this FIRST!

They aren't that hard with a jack and prybar.

 

[nuts&bolts]

Thanks. I was thinking. Bottle jack the beam down and drive out the bushing with an air hammer. Wasn't sure if the beams would go low enough.

 

[MAKG]

A prybar will get them out. You may need a jack to get them back in, just because there really isn't a good place to put a prybar for that direction.

If the vehicle is on frame stands with the suspension drooping, the pivots will clear the brackets.

 

[nuts&bolts]

Thanks. Sounds like a painless, payless job for me.