Whoa Whoa Whoa, Locker in front diff a bad thing for DD?

[wahlstrom1]

They do unlock, usually unlock best during coast. But they will unlock as long as your not on the throttle, float position is what your after.

 

[4x4junkie]

I'm not sure about the "one hub locked" thing, I can see the truck skewing out of control on an icy road if you have to accelerate or brake suddenly (as suddenly as possible on ice anyway lol).

I'd be looking for a selectable locker if it will be used much in winter (a little more spendy, but well worth having the choice of open or locked for the situation at hand).

 

[Dweano]

Yeah I'd love a selectable locker, but lockers are already a luxury I can barely afford haha. And as far as 3wd on roads...I know this sounds like not a good idea, but I stay in 2wd on roads until I hit the ditch haha. So really i think this setup will work for me

 

[wahlstrom1]

I'd rock it....I barely ever use 4wd in winter anyways. Just load up the winter weight and run a decent set of tires. I use 4wd when 2wd can't get me any farther.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, the only times I use 4x4 on the road is when I'm starting off in the snow, or when the road is bad enough that I start to slide above 25. Once I'm moving I usually bump it back to 2H, since most of the vehicles around here can't go fast enough to make my truck fish-tail.

 

[Hahnsb2]

IMHO you should lock the rear. Oversteer is easy to compensate for, and when in 4wd with an open front diff it acts very normal and predictable.

 

[dirtsquirt]

I have had several trucks with lockers in the front, but they have always be selectable on or off. i am not sure i would install a non selectable in the front.

 

[Dweano]

Hmm..so much to think about haha. This diff is a good deal and will get me 4.56's and a locker. So 2 birds one stone kinda deal. And my back is limited slip which I will be rebuilding stronger when i regear that (unless anyone has a 8.8 pumpkin with 4.56's and a pumpkin, if so PM me). But from what it sounds like I mostly drive like adsm08 and wahlstrom1. 2wd only unless I need 4wd. And my tires are 33x12.50x15 Toyo Open Country M/T's. So I like to think they are pretty good haha

 

[fastpakr]

Thread necro apology...


Anyway, I'm going back and forth on a Lockright install in my D35 SLA. This would be for street use in combination with a limited slip in the back. A couple of quick questions:
1) As long as I'm in 2wd, there's no noticeable effect of the locker even with a live axle/hubs locked in, right?
2) When in 4wd, how much of an issue is it to just back off the throttle in a turn so the front end unlocks?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you can unlock your hubs you should be ok. If you have pvh yet it might get funky if one hangs up or something.

I checked into a limited slip for mine, could never really get a straight answer how the steering would be. If the axles rotate much or not as the truck steers (shifting so the u-joints will be in the right direction) or how that works and if that would make the steering in 2wd lumpy or not if the front wheels fought each other.

You have CV's so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[fastpakr]

I'm referring to having the hubs engaged and driving in 4wd. As I understand it, the lockright only locks together when power is applied. If that's the case, can the ensuing understeer be eliminated/controlled by releasing the throttle while turning? If so, it seems like a locker would actually be preferable to a limited slip in a steering axle.

 

[Curious Hound]

As I understand it, the lockright only locks together when power is applied.

There are springs trying to keep it locked all the time. WITHOUT POWER APPLIED, it has the ability to overcome the springs and allow the side gears to slip, making a bit of a ratcheting noise. Releasing the throttle around corners can allow this to happen.

I have Aussie lockers front and rear on my '93. I do NOT lock the hubs on dry pavement. Of course, the rear is always in use. I am getting into the habit of coasting around tight corners. But it takes practice and planning. Turning a corner while starting from a stop sign or traffic light is a situation where you don't have much choice. You must apply power to get moving. Therefore, tire wear and stresses in the axle and differential occur. Getting in and out of parking lot spaces is another situation. You need a light touch on throttle and clutch in these instances. It's just a different driving style to learn.

I'm referring to having the hubs engaged and driving in 4wd.

Hopefully, you mean in off-road situations only and not on dry pavement. From what I understand, that's usually a bad idea for the transfer case on dry pavement / high traction situations.

 

[fastpakr]

There are springs trying to keep it locked all the time. WITHOUT POWER APPLIED, it has the ability to overcome the springs and allow the side gears to slip, making a bit of a ratcheting noise. Releasing the throttle around corners can allow this to happen.

I have Aussie lockers front and rear on my '93. I do NOT lock the hubs on dry pavement. Of course, the rear is always in use. I am getting into the habit of coasting around tight corners. But it takes practice and planning. Turning a corner while starting from a stop sign or traffic light is a situation where you don't have much choice. You must apply power to get moving. Therefore, tire wear and stresses in the axle and differential occur. Getting in and out of parking lot spaces is another situation. You need a light touch on throttle and clutch in these instances. It's just a different driving style to learn.

Good point on low speed maneuvering in a parking lot or at a stop sign. It would definitely require some technique.

Hopefully, you mean in off-road situations only and not on dry pavement. From what I understand, that's usually a bad idea for the transfer case on dry pavement / high traction situations.

This would certainly only be done in situations requiring 4wd.