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Which method to lift 363/C4???


35Remmy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
265
Age
45
City
Binghamton NY
Vehicle Year
1988
1999
Transmission
Automatic
Im currently planning on stabbing in my 363/C4 combo as one unit to align for James Duff engine mounts and James Duff swap headers.....would you trust the lifting plate held on by 4 bolts to the aluminum intake or would you remove some head bolts (ARP so not torque to yield) and use a lifting chain/strap? Using the lifting plate is making me have nervous thoughts with the additional weight of the C4. Thanks guys!!! Been away for a while.
 
I've always used a chain cross bolted between the front of one head and the rear of the other. $ 5/16 bolts might hold but it will really suck if they don't.
 
Yes those were my thoughts too. Ok. I guess taking the extra time to undo 2 head bolts is worth the piece of mind huh.
 
I don't use the head bolts, I use the 7/16 threaded holes in the ends of the heads. I would never loosen a head bolt after torqueing them.
 
I use several chains-1 small loop thru the hoist hook and 1 from the rear of the pass head
thru the loop to the front of the drivers head. another from the rear of the drivers head thru the
loop to the front of the pass head. Using the loop keeps the engine from twisting while it is
in the air. Depending on what heads you are using and what you will be using the truck for,
I think the JD headers might be a little small for your combo---just my opinion.
 
ITSA so as 19WALT eluded to, youre also just using the 7/16ths holes in the ends of the heads? Im running AFR 185's...and yes i purchased the Duff headers before i built the 363, and i think they are somewhat small as well. But i also have no idea what would work as we have so many issues fitting headers on these trucks. Anys suggestions?
 
I am installing a 351/427w in a 97 Ranger.I am not ready to start on the headers yet.
I have purchased a set of flanges with stubs,
collectors and 2in J bends and will go outside the frame with the headers.
I will use 3.5 pipe to the rear wheels.
 
ITSA I would love to do that, but I haven’t welded in 10 years and when I did it looked like a 2 year old did it.
I am thinking about going the “bolts in the ends of the heads” route but don’t know if the chain and bolts at the rear of the heads would end up too close to the firewall for that to even work.
 
I use 4 outside intake manifold bolt holes with longer bolts and some 1/8" flat stock bent in a L.
 
I've lifted my 302/C4 in and out by the carb bolts and a lift plate a few times now. A 363 is heavier, but not much.
 
Was it “pucker” the whole time she was dangling by the chain? I’ll be sure to pick up grade 8 bolts
 
Was it “pucker” the whole time she was dangling by the chain? I’ll be sure to pick up grade 8 bolts

Not really. If something breaks it can only fall as far as the floor.

Grade 8 bolts or not the aluminum intake manifold is the weakest link. Your factory carb bolts will hold much more weight than the intake manifold.

But I also know that back in the 60s it was fairly common for guys to rent a Mustang 350GH, swap the entire power train into their own car on a Friday night with their buddies, go racing Saturday, then but both cars back together on Sunday. The only way they were doing that was leaving the engine and trans together.
 

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