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Which is the absolute best clutch kit and slave cylinder?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike Tonon
  • Start date Start date

Mike Tonon

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For a 2007 Ranger 4x4. I want something that may well last the life of the vehicle, even if I put another 200,000 miles on it. And I want no issues with the slave cylinder, either.
 
For a 2007 Ranger 4x4. I want something that may well last the life of the vehicle, even if I put another 200,000 miles on it. And I want no issues with the slave cylinder, either.
Well there are some things that money just can't buy ..
We put a rhino pack clutch & slave pre bled set up from Rock Auto in my truck
 
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Ford or LUK, never had problems with either
 
NAPA, 170,000 miles and 6-7 years later it's still going. checking and adding fluid would have avoided a bleeding issue 2 weeks ago.
 
How about EFT?
My truck is an XLT. Is my clutch the same as an FX4?

An FX4 is an XLT. You just need to make sure the clutch is correct for your engine.

LUK and Ford clutches are the same thing. When I did my clutch, I recall the original looked exactly like the LUK I replaced it with and I think it even had LUK stamped on it. I don't know about other brands of clutches.

I am have about 140K miles on that clutch now and it is still working fine but the slave leaks a little when it is cold (less than 45 F). Once it gets warmed up a little while driving, the leak stops. I just check the reservoir occasionally during the winter months and top off as needed. I plan to drop the transmission later this year and put in a new slave. I will check out the clutch to see if it needs to be replaced too.
 
Ok, but what’s the best slave cylinder out there?

Here’s my situation... last summer, I noticed that since the winter before, my clutch was low. I would push the pedal maybe two inches down before it got stiff. My buddy and his dad are mechanics and I’ve been going to them for stuff for years and years. They’re also Ford truck enthusiasts. They looked at my truck, recommended to change the master cylinder and see if that helps. I had a factory master installed. The problem was fixed, right after that, my clutch pedal became stiff after only about half inch down. This stayed the same until winter started coming. Now it’s not stiff until about two inches down, again. The fluid level is to the top. They said I could try pumping the clutch, I tried that, no help. They said it might need a slave cylinder. If I do that, I might as well do a clutch kit while that’s all apart. If I do that, I’m going cheap, I want top notch parts. I had an 87 Ranger when I was younger, that I had the clutch changed on, with a cheap aftermarket clutch kit. Soon after that, there was a rumbling squeal noise coming from inside the bell housing, when engaging the clutch.
 
It seems that colder temperatures disrupt the hydrolic system, but I don’t notice any fluid leaking anywhere.
 
They said I could try bleeding the master cylinder from inside the cab. But I’m not sure how to do that. And I’ll probably have to do that every winter.
 
Yes, Luk is the OEM supplier for Ford. A complete job would include a new flywheel also. Or if you have yours resurfaced be sure to put a shim of the same thickness that was removed from surfacing between crankshaft and flywheel.
 
When we replaced the transmission in my truck I opted to pick up a complete new pre bled unit made by AMS and sold by RockAuto the hardest part was trying to figure out how to get the new hydraulic line from the mc to the slave connection!

The MC goes into the firewall with a quarter-turn into a bolt on flange. Take it out and turn it upside down I think is what your friends are telling you about because the angle it sits at creates a little air bubble pocket.

Knowing what it takes to do that, I'd suggest you pick up a mityvac and bleed it by drawing through and adding fluid at the same time because the reservoir holds very little fluid.

But if you're still running on the original slave cylinder & clutch consider yourself lucky and blessed by the ford gods. [emoji1787]. It is a beach of a job on the four wheel drive Rangers.
 
When we replaced the transmission in my truck I opted to pick up a complete new pre bled unit made by AMS and sold by RockAuto the hardest part was trying to figure out how to get the new hydraulic line from the mc to the slave connection!

The MC goes into the firewall with a quarter-turn into a bolt on flange. Take it out and turn it upside down I think is what your friends are telling you about because the angle it sits at creates a little air bubble pocket.

Knowing what it takes to do that, I'd suggest you pick up a mityvac and bleed it by drawing through and adding fluid at the same time because the reservoir holds very little fluid.

But if you're still running on the original slave cylinder & clutch consider yourself lucky and blessed by the ford gods. [emoji1787]. It is a beach of a job on the four wheel drive Rangers.

And I plow snow with it! ? everything seems fine, it’s just the pedal is low. I think I’ll try to bleed it.
 

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