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Which is a better deal XRC8 or XRC10?


CountryBoy78

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
164
City
Rice Lake,WI
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys what are your thoughts or comments on the Smittybilt XRC8 vs the XRC10's?

I am looking to buy a winch sometime this summer and was thinking I should go with the XRC10.
As of now I want it portable to use on my 94 Explorer, use it on my car hauler, and maybe use it on my 2004 F-150 Screw.

I won't be using it everyday but I want it to work when I need it. I know alot of you guys like the XRC8's but I don't hear alot about the 10's.

I know the 8's are cheaper and smaller than the 10's but what is the better deal?
Don't bother just buy a WARN because I can't afford those.

So give a shout out what you think.
 
If you want to use it with your fullsize truck, I would say go with the xrc10.
Getting stuck in a good mud hole can exert up to 3 times the weight of your truck on the winch, so a 3500 lb truck can max out the 10 in the worst of conditions realistically.
 
I love my XRC8. If you are going to be useing it for your F150 get the XRC10.

CALCULATING THE FORCE OF A RECOVERY OPERATION:
This is a critical step in both the conduct of a winch recovery (because you need to be absolutely sure that EVERY single piece of equipment used in the task is strong enough and will not fail and thereby endanger life and limb), and in the selection/purchase and decision to use a piece of recovery equipment. It is a calculation where, quite frankly, the manufacturer's recommendations are woefully inadequate. Why? Simply because if they let you in on how large the forces really are, it would leave you realizing that they are unable to economically produce a winch of sufficient capacity in anything resembling a small, light, or economical enough package. They get away with it, because, as I said, there are virtually no regulations or standards governing the industry. I'm not saying all 4x4 winches are inadequate, dangerous, or useless. But I am saying that the forces involved are often much greater than the manufacturer's would have you believe, and you will be far more capable and SAFER if you approach your 4x4 recovery KNOWING THIS, and knowing the real numbers. Realize, that for reasons of practicality and economics, your 4x4 recovery equipment is almost certainly undersized.....you can still do the job, using the correct techniques, but you will be much SAFER if you keep this in mind. Enough of the pre-amble.

Most, if not all, winch manufacturers will tell you to select a winch based on 1.5 times the gross vehicle weight. This often leads to less than satisfactory results for 2 reasons:

1) Most people are terrible at actually estimating the gross weight of their rig as it sits on the trail, full of gas, tools, equipment, food, camping gear, people, the dog...everything. Heck, in some cases the real figure can actually exceed the GVWR of the vehicle. Simple advice here - either err WAY on the heavy side, or get your rig weighed in trail trim.

2) More importantly, the "effective weight" of a "stuck" 4x4 is very often FAR more than 1.5 times the GVW. The following data on how to more accurately estimate the "effective weight", is taken from the world of professional heavy recovery - the guys that recover Tractor-trailers that have flipped on their side for instance, as well as U.S., Canadian, and UK Military recovery manuals.

Once you have accurately estimated or measured the trucks loaded weight (LW) you can calculate the resistance to be overcome in any recovery situation (this is commonly known as the ROLLING resistance). There are 4 types of resistance that must be accounted for to accurately assess the resistance that must be overcome. These are surface resistance, damage resistance, mire (stuck) resistance and grade (slope) resistance. Calculate them all as follows:

Surface resistance

A pull of 1/10 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a hard, level surface.

A pull of 1/3 LW will cause a free wheeling truck to move on a softer surface, such as grass or gravel,

Damage resistance:

A pull of 2/3 LW will be required to move if the wheels cannot rotate (as if the brakes were fully applied), the pull required to overcome the resistance (drag) the truck id 2/3 or 67% of the LW. Damage resistance includes surface resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)

Stuck (mire) resistance:

A pull of 100% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to a depth of the sidewall on the tires.

A pull of 200% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the hubs.

A pull of 300% of LW will be required if the truck is stuck to the frame..

Mire resistance includes damage resistance (i.e. you only use one or the other)

Grade (slope) resistance:

Upgrade (vehicle has to be recovered up a slope or grade)

15 degrees - add 25% of LW

30 degrees - add 50% of LW

45 degrees - add 75% of LW

Vehicle recovery on level ground - no correction

Downgrade (vehicle has to be recovered down a slope or grade)

15 degrees - subtract 25% of LW

30 degrees - subtract 50% of LW

45 degrees - subtract 75% of LW

Final figure:

Add surface or damage or mire resistance and grade resistance, and this is your final figure or rolling resistance. This is the amount of pull the winch must apply in order to recover the stuck vehicle.

BillaVista's Recovery Bible

-Jester
 
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i know a guy that runs a 10 on his jeep jk and he loves it... and i agree, if you are using it for a FS get the 10
 
i know 7 people locally with a xrc and non of them with a broke winch??? i've seen lots of SB's last if taken care of and used properly.. and used regularly..


but this is a thread about xrc 8 vs xrc 10.... not about everyone feels about SB. i understand where the OP comes from. xrc's are a good winch for their money. you get what you pay for of course.
 
Yeah I am leaning towards the 10K because for a little more money for a bigger one is the best route.

Will the 10K be enough for my 2004 F-150 Screw?

It is a DD and a pavement pounder but you never know when a winch could be handy in the winter time.

I was thinking for now to get the receiver mount system so I can swap the winch between trucks. I know they hang low and you loose ground clearance but I won't have the winch out in the elements and keeps it away from theives.
What are your thoughts for receiver mount systems? Do they even make a front mount for my F-150?

Thanks for the quick replys and keep them comming.
 
You must be a WARN fan.....so what did they break on the xrc8's?

If I had to bet, they overheated the motors. Same thing can happen with warn's or any other electric winch. If you can't hold your bare hand to the motor then you need to let it cool off for a few minutes before continuing your recovery.

-Jester
 
Yeah I am leaning towards the 10K because for a little more money for a bigger one is the best route.

Will the 10K be enough for my 2004 F-150 Screw?

It is a DD and a pavement pounder but you never know when a winch could be handy in the winter time.

I was thinking for now to get the receiver mount system so I can swap the winch between trucks. I know they hang low and you loose ground clearance but I won't have the winch out in the elements and keeps it away from theives.
What are your thoughts for receiver mount systems? Do they even make a front mount for my F-150?

Thanks for the quick replys and keep them comming.

10K should be fine. If in doubt, use a snatch block or two. If you can't get it out with a double snatched 10K, call for help.

-Jester
 

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