which 5.0(302)

[RonD]

Try car-part.com

use 1983 Ford Mustang or Ford F-150
select "engine" as the part
And your ZIP code
Then click "search"

Then it will ask engine model, 5.0l

1983-1985 used 4-barrel on most of the 5.0l's

 

[Dirtman]

I think we are all forgetting one MAJOR factor in making the decision.

Engines is goes vroom.

 

[RonD]

2.9l goes VROOM

5.0l goes vroom

 

[Dirtman]

No no no 2.9 is goes boom.

 

[dirtymike]

Anything but clickity-clickty clack is fine.

 

[Roert42]

*Knock knock*

Who’s there?

Crank

Crank who?

Your Crank Bearing

 

[dirtymike]

No its cam bearings

 

[Roert42]

No its cam bearings

Not on my Monte Carlo it wasn’t. Lol.

 

[Angie]

"what casting numbers am i looking for (the 255 block. (1979-1983-4 ). So this is one to stay away from? Edit, i wikied it. Says ford stopped production in 1982?"



Personally I wouldn't touch any of these blocks with these casting numbers. You need to remember that these years had heavy pollution control crap added and who knows what other crap went into these blocks and engines.

Not wanting to start any wars, this is only my opinion, if you are running one of these good on you and I hope all stays great.

cheers


D4OE-AA – 1974-1980, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

D5ZY-AA – 1975-1981, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

D8BE – 1978-1979, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

D8OE – 1978-1980, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

D9OE-E3A – 1979-1981, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

EOAE-D3C – 1980-1984, 302 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

EOSE-A2E – 1980, 255 Windsor small-block, 2-bolt mains

A Guide To Ford V8 Engine Block Casting Numbers, 1952-1996

This guide covers engine block casting numbers associated with Ford Y-Block, FE, Windsor, Cleveland, big-block Ford, and more!

www.enginelabs.com

 

[19Walt93]

There are some 302's to avoid, 73-76 had .023" extra deck height to drop compression topped with restrictive rail rocker heads and a nylon toothed timing gear that lasted 40k max. I'd urge you to pick and 82 or later to get a one piece rear main seal and an even later one to get a roller cam- 85 for Mustangs with other models changing over time. Roller cams reduce friction and you don't have to use high zinc oil. You'll need a steel distributor gear to mate with a roller cam Mustangs got better heads in 87, the E7TE truck heads are basically 69 351 heads with pedestal rockers. 96 and early 97 Explorers got GT 40 heads, in late 97 they switched to GT 40P heads. I've seen nearly stock fox bodies with bolted on blowers run 11's in the quarter with no failures, the lighter block won't be a problem unless you're building a real animal. If you decide on an HEI style distributor but the one from Davis Unified Ignition not one of the $55 Chinese knockoffs. I personally removed my NFG Pertronix Billet distributor and installed Duraspark so I could get centrifugal advance without an 8 second delay. I built my own wiring harness for the whole truck, the 4 or 5 more wires to convert to Duraspark didn't scare me.

 

[dirtymike]

Sounds like a gamble if you dont know which casting number your looking for. I scared the man on the phone at the salvage yard when i asked for a 302 with a carb. Dirty

 

[Dirtman]

I still say there is no bad option if you just wanna drop it in and run... Yes some are better than others for this or that but in the end a stock 302 is gonna work, last, and be reliable no matter what year it is as long as it's in good shape and taken care of. If you're building it for power or something then yes you want one over the other but no stock 302 was ever an unreliable engine. Underpowered sure... Unreliable nope...

And switching from EFI to carb is not complex. Hell if you get a good EFI engine you can probably sell the EFI stuff for more money than it'll cost for a 4bbl manifold and a carb (as long as it's not DIS, I dunno how that conversion works). I still say find a 85-93 EFI distributor engine which are a dime a dozen and slap a new manifold on it. You can use old fashion cheap front drive accessories, get a decent roller engine, and just need to swap intakes. Even 94+ ain't bad just different front accessories so you need to keep that in mind when looking for brackets and what not.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

And switching from EFI to carb is not complex. Hell if you get a good EFI engine you can probably sell the EFI stuff for more money than it'll cost for a 4bbl manifold and a carb (as long as it's not DIS, I dunno how that conversion works). I still say find a 85-93 EFI distributor engine which are a dime a dozen and slap a new manifold on it. You can use old fashion cheap front drive accessories, get a decent roller engine, and just need to swap intakes. Even 94+ ain't bad just different front accessories so you need to keep that in mind when looking for brackets and what not.

For carb in a roller motor '85 Mustang GT 5 speed distributor is the ticket. The only application that had a carb with a roller cam.

I have Duraspark which I like, can run just about any aftermarket ignition off a Duraspark dizzy (MSD etc) also.

I would not pass up Duraspark to try to cob TFI onto anything.

 

[19Walt93]

You can put a steel gear onto any Duraspark distributor. I replaced a shiny turd of a Pertronix distributor with Duraspark so I could get proper centrifugal advance. We knew Duraspark was better than Chrysler's electronic ignition in the 70's but didn't appreciate how good Duraspark was until TFI came out.

 

[Dirtman]

But does duraspark compare to the mighty GM HEI?