What would be best?

[Toastystench666]

Hey guys! Just joined today but have been apart of bcrangerclub for almost 2 years now.

Transmission started slipping, got it diagnosed as a possible faulty modulator valve. Changed it myself, slips even more. Changed the pin, didnt shift at all. Changed the pin again, now it slips and has a hard time shifting. Anyway, long story short. I think my transmission might be fucked and I'm weighing in doing a full swap.

I usually do basic car mechanic stuff like fixing leaks and simple maintence. I'm really wanting to learn and can take my time doing a v-8 swap. Smart, good with tools and decently mechanically inclined.

Been looking at either swapping to a 289 because I hear they're a stronger block with a smaller combustion chamber which I find appealing. But really all in all, I'd like to get my truck back on the road asap. So what's the easiest engine to swap in? I hear a 302 is. But a 289 and 302 are almost the same correct? I can get a "rebuilt" 289 with a c4 transmission for 500 bucks but buddy doesnt know what went into the rebuild. If this falls through I'll just get a donor car and pull what I need out.

So coming from having a 1985 ford ranger, 2wd, 2.8l with the a4ld tranny. What donor car should I get towed here that will have the most compatible parts (if its all there) and how much more work is putting in the 289 instead? I hear theres some messing around I'll have to do with the dipstick. What questions should I be asking the guy selling the 289? Again, young guy wanting to learn but really only have you guys for professional help. I expect to get put down and told not to touch anything. But how else is a guy suppose to learn?


Thanks a lot for any helpful comments! Scratching my head reading stuff now but I'm reading it over and over again over time and teaching myself to understand this stuff before I touch anything.

 

[Ranger850]

V8 ford explorer/mercury mountaineer will be the best donor

 

[Bird76Mojo]

The donor you choose will depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to keep EFI, then an Explorer/Mountaineer may be your best choice, or a Foxbody Mustang. I used a Thunderbird engine and it's EFI components on my swap, but used an aftermarket wiring system along with an A9P Mustang ECU because it has much more aggressive fueling parameters.

You'll have a lot more "messing around" to do than just the dipstick. Radiator and/or fan clearances, radiator hoses fitting right, crossmembers possibly needing modified, driveshaft possibly needing modified, wiring to figure out, driving your speedometer and/or giving a signal to the ECU you choose if it needs it, very tight exhaust clearances, possible steering shaft issues, etc. It depends on what components you choose to go with.

Expect to spend at least double what you originally thought. I spent about 4 times what I originally planned because I wanted the best of the best with certain parts..

289 or 302 won't matter much in the end. Unless you're planning on some serious power adders or nitrous, the block being an issue shouldn't even come in to play.

A lot of people go to a carb because of the simplicity of it, but now there are other options with the new EFI systems that are available. Those are nearly as simple as going to a carb, but they have the ability to self-tune to your specific engine, easier starting, etc..

Heddman 88400 headers work very well on the 1st gen Ranger.
Explorer 8.8" rear axles are a common swap for durability, but Ranger 8.8" axles can also be used. So can your stock 7.5" but it may not last.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Since a 289 is the same size (physically) as a 302, uses the same bolt pattern, etc etc the swap will be no different then a 302.

There are 302 swap kits out there that should work for a 289 as well.

Go with a carburator, itll save you alot of headache in the end, with little real difference over EFI if its tuned properly, regardless of what the techno-nerds say.

 

[19Walt93]

There are 2 SBF engines I'd recommend against: the 260 because they used the 5 bolt bell housing, and the 255 because they were dogs- they had tiny,oval intake ports to build low end torque(but it didn't work) so the heads and intake are odd balls that interchange with nothing. 73-76 302's had a .023" higher deck height to drop compression by sinking the pistons in the bores, they have crappy exhaust ports and rail rockers which cause valve guide wear. It's something you can work around but if you're buying an engine to start with I'd avoid those.