What to do.. what to do

[rjppunk]

they are cheap because you aren't paying for marketing/brand. If you can fit one of these http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=79 I'd recommend it. The sub works well in small box applications, you could run it in a 1-1.5 cubic foot box vented and less than that sealed. Full ranges in dash with components in the doors, you get your mid base, your tweeters up at head level, and the full ranges fill the in between.

 

[baxtej44]

there are other full ranges than the 12 cent drivers in boom boxes
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8470

I have a 5.1 home theater system made with the 3" version of these and I have two for car audio

to quote your post again... the site you linked says:

"Sealed box of 95 cubic inches (1.5 ltrs) has an F3 of 115Hz
Vented box of 150 cubic inches (2.5 ltrs) with 1" diameter port by 4" long has an F3 of 68Hz"

i don't actually need a box for these do i???? can't i just mount them in my dash? i assume it's got the four screw mounting pattern, and i can just get an adaptor?

well dude.. i mean i want this shit to be loud. it's got an rms of 20w.. what if i wanted to amp these eventually? obviously you know more about this stuff than me.. i just don't want to waste $18 plus shipping... i guess i'm just leery about it.

they are cheap because you aren't paying for marketing/brand. If you can fit one of these http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=79 I'd recommend it. The sub works well in small box applications, you could run it in a 1-1.5 cubic foot box vented and less than that sealed. Full ranges in dash with components in the doors, you get your mid base, your tweeters up at head level, and the full ranges fill the in between.

that depth is 6.2 inches... that'd be pushing it probably... but we'll see i suppose.


i guess i just dunno why i shouldn't get coaxials.



so you think my ultimate system would be

dash - those full ranges
doors(with fab work) - components, spending about ?250?
the components - midranges in doors, tweeters in the panel between windshield and window
rear - the 10" aurasound if possible that you posted
with a 300w rms amp?

and i'll obviously get a new deck eventually.
but at least i have an aftermarket right now... and it says it pushes 25w per channel

 

[rjppunk]

Mount them into your dash, you may or may not need to have a cross over for them, I can ask my buddy who made one up for mine what parts you'd need. All you would need then is a bit of soldering skill and nothing more.

 

[rjppunk]

well you don't need to worry about the deck so much unless you don't amp anything but the sub. I'd find a decent 4 channel and rig everything up to it. Bridge 2 channels for the sub and have the other two feed your speakers. Essentially turning it into a 3 channel amp.

 

[baxtej44]

Mount them into your dash, you may or may not need to have a cross over for them, I can ask my buddy who made one up for mine what parts you'd need. All you would need then is a bit of soldering skill and nothing more.

ya.. me = no soldering skill lol.. no equipment for it either i don't think..
is it really that bad if i have those just straight up? gonna look at a few local places today for speakers

well you don't need to worry about the deck so much unless you don't amp anything but the sub. I'd find a decent 4 channel and rig everything up to it. Bridge 2 channels for the sub and have the other two feed your speakers. Essentially turning it into a 3 channel amp.

so if i did that, i'd have to get a 2 channel down the road for components, IF i put them in?




just to be clear.... a channel is meant to feed ONE speaker? or is it for a set of speakers? (yes - complete lack of audio knowledge but we all gotta start somewhere right?)

 

[rjppunk]

you -can- run all your speakers off the head unit. They will be underpowered which is something I don't enjoy doing. If you have stand alone full ranges they will be fine off just the HU and would still probably be fine with rears added. Components are going to be very underpowered off the HU especially if the fulls and rears are in also.

 

[rjppunk]

Also for the "boom box" theory. I compared the aurasound drivers I own (3" not the 4" I'm recommending) to the orb audio ad banner up top (cheapest set goes for 800$) They look the same to me.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1400 http://www.orbaudio.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=25

 

[flyingbrick]

Also for the "boom box" theory. I compared the aurasound drivers I own (3" not the 4" I'm recommending) to the orb audio ad banner up top (cheapest set goes for 800$) They look the same to me.
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1400 http://www.orbaudio.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=25

With the orb system your paying for "looks" more then anything, and i don't mean to thread jack but there is a reason recording studios run $3000+ monitors and not $18 full range, there is a HUGE difference in sound quality.

 

[Pistons23]

there are other full ranges than the 12 cent drivers in boom boxes
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8470

I have a 5.1 home theater system made with the 3" version of these and I have two for car audio

i wouldnt consider 60-10k hz full range. definitly would have to pick up some tweets for the highs.

btw, you didnt mention door speakers. so im assuming your truck didnt come with them, correct? i still think some decent 4" coaxials in the dash would be fine. later on you can pick up some 6x9's and throw them in sealed enclosures behind the seats. you just dont seem like the type that wants to go all out. just someone looking for a "better than stock" setup.

 

[Pistons23]

i wouldnt consider 60-10k hz full range. definitly would have to pick up some tweets for the highs.

btw, you didnt mention door speakers. so im assuming your truck didnt come with them, correct? i still think some decent 4" coaxials in the dash would be fine. later on you can pick up some 6x9's and throw them in sealed enclosures behind the seats. you just dont seem like the type that wants to go all out. just someone looking for a "better than stock" setup.

scratch that first part. i guess that is full range for a 4 inch speaker

 

[baxtej44]

you -can- run all your speakers off the head unit. They will be underpowered which is something I don't enjoy doing. If you have stand alone full ranges they will be fine off just the HU and would still probably be fine with rears added. Components are going to be very underpowered off the HU especially if the fulls and rears are in also.

i wouldn't run components, if i had them/got them, off the HU alone.. but i'm thinking that since i'm not buying components that HU power will be okay... especially, what if i get 50w rms 4" coax dash speakers, and then my amp that i get later on pushes out... 80w per channel? then i'm screwed right? i blow my speakers?

i wouldnt consider 60-10k hz full range. definitly would have to pick up some tweets for the highs.

btw, you didnt mention door speakers. so im assuming your truck didnt come with them, correct? i still think some decent 4" coaxials in the dash would be fine. later on you can pick up some 6x9's and throw them in sealed enclosures behind the seats. you just dont seem like the type that wants to go all out. just someone looking for a "better than stock" setup.

my truck came with 2 dash speakers, 2 rear speakers, am/fm radio, and cassette player. (plus a few tapes that my grandfather left in there.. LIKE I NEEDED/WANTED THOSE )

i wouldn't mind getting door speakers eventually, considering i am going to get rid of my rear speakers to be able to fit 1 or 2 subs in the back, with 1 or 2 amps.

 

[baxtej44]

also, hit up a few local places today.. nothing that really struck me, there were a set of pioneers, and a set of kenwoods i think, but nothing that struck me as i want to buy this.

i'm going to buy something offline.. and i'm gonna start lookin today, because i can't stand only listening to my rear speakers right now, THEY SUCK.



gonna try and work on creating my behind the seat space on sketchup today too...

measurements are as follows

52" from wall to wall

7" depth, so from back of cab to the end of the shelf (not the space i have available, JUST the shelf part of it

13" tall, then a 1" protrusion, and another 6" of height... so it looks like this

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comprende? (not typed to scale )

 

[baxtej44]

Sketch up model of a 1988 ford ranger's space behind the seats

 

[baxtej44]

If onlinecarstereo.com says it's new factory sealed... do they MEAN it?


Just trying to figure out what website I want to make my order on... sure crutchfield is probably the most reliable/professional, but they don't always have the best deals.

Need some advice on this, I don't want to end up with refurbished, i want brand new speakers

 

[baxtej44]

Well I hope everyone is having a good Easter weekend so far...

Here's what I have come up with for final decisions:

I'm thinking the infinity kappa's look nice.. they are 2ohms which means they will pull more power and waste less of it on heat correct?


does anybody have preference to any of these?
Anything else I should have included in specifications and what not?

The only thing that is nice about crutchfield is they send me the adaptor plate with any speaker I buy from them correct?



on a side note, i don't have any water leaking or anything, so do i really need baffles? any other accessories I should buy with these? bass blockers? dynamat?