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What size bolts???


Doom's Day Custom

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
845
City
nj
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
I have to replace my stock radius arm bushing in my 96 xlt ranger ... I will use my grinder and a hammer and a punch to get the rivets out but i need to know what size bolts to replace the 4 rivets i think ???If you have a better way to get the rivets please let me know!!!
Oh i will taking pics and will post it up in the tech forum too

thanks ahead of time
jay
 
Gotta do all that to replace the radius arm bushings? Should be easier than that, and without the grinding.

I gotta go peek under my 96 Ranger now.
 
Air chisel and/or torch to remove rivets. But if you want to re-use the bracket, you better be really good with a torch to try that.

I've warmed them with a torch before and knocked them off with a cold chisel and BFH, but that works best if you can work from above the rivet to make sure when it shears off it doesn't come looking to give you a nice lil burn.

Grinders work, but they are not fun to use for that.

7/16 bolts are usually the right size. I usually ream the holes out and use 1/2" though. 1" long or so should be plenty, I usually put a flat washer on each side and a split lock-washer with some lock-tite. Bolts should be Grade 8.
 
7/16 should fit as is, but i agree with reaming them to 1/2" if you can. i used a torch on all of my rivets (every single one on the truck when i did my build), it worked good but you need to be steady with your flame, or youll end up with 'slotted' holes. the other thing i did when fire was out of the question (by the fuel lines) was take my angle grinder with a cut off wheel and cut a deep X into the head of the rivet, then i used my air hammer with a chisel bit and knocked them off that way.
 
Yeah, why in the hell are you removing the bracket? You are gonna have to undo the pivot bolts and some other stuff anyway because you're not going to be able to get the bracket back in place. You're making a bunch more work for yourself.
 
Yeah, why in the hell are you removing the bracket? You are gonna have to undo the pivot bolts and some other stuff anyway because you're not going to be able to get the bracket back in place. You're making a bunch more work for yourself.
Oh?

I had to replace the bushings and brackets in my F-150 just recently. I jacked it up, set the frame on jackstands and tore it down. When I put it back together I just had someone help me manhandle things into position to bolt up and be done. Might have had to pull a bolt on the shocks, don't quite remember, but I didn't have to pull the pivot bolts, which saved some time and effort.
 
The way I have always done it (and it has worked really well) is to remove the pivot bolts, get the axle beams out of their brackets, droop the suspension so you can get the coil springs out of the coil towers, and then pull the axle foward enough that you can get the radius arms out. Put new bushings on, and put it all back together.
 
On my truck and on every Ranger I've ever worked on I've made it
a point to use 1/2" bolts.

But I go a step past that... I use 1/2" bolts with a short unthreaded
shank and I ream the holes so that shank is an "interference fit" in
the hole.

You really don't want those brackets moving relative to the frame.

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