what parts to replace

[swynx]

The truck has started to vapor lock again. It'll barely idle and if you hit the gas it will die. I've realized it only does this on super hot days (105+) and I can hear 3 injectors making a loud tick. When they do the Rpms change.

So I've decided this payday I'm going to replace all 6 injectors get new plug wires. A new fuel pump relay (I've read this is the cause sometimes; couldn't hurt to replace it anyways) and possibly o2 sensors. Any other sensors or doodads I should replace. Iac?

 

[cp2295]

The truck has started to vapor lock again. It'll barely idle and if you hit the gas it will die. I've realized it only does this on super hot days (105+) and I can hear 3 injectors making a loud tick. When they do the Rpms change.

So I've decided this payday I'm going to replace all 6 injectors get new plug wires. A new fuel pump relay (I've read this is the cause sometimes; couldn't hurt to replace it anyways) and possibly o2 sensors. Any other sensors or doodads I should replace. Iac?

vaporlock? it's not carbureted

 

[97RangerXLT]

modern fuel injection uses enough fuel pressure that there is no way vapor lock can happen. if it is dying because it is starving for fuel, I would suspect the fuel pump relay or fuel pump it self is intermittently failing.

Grab a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure at the fuel rail. should be ~50psi if very low, then that would confirm possible fuel pump relay or fuel pump failure

swap the relay out for the horn relay and see if your problems go away. If they do, replace the horn relay (or use your finger when it doesnt work ) If you still have issues, take a look at the pump next.

AJ

 

[97RangerXLT]

if you have plenty of fuel pressure when it is dying, then your coil might be quitting, or possibly your injectors are not firing.

AJ

 

[swynx]

Oddly when it does this I'm pretty sure I can't here my fuel pump. (I turn the key on and off to get fuel to the engine) them I can hear it and it'll start and idle like crap and die. And it idles the same way it did when I pulled the fuel relay to depressurization The system and it kept pulling fuel. So I think my fuel pump is toast. Can I use a universal inline?

 

[adsm08]

modern fuel injection uses enough fuel pressure that there is no way vapor lock can happen.

That is not entirely true. Vapor lock can still occur at very specific times of the year, in early Spring and mid Fall when they are changing the fuel mix.

Winter mix fuel has a lot of butane to help combustibility, but a gas engine can't run on just butane. In spring and fall when they are starting to change the fuel mix out but it is still warm in the afternoon it is possible for the butane to separate itself from the liquid gas and collect at the fuel rail (highest point in the system). This almost always results in an extremely extended cranking period before starting, and does not match the current date, weather, or his symptom.

It's not vapor lock.

I pulled the fuel relay to depressurization The system and it kept pulling fuel.

Now I am pretty sure that I told you not to do that and explained why it breaks things.

The problem with an in-line universal pump is that you still have to drop the tank to remove the old one. If it is dead or dying it creates and obstruction and will burn up the new one PDQ. Pumps are meant to push, not to pull, so as close to the source as possible is ideal.

Since you only seem to have problems above 100* I would suspect a temp sensor before any other kind of issue. You should have 3 relevant ones, one is part of the MAF, one is in the side of the intake, and one is in the lower intake.

Also, O2 sensors are generally recommended as 100K mile items, but beyond that they would probably not be a good use of money here since it seems like all your symptoms occur before the computer even starts paying attention to what the O2 sensors are doing.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I thought the fuel pressure should be at 40psi. I've seen as low as 20 and it still ran but that's not enough for when there is a load on the motor. Your local parts store may have a loan a tool program, get the gauge and test. It's easy, find the schrader valve [looks like a tire air valve] on the fuel rail and connect [with an adapter if needed].
Good luck,

Richard

 

[doorgunner]

annnnnnnnnnnnd don't start throwing new parts under the hood/in the gas tank without testing stuff.....fix the cheepest thang first!

 

[swynx]

Well I've only got 4 days to fix it and almost everything is original so it could use some replacing any ways. And you did say not to depressurize the system that way. I was saying that it does the same thing as when I last did that. Now I just unhooking the fuel line.

 

[swynx]

Are there any specific names for those temp sensors. Or just upper and lower

 

[HAPPY+RANGER+GUY]

If you find that you do have a fueling issue, don't forget about that fuel pressure regulator and of course the fuel filter as well.