What motor do I have?!?!?

[H311RzR]

I just picked up a motor and tranny and was told it was a 302.
The casting number on the block is E6SE, which tells me its an 86 block. Is it in fact a 302? Ive been doing research for a few days and apparently im asking the wrong questions cause only thing I have found is the year. It was hooked up to an AOD transmission. it had a motorcraft TBI setup on it. the intake valley has YY in it. it also has a dual sump oil pan.I just need to know where to look or any identifying factors.
Thanks for the help

 

[RangerSVT]

Do you know what it was out of?? Most likely its a roller 302
SVT

 

[bobbywalter]

sounds like a typical 130 hp vic/bird motor.

 

[baddad457]

E6SE block is a roller block used for several years, starting in 1986. The fact that it's got a TBI setup on it tells me it's got a flat tappet cam in it. Check the heads, look at the front corner of the passenger side head, next to the valve cover. If there's an "S" there, it's got E6SE heads. If there's a "T" there, it's got E7TE heads. With the former, it'll have pistons without valve reliefs. If it's the E7 heads, it'll have pistons with reliefs. It is a 302, to answer your question. The actual year it was cast will be told with the date code, that's found on the bottom flat at the extreme rear of the block. It'll be a number/letter/number code, first number is the year, letter is the month (A thru M, skipping the letter "I") January thru December. The last number or numbers is the day of the month it was cast.

 

[morse johnson]

you prolly have a crown vic motor but whateva it is prolly non ho but a roller block engine and speed density..just change cam and either change over wiring to maf or get a wiring harness for a 90-93 v8 mustang

 

[H311RzR]

thanks for the quick replies guys!! Ill check the heads as soon as I get back in town. Im extremely glad it is a 302. 6*11 is the other number I had, I couldnt read the *, just looked like a big circle. The previous owner said he pulled it out of a station wagon, a country squire I believe is what he said. I will be switching it over to a maf system, and probably doing a little more than just the cam. Im starting with a full tear down, and as I have money ill be buying goodies to put inside. Havent decided the exact route yet, Ill post up a build thread though. Thanks again everyone!

 

[baddad457]

thanks for the quick replies guys!! Ill check the heads as soon as I get back in town. Im extremely glad it is a 302. 6*11 is the other number I had, I couldnt read the *, just looked like a big circle. The previous owner said he pulled it out of a station wagon, a country squire I believe is what he said. I will be switching it over to a maf system, and probably doing a little more than just the cam. Im starting with a full tear down, and as I have money ill be buying goodies to put inside. Havent decided the exact route yet, Ill post up a build thread though. Thanks again everyone!

If it's got the E6SE heads, you're limited on cam and head swaps due to the pistons not having valve reliefs. You can swap heads or swap cams, but not do both at the same time with these pistons.

 

[H311RzR]

If the only thing I was planning to reuse was the bare block I could pretty much do whatever correct? As long as the piston/head combo was compatible? Im thinkin I want to build a good base motor that I could expand on later. A full forged rotating assembly, most likely longer stroke 3.25/3.4 and .03 over bored. If a blower happens to drop into my lap I don't want to have to tear the entire engine apart again. Still doing research on a reliable setup that can handle prob about 500 horse max. I dont want to go crazy but want room to play with it! and the major thing is I only want to do it once...well at least the bottom end. Heads, cam and intake I dont mind swapping as I upgrade.

 

[baddad457]

Yes, starting from the bare block you'll be fine, as long as it can be overbored (I have a 97 Explorer block now that won't go past std due to core shift) As far as that "full forged" bottom end, that's way over rated. Stock Ford cranks (with a very exceptions) have never been known to be weak. And all stock Ford connecting rods are forgings. Forged pistons are also not necessary (unless you spray it or supercharge it) Be that as it may, with your wish to supercharge it and stroke it, I'd suggest starting with an aftermarket block, with the combination of both, you'll reach the limits of the block, well before you will the limits of a forged rotating assembly. Do one or the other, it'll be fine.

 

[H311RzR]

I got the heads off, D80E heads, the pistons do have valve reliefs. Looks like ill be trading out for Gt40P heads. I got to thinking about where I want to go with this motor..gt40/gt40p heads, stroked (3.400 in.), minimal overbore (if necessary) , hydraulic flat tappet cam (idle-5500 range), Edelbrock performer(or equivalent) intake.