What kind of oil do you run in your 4.0L?

[Big Jim M]

Ha! I use what ever is on sale at JiffyLube or Walmart! I think the whole synthetic craze is a hoax and not worth the money. I strongly sispect the vehicles that are delivered with synthetic in them have had it GIVEN to them and didn't have to pay for the oil.
I have 169K on the wifes suburban changing the oil every 6500 miles with the cheapest oil on sale every time. It don't use a drop between changes.
Big Jim

 

[AllanD]

5w-30 Advanced auto parts house brand and a Motorcraft FL1A filter.

I change it every 5000-6000 miles.

AD

 

[Little Egypt]

I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and have since 1998. I use whatever weight the vehicle calls for (5w30 in my 4.0, 5w20 in the wife's CRV). I change about every 5K. I normally run the mobil 1 filter, but I'm trying out the motorcraft filter for this change.

I did some tests with my civic before and synthetic oil ended up giving me a little better mileage (1-2 mpg in the civic - so ~6%). It wasn't much, but every little bit helps. I haven't run any tests with the ranger, but if I get just a little better lubrication, I'm happy.

Cheers,
Aaron

 

[whale]

Castrol 5-30

I run Castrol 5-30
Change oil every 7500 miles, or 6months

Will

 

[whale]

Ha! I use what ever is on sale at JiffyLube or Walmart! I think the whole synthetic craze is a hoax and not worth the money. I strongly sispect the vehicles that are delivered with synthetic in them have had it GIVEN to them and didn't have to pay for the oil.
I have 169K on the wifes suburban changing the oil every 6500 miles with the cheapest oil on sale every time. It don't use a drop between changes.
Big Jim

I don't think its a hoax, especially for something with a turbo. If you use regular mineral oil, go out and thrash a turbo, and not let the oil cool down properly (habitually), you'll end up with a turbo that spins like a ceiling fan.

Will

 

[Big Jim M]

I don't think its a hoax, especially for something with a turbo. If you use regular mineral oil, go out and thrash a turbo, and not let the oil cool down properly (habitually), you'll end up with a turbo that spins like a ceiling fan.

Will

Whale... Turbos were running fine long before synthetic was invented! Granted the things do get hot and depend on cool oil running thru the bearings.. But standard oil should do the trick if the oiling system is up to specs.
Big Jim

 

[timmah]

i run valvoline max life 5w30 synthetic ever since it turned 100k

 

[SoLongStang9499]

I personally prefer Quakerstate non synthetic products in my vehicles, I prefer them because they have an extensive racing backround but their general oil is not intended for racing, but i believe it gives a small edge over many other products. I change every 3-5K because ive seen the effects of sludge in an engine an its not a pretty sight. I also use Engine Restore, I always noticed a difference in my vehicles once i added it to the oil, and i personally swear by it, only product that i know of that has proven to restore compression and over all power restoration.

 

[MAKG]

The GOLD STANDARD is used oil analysis. Try it with synthetic. Try it with conventional. You'll find a significant difference.

As for conventional working in "the old days," an engine lifetime of 100K miles was considered good 40 years ago. Today, it sucks donkeys.

Synthetic is far more resistant to sludge production, has far greater temperature stability, and will not cause detonation with mild consumption. Now, in a brand new 1970 Chevelle, you won't run into these problems with conventional. But a bit of valve guide bellmouthing or cylinder wear (blow-by) will change that.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The GOLD STANDARD is used oil analysis. Try it with synthetic. Try it with conventional. You'll find a significant difference.

As for conventional working in "the old days," an engine lifetime of 100K miles was considered good 40 years ago. Today, it sucks donkeys.

Synthetic is far more resistant to sludge production, has far greater temperature stability, and will not cause detonation with mild consumption. Now, in a brand new 1970 Chevelle, you won't run into these problems with conventional. But a bit of valve guide bellmouthing or cylinder wear (blow-by) will change that.

True but modern conventional oil has come a long ways from 1970 as well.

Plus you have the advent of fuel injection and much tighter/better executed manufacturing processes. Making the fuel managment system self adjusting and overall too complicated for the average person to try to fiddle with probably has helped a lot too. No more idiots taking a 1250 double pumper and trying to get it to work on their 350 and the like.

It isn't right to pin the extended lifespan of a modern engine on oil alone.

I have been running Motorcraft synthetic blend in my F-150, it is priced right and is pretty good oil... available at your local Wal-Mart.

 

[speed_phreak]

I have a 02, which calls for 5w-30. I use mobil1 truck & suv 5w-30.

The little computer at wallys told me i need a motorcraft FL-820S, so what's up with the FL1A filter that everyone is talking about? is it an oversized filter or something?

TIA

 

[exbass94]

I have a 02, which calls for 5w-30. I use mobil1 truck & suv 5w-30.

The little computer at wallys told me i need a motorcraft FL-820S, so what's up with the FL1A filter that everyone is talking about? is it an oversized filter or something?

TIA

The 4.0 OHV uses a FL-1A. The 4.0 SOHC uses a FL-820S. Use the correct filter for your engine.

 

[speed_phreak]

thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

 

[DeanMLFlame]

i've reached 90,000 miles so i switched to high mileage oil...Right Now i'm using Ouaker State HIGH MILEAGE with slick 50 additive...it was cheaper that castrol. plus i was short on cash.​

 

[parson2008]

well considering the ranger is supposed to take sae 5w30 i run that. valvoline baby!