What is this stuff, and where to get?

[4x4junkie]

Doing some body work here... I need some of whatever this caulk or sealer stuff is that Ford uses to seal these joints against water/dust/vibration/etc. (I thought maybe it was simply "seam sealer"... which I tried searching for on Oreilly's site only to be barraged with 100+ very different products (none of which said "seam sealer"), and of course trying to call just results in frustration at the clueless, so I'm not sure what exactly I need).

Hoping someone might have a specific recommendation they can give me (it needs to be paintable also).

Thanks.

 

[bobbywalter]

good ol seam sealer.






crack out the tig.



https://www.eastwood.com/autobody/s...Q11t8GdpYCWsxeSiLUSurLxo9JFDsFhhoCdogQAvD_BwE

 

[adsm08]

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08307-Self-Leveling-Sealer-Cartridge/dp/B000PEW40U/?tag=959media-20

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Use a regular caulking gun. It will cure very fast and stay really soft (which I see as a +plus for panels flexing and still staying sealed) and it can be painted over. For floorpan and firewall seams, I think it works well. Plus it's cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-2013-Joint-Filler-Compound/dp/B007Q0ZQGK/?tag=959media-20


GB

 

[4x4junkie]

F'in' both Autozone and Oreilly's suck

Appreciate the links. The AC Delco stuff Bird76 posted looks exactly like what I need (I need something that will work vertically and is paintable... I'm patching up the inner rear fenders on an Explorer that was trimmed for bigger tires, you can see a small part of what I'm working with at the left side of the pic).

Naturally I still get nothing on Autozone or Oreily's, so looks like I'll have to mail order it.


I also found these, which the reviews seem a little better on:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynatron-Sealer-Repair-filler-trailer/dp/B0711F2Q82?tag=959media-20
https://www.amazon.com/Transtar-4167-Ultra-Black-Sealer/dp/B00H2W3OB6?tag=959media-20
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-29392-Black-Seam-Sealer/dp/B00BI28218?tag=959media-20

Anyone have a preference for any of these as well?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Use whichever brand you want. There's only one rule I'd follow here. NEVER, EVER USE the stuff that Ford used on these Rangers. I've seen dozens of trucks that leaked from the day they were built. Whether it was the 3rd brake light, or around the windshield, or around the cowl area. I swear there are more Ranger's that leak than one's that don't. lol



GB

 

[adsm08]

Use whichever brand you want. There's only one rule I'd follow here. NEVER, EVER USE the stuff that Ford used on these Rangers. I've seen dozens of trucks that leaked from the day they were built. Whether it was the 3rd brake light, or around the windshield, or around the cowl area. I swear there are more Ranger's that leak than one's that don't. lol



GB

You think that is bad? I found an issue once where the 12+ Escapes, with sunroof and roof rack, apparently had a seam that wasn't sealed at all. It was where the roof skin met the framing around the windshield and A-pillar areas. Usually the first indication that the customer had was blue stains on the head liner from washer fluid getting through.

This wasn't a production error, it was a design flaw, and NONE of the vehicles with that configuration had any sealer there. You had to remove the headliner AND the windshield to get in and fix it.

 

[AdirondackRanger]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the same as panel bonding caulk?

 

[Curious Hound]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the same as panel bonding caulk?

I don't think so. I just read up on panel binder and it appears to be a type of epoxy glue used for attaching panels to each other without welding or other mechanical fasteners.

What is pictured originally is a seam sealer. It is applied to seams after the body is welded together. Not sure what material was used on Rangers. But I know that what we apply to seams on BMWs is a PVC based sealer. In the factory, we bake it. But that is probably just to accelerate the curetime so the car can be painted and hour or two later. It doesn't seem to be very flexible in my opinion. Any miscellaneous splatters must be sanded off before painting.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[4x4junkie]

The Ford stuff seems pretty similar... Not hard like an epoxy, but not soft or rubbery like silicone. You can sortof dig your fingernail into it a little bit.


Alright good deal, I know what to look for now.

Thanks guys!

 

[This1Billguy]

Is this the same stuff I want to use to re-seal the rain guards on my '89 Bronco2?

 

[4x4junkie]

^^
I suspect it could work for that (you'll need to paint it afterward, I don't believe it's UV-protected). A silicone or acrylic type caulk would be a lot cheaper though, and probably work just as well or even better (RTV silicone generally isn't bothered by sunlight either).

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

FYI silicone and paint should never see each other. Paint won't stick to silicone. In fact silicone won't stick to cured silicone.

 

[4x4junkie]

Silicone is what I used on mine... Though, no, I didn't paint it afterward.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yeah, if your'e not painting then no problem. Just make sure the area is cleaned of oil residue before applying.