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What is the easiest traction bar to install?


Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
2,080
City
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Automatic
Hello again. Now that the weather is turning warm, it's Ranger time again.

I'd like to do something fun and easy. I'm thinking of drag bars or traction bars for my 3.0 regular cab Edge with an 8.8 rear axle.

I would like something easy to install. Some mentioned that they had to remove the gas tank. Is there anything shorter? A direct bolt on? Cheaper may not always better, but this is certainly not a street rod. Maybe something in the $100-$200 ranger?

What would you recommend? Have you got a picture of yours?

And as always, thanks!
 
...3.0 regular cab Edge with an 8.8 rear axle...

I would like something easy to install. Some mentioned that they had to remove the gas tank. Is there anything shorter? A direct bolt on? Cheaper may not always better, but this is certainly not a street rod. Maybe something in the $100-$200 ranger?

What would you recommend? Have you got a picture of yours?

You said it.

4.0L with 8.8 rear axle here. Don't need them. Don't spend the money on them. I'd recommend installing that $100-200 in the truck in the form of gas in the tank. It'll be more beneficial and more smiles per dollar.

Not, the answer you wanted, but my honest opinion.
 
Honestly I can feel axle wrap in my '97 4 cylinder, it's not enough to be anything like my F350 diesel (at least before I put F250 blocks on the rear axle, it has 4" lift springs all around) or my '90 turbo 4 cylinder was before it's traction bar... I've thought about a traction bar setup but haven't gotten far enough to do it as it doesn't matter on the daily driver...

Slapper bars would likely be the cheapest and easiest, don't know what's out there...

On my '90 the rear suspension is custom so I had to make a custom traction bar, I weaseled it next to the passenger side shock mount between the exhaust and frame with the front mount to the front gas tank crossmember, I have under $100 in it but it's full custom as I just bought the "sleeved bushings" from Rough Stuff and some scrap metal from the metal yard... it works fantastic!

20200411_113642.jpg

20200411_150944.jpg
 
I run flat galvanized steel straps from the frame to the top of the axle. cant get much cheaper than that. I also have single leaf fiberglass springs along with axle coil helpers. Must work cause if I get into the gas too hard in reverse the straps will bend. No problem going forward
96EF3E33-FF2A-4A8A-8766-E1C376F8B8DA.jpeg
 
@racsan, if you change that strap to an angle piece, it will likely prevent it from bending in reverse too.

Do you have any bushings in the ends of that strap?
 
No bushings, should have -yes. But I didnt. On my ‘93 (4x4 4.0) I used chain with a turnbuckle, same idea though. It didn’t really need them though, had a real steel spring pack and was the 5040 gvwr so that axle didnt flex much anyways, even with it being the 4.0 V6.
 
How can a 3.0 make enough torque to cause axle hop? I ran South Side Machine lift bars on my Mustang for a couple of seasons but they made handling hairy on bumps. I ended up buying some spring clamps and bolting them a few inches in front of the spring pads, they worked almost as well on the drag strip and it only took minutes to take them on and off. Caltrack's work good, too and you can loosen the torsion nuts for street driving.
 
Honestly I can feel axle wrap in my '97 4 cylinder, it's not enough to be anything like my F350 diesel (at least before I put F250 blocks on the rear axle, it has 4" lift springs all around) or my '90 turbo 4 cylinder was before it's traction bar... I've thought about a traction bar setup but haven't gotten far enough to do it as it doesn't matter on the daily driver...

Slapper bars would likely be the cheapest and easiest, don't know what's out there...

On my '90 the rear suspension is custom so I had to make a custom traction bar, I weaseled it next to the passenger side shock mount between the exhaust and frame with the front mount to the front gas tank crossmember, I have under $100 in it but it's full custom as I just bought the "sleeved bushings" from Rough Stuff and some scrap metal from the metal yard... it works fantastic!

View attachment 90421
View attachment 90422
Very nice!
 
How can a 3.0 make enough torque to cause axle hop? I ran South Side Machine lift bars on my Mustang for a couple of seasons but they made handling hairy on bumps. I ended up buying some spring clamps and bolting them a few inches in front of the spring pads, they worked almost as well on the drag strip and it only took minutes to take them on and off. Caltrack's work good, too and you can loosen the torsion nuts for street driving.
I get a distinct "thunk" sound and feeling under hard acceleration. I'm not entirely sure if this explanation is correct, but the Edge package comes with lift blocks on the rear axle. I believe that geometry doesn't help.

It's always been this way, but I've made some small modifications too: bigger tires, twin pipes, efan, which may give that little 3.0 a little extra kick.
 
i used to have lakewoods on my 65 mustang. they still sell them and they are probably still decently cheap.

i checked and they are like 90 bucks on amazon
 
I get a distinct "thunk" sound and feeling under hard acceleration. I'm not entirely sure if this explanation is correct, but the Edge package comes with lift blocks on the rear axle. I believe that geometry doesn't help.

It's always been this way, but I've made some small modifications too: bigger tires, twin pipes, efan, which may give that little 3.0 a little extra kick.


lube the driveshaft slip joint, with the special grease.
 
Lakewood makes a traction bar specifically for the Ranger, and no, you don't have to remove the gas tank. LOL. They clamp to the spring in front of and behind the axle. I have the snubber about a half inch from the point of contact. So, that half inch gets used up fast, and then the bar starts working.


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i used to have lakewoods on my 65 mustang. they still sell them and they are probably still decently cheap.

i checked and they are like 90 bucks on amazon

When I bought mine in 2000, they made a set specifically for the Ranger. Because of the axle being underneath the springs, the mounts have to be really long.
 
On my Lightning, I use Johnny Lightning Performance long bars. These are hung below the axle, and the bar extends forward 60 inches to a mount on the frame. These work extremely well, without causing the binding of the leafs like
slapper bars do. I've thought about getting another set and see if they can be adapted to work on the Ranger.

A nice article on traction bars can be found here. https://web.archive.org/web/2016040...htning/race_prep/suspension/traction_bars.htm



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