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What is it?


bilbo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2016
Messages
867
City
South Florida
Vehicle Year
1983
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
I broke something in my engine bay. It threads into the water jacket side of three intake manifold and has 3 vacuum lines going to the plastic part. At least one goes to a round thing that was connected to the egr valve actuator. There is a number on it EIDE-82A but when I searched it all I got were listing service for Eide ford in bismarck. Any help is much appreciated.
 

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I know what it is, but not the part number. It is a thermostatic operated vacuum valve combined with an electrical switch, also possibly controlled by temperature.

Look at the diagram here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143004
Spozta be for 83-84 Ranger 140(2.3l).

The EGR vacuum is disabled until the engine reaches operating temperature, thus the temp sensor into the coolant. The rest is as in the picture, with the addition of electrical control(maybe?) that enables/disables a solenoid valve(charcoal canister purge valve?).
tom
 
It's the VCV in the lower right corner, right? I'm kind of surprised there's no part no. on it. Seems every other ford part in there has a number on it.
 
Another question, if I can't get one for a while will my engine run OK without this part Working? Basically I'd like to do the cam break In and stuff at least but if I must wait I shall.
 
For the most part, it is used for emissions control. I would have no problem doing a cam break-in with the part disconnected, but I would plug the vacuum line.
If there is a connection to the vapor canister, mine has a semi-flexible black tube from the canister to the intake, then I'd try to have that hole plugged at the same time until the switch can be replaced. I think it is enabled by temperature, such that the canister is not vented(nor the EGR operated) until the coolant reaches temperature. Adding extra fuel vapor likely won't hurt, but why have the thing bleed vapors when it is not supposed to until the engine is heated up?
tom
 
Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't way off base. I'll definitely plug the vacuum lines and purge canister until I can get a working switch. I appreciate all the help. If I can ever find a source/part number for this piece I will post it here.
 
I think I may have found it. By chance, I found another name for it, 'ported vacuum switch.' Searching this led me to something that looks awful similar. For reference the one I found is Standard Motor Products PVS22.
 
I searched for 'Standard Motor Products PVS22' and found images that confirm you are definitely close if not there. One imaged had some FoMoCo part numbers listed, but I didn't check them at all. Prices varied, but it seems a bit over twenty will get you there.
Just don't break this one...
tom
 
I'm just hopeful there isn't some difference in the spool or porting that will make it not work. I ordered one and will report back on whether it works or not, and try very hard not to break it. I'm relatively ham-fisted though so no promises! ;)
 
I received the switch in the mail today. It appears identical to the one I broke. Even though it was sold as a SMP product, it looks like a Ford piece. It has what looks like a Ford part no. and the Ford emblem is part of the molded plastic part. Hopefully this helps someone else at some point in the future!
 

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