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What has everybody had to fix on their truck?


What's up with 3rd gear? Where can I find the TSB on it?

Somewhere on this site is the TSB, or a link to it... fur-get where...

4th is the one giving me trouble. Its like I have to shift slowly or I'll grind 4th. The clutch has to come to a stop before I can shift. Not a huge deal though. I might grind it every other day or less.

You could try double-clutching, i.e. release clutch pedal for a quick sec with stick at neutral point and gas backed off to near idle at mid-shift to slow down the clutch end... you can get pretty quick/slick at it with practice, but eventually you'll be checking out those excellent photos in the "rebuild your own tranny" thread. :mad:

I once brazed on some new teeth on a synchronizer. :D To my surprise, it actually worked for the better part of 10 years. But that was a SROD.... This M5OD looks a little more complicated. I think I'll just be REAL easy on it and hope for the best.
 
Thumper, sounds like you got a great deal to start off with. I gave $3500 for mine and the previous owners beat the snot out of it, lol.

If you had it to do again, would you put a D44 in front and a 9 inch in back? On my D44 I put a Detroit with Yukon gears, CTM joints, and Warn premium lockouts.... It seems like a bullet proof axle as long as you get the pinion nice n tight against the ring gear. Oh, that reminds me, I also put the Rock Proof Bulletproof Steering on it. :D
 
'99 RWD 82k

Speed sensor
#5,#6 fuel injectors (both failed electrically this month)
plug in firewall factory forgot to put in (leaking lots of water under driver's feet)
wiper switch
1 plug wire that had end of spark plug break off in it
upper and lower ball joints (this week)
 
So far I have been pretty fortunate (knock on wood) with my truck. It has roughly 123,000miles on it and here is what I have changed:

-Upper and lower ball joints (both sides)
-Tie-rod ends (both sides, need to complain to Belle Tire though, the protector boots are already torn :mad:)
-Passenger side unit bearing (for those with 4 wheel ABS please take care of yours THESE ARE NOT CHEAP! :eek:)
-I killed my clutch fan last summer driving through a silt saturated water-hole so changed that out for an electric fan.

Things I need to change:
-Bed (previous owner tore the outside of it up pretty good)
-Power steering pump or AC compressor (one of them is REALLY noisy)
-Under dash wiring harness (previous owner decided to cut the radio quick connect off and attach the new unit with electrical tape...)
-Driver side door hinges

That about sums it up for my stuff.
 
Last edited:
I got my truck with 80K on it. Since then I have:

Plugs, wires and cap @ 82K
One thermostat @ 126K
concurrently one set of heads @ 126K
Ball joints, upper and lower @ 160K


Been lucky so far, but you all know i have PLANS.....


HE HE HE :stirthepot:

:icon_cheers:
 
Thumper, sounds like you got a great deal to start off with. I gave $3500 for mine and the previous owners beat the snot out of it, lol.

If you had it to do again, would you put a D44 in front and a 9 inch in back? On my D44 I put a Detroit with Yukon gears, CTM joints, and Warn premium lockouts.... It seems like a bullet proof axle as long as you get the pinion nice n tight against the ring gear. Oh, that reminds me, I also put the Rock Proof Bulletproof Steering on it. :D

Last year, I bought a 79 Bronco for the axles so I could do that. I then realized, it already does decent for the trails I like to go on so I sold those to Bloodbane here, he's gonna use 'em soon. The "desire" is still their but after working on cars for a living since '82, it's not much fun for me to tinker & build anymore. I figure I'll just use my truck like I've been using it & have fun with it. When it breaks, I'll fix it eventually :D
 
So far:
-DPFE
-Cam Synch Sensor
-plugs/wires
-ignition coil (open when hot)
-belt tensioner and belt
-thermostat gasket (had to beat the old thermostat out, so thermostat too)
-radiator cap
-heater core
-flush cooling system (get rid of the barsleak)
-one pound of freon
-upper & lower ball joints
-brake job and adjust bearings
-clutch
-slave cylinder
-some lights behind the cluster
-one park light
-set of tires and a rim for the stolen spare
-driver's side door ajar switch
-shift knob
-locking fuel cap
-installed a trailer hitch

Most of it shortly after I bought the truck.

To do list:
-replace the windshield
-fix the tilt on the passenger seat (handle broke off)
-switch to a full-width bed (i hate stepsides)
-transfer case (for low gears)
-get the wal-mart dents fixed and a paint job
 
I once brazed on some new teeth on a synchronizer. :D To my surprise, it actually worked for the better part of 10 years.


:pray::pray: You, sir, are a DIY demi-god, and winner of an "URR, Urr, urr" Award!! :pray::pray:

Wow, talk about beating the tranny "racket" set-up by the Big Three Autos!!

I too have been surprised by the durability of things "rigged" with high-temp silver solder, MAPP gas, and my $25 screw-on torch... but a SYNCHRO!... sheet... kinda raises the bar... pretty much means I gotta at least add any missing teeth to my crank window regulator... epoxy?... rat-tail file?... jeweler's loupe?... LOL.
 
I got my truck with 80K on it. Since then I have:

Plugs, wires and cap @ 82K
One thermostat @ 126K
concurrently one set of heads @ 126K
Ball joints, upper and lower @ 160K


Been lucky so far, but you all know i have PLANS.....


HE HE HE :stirthepot:

:icon_cheers:
It still amazes me that people find it acceptable to have to replace cylinder heads at anything under 200k.
 
My repairs consist of removing the crap Motorcraft brakes and fitting Bendix Ceramic pads with Autospecialty cross-drilled rotors and during that finding my left side hub assembly looser than 60 year old prostitute tang.
 
So far:
-DPFE
-Cam Synch Sensor
-plugs/wires
-ignition coil (open when hot)
-belt tensioner and belt
-thermostat gasket (had to beat the old thermostat out, so thermostat too)
-radiator cap
-heater core
-flush cooling system (get rid of the barsleak)
-one pound of freon
-upper & lower ball joints
-brake job and adjust bearings
-clutch
-slave cylinder
-some lights behind the cluster
-one park light
-set of tires and a rim for the stolen spare
-driver's side door ajar switch
-shift knob
-locking fuel cap
-installed a trailer hitch

Most of it shortly after I bought the truck.

To do list:
-replace the windshield
-fix the tilt on the passenger seat (handle broke off)
-switch to a full-width bed (i hate stepsides)
-transfer case (for low gears)
-get the wal-mart dents fixed and a paint job

What is wrong with your transfer case?
 
im at 90k and other than ball joints and other lift related items i have only replaced the clutch and the cam synchro
 
As of today:

Driver's side upper and lower ball joints
Driver's side tie rods
Pass. side outer tie rod
Rebuilt 4R44E, then an M5OD swap after the second failure
Water pump
Fan clutch
Heater valve
Hub assemblies with PVH disconnects, and later AVMs swapped on
Spark plugs, wires, etc.
Instrument panel bulbs
Brakes, tires, shocks
A/C Compressor and all A/C lines

Things I need to do:
Full exhaust replacement
Shock bushings
P/S pump
Header panel
 
92 3.0 with 160xxx miles. Had it for about 5 1/2 yrs since it had 70xxx

Normal maintinence (plugs wires filters brakes oil ect.)
Left caliper (caught fire)
Right wheel cylinder (try delivering pizza w/no brakes haha)
water pump
clutch at 120xxx
couple power steering pumps
heater core hoses
exhaust (she lived at the beach before i got 'er)
2 starters
honestly most of that is normal wear and tear i think. Still runs like a champ (can chirp it in 3rd with the stock tires haha) 21-22mpg on the highway, go baby go! now that 94 with a 2.3 is a different story (basket case) she's pretty tho. haha.
 

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