What else do we need to buy?

[rfl]

Going to have my son's '93 standard cab long bed lifted. Decided to go with the Skyjacker 6" 236RHKS-AN (http://skyjacker.com/product.php?ProdID=30565). I also ordered a single steering stabilizer, cams for the alignment, brake line extensions, and manual hubs. Will be running 33/12.50R15's on 8" -16 wheels.

Am I missing anything? 4wheelparts will be doing the install so I would like to minimize any 'oh, you need blah, blah, and blah' if possible.

 

[4x4junkie]

You will need a #FA600 drop pitman arm.

See if you can have the FA600 arm substituted for the one that comes in the kit (FA400) and just pay the cost difference, as the one in the kit is much too short to work properly, especially at 6" lift.

Info about this issue here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

A steering stabilizer should not be needed on these trucks if the steering linkage angle is decent.

Some other tips for Skyjacker kits here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Mar04/offroad.htm

Hope that helps

 

[rfl]

Thanks, interesting read. Certainly makes sense as to why they say it is so difficult to align, and premature tire wear just sucks. I will ask them about swapping the part.

 

[Dune Runner]

Shocks, I dont see any in the kit pictured. edit: nevermind, I see them now

 

[4x4junkie]

Thanks, interesting read. Certainly makes sense as to why they say it is so difficult to align, and premature tire wear just sucks. I will ask them about swapping the part.

The other option would be to go with Superlift's Superrunner steering kit (or a custom setup), though the Superlift has to be modified for it to work properly (I think I touched upon the Superlift kit for the article as well). In the end this would be better than the drop pitman arm, as it puts less leverage on your steering box sector shaft, but does require you have a good 220V welder to do the mod. The FA600 pitman arm remains popular due to it's easy bolt-on installation, and unless you plan to be rock crawling and have a locking differential in the front axle, shouldn't present any issues (there's a small chance you may have to bend back the driverside tie rod in a press a very slight amount for clearance during installation however).

No doubt, the steering is a frequent source of complaints on TTB suspensions (frequently with blame put wholly in the wrong places), which is unfortunate, as it doesn't have to be this way.
I can only hope someday the suspension industry might address these issues, but I certainly wouldn't suggest anyone hold their breath (doing so, they would've already passed out 34 years ago lol). Meantime we just have to do our own due diligence.

Good luck with it.

 

[rfl]

We ended up having to replace the RT inner wheel bearing, which also meant we needed replace the remaining 3 just for good measure, which of course took us to finding a knock in the RT outer U-joint, which meant replace all the U-joints, which meant may as well pull the diff an rebuilt it.

[[[[gotta love projects]]]]

With all that, we are doing the lift ourselves (instead of paying 4wheelparts). Front axle is completely torn down now. We are going with the FA600. 4wheelparts would not swap it out (said because the FA400 comes in a kit) so I have a FA400 for sale

We did not replace the outer tie rod ends when the truck was rebuilt in the spring, so we are just going to do them now. Taking the entire linkage off makes it seem like getting the FA600 on will not be a problem.

The kit should arrive mid-to-end of next week. With the us moving on to removing the brackets and then braking lose everything else ahead of time, I fully expect to have the lift completed next weekend.

 

[rfl]

We ran into a few snags, but finally got it done. The FA600 was the way to go for sure, and the cold-roll steal is pretty slick.

Issues:

• Had to grind more off the front axle housing/diff casing than I would have expected.
• The RF shock hits the radius arm when the suspension is fully unloaded, so we need to get limiting straps.
• The front tires rub the fender on a tight turn with a bump, so we are going to have the alignment shop install the adjustable caster/camber bushings to see if they can move it forward enough.
• The rear shackles included with the kit were wrong (radius was 3-1/2" instead of 2-7/8")
• The instructions were vague on installing the right side pivot bracket - the procedure for drilling the holes and location of the backing plate left something to be desired.

The truck is going to the alignment shop in the morning so nothing has been tested other than making sure it is road worthy, but the suspension seems nice and tight and ride is better than expected.

I need to take more photos in the daylight, but this is it sitting next to my stock height 2500...

 

[4x4junkie]

Looks good

If the front axle has to go forward a bit, see if you can do it by shimming the radius arm bushings forward (and/or maybe placing the plastic spacer on the front side rather than behind the bracket). Should be able to get the axle forward a good ½ - 1" this way (trying to do it with the camber/caster bushing won't move the axle any significant amount without also screwing your caster angle all to hell).

A washer or two placed behind the lower shock bushing might be enough to keep it away from the radius arm at droop.