What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I tried wiggling on it as much as I could in that stupid position, and it seemed really tight. But I’ll keep knocking down the clowns until we find the right one.

I wasn’t able to detect the slop in mine until I pulled it and found the bushings were trashed

 

[pjtoledo]

squirt some oil on the cam sensor top bushing.
as the shaft & bushing wear the shaft can bounce around inside the bushing.

the TPS sensor gets 5 volts as the input, needs a good ground.
several sensors get that same 5 volt input.

the purpose of the TPS sensor is to give the PCM an advance warning the throttle has been changed.
the PCM can then adjust fuel before the actual exhaust reaches the O2 sensors.

 

[scotts90ranger]

It's way more complicated than that most likely, the most used parts are the idle setting and WOT to tell it that it should be idling to get the IAC working ahead of being at idle speed and clear flood mode, there's likely a delta TPS setting for acceleration fuel and deceleration fuel and a few other things, the TPS isn't used much for fueling, mostly the rpm and MAF combined with the O2 feedback...

 

[Rick W]

Fuel pressure checks out, new plugs, new wires, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, and some other things. It’s still breaks up under power or when you just rev it high with no load.

I tackled it again today. Or should I say vice versa…

I took off the throttle position sensor, and it looks perfect. A drop of 3in1 oil where it pivots on the inside. Put it back, no difference.

What’s the silver cylinder thing just behind that on top of the engine intake? I took it off and cleaned it, a drop of 3in1, it has two openings on the mounting surface, and a plunger that slides back-and-forth perpendicular to those holes. In any case, it looked perfect. No difference.

I changed the coil pack/spark block. Old one was dirty, but I couldn’t see any thing wrong. It made no difference in the performance. I assume the little black one – wire cube (1/2 inch?) under one of the mounting screws is simply a resistor to keep static out of the radio. Yes/no?

When I got out from under the hood to walk around to the door to start it and see if it made any difference, I tripped on one of my Aluminum channels, and I fell backwards into one of my bushes. Lincoln came over and licked my face while I was laughing. I stood up again. It was the most productive thing I did.

I changed the pressure regulator on the fuel rail. It didn’t make any difference.

I took the throttle body off to check it. Sometime in history, a previous owner had put an aftermarket cruise control unit on the truck. I disconnected that cable and did not connect it back. The regular throttle cable was bone dry at the ball and socket. 3in1 oil on that. When I had the throttle body off, it was pretty carboned up and dirty on the backside.

I cut the bristles off a three-quarter inch paintbrush so it was like a shorty scrub brush, and I cleaned it out as best I could with carb cleaner. I used the carb cleaner to clean the pivots and clean off the springs, and then I put 3in1 dabs on that as well. Made no difference.

Cycling the throttle seems much smoother now, but it still runs like crap when you read it. With all of that, it runs a hair better, but not enough to drive it. When I first started it up after, the idle was very low, didn’t install, but very low. I turned up the idle a little bit, a tiny bit, and since then it’s been idling too high, even though I turned it back down and then some. What’s that about? I sprayed starting fluid around everything I had taken it loose, and I didn’t have any surge, so I think there aren’t any vacuum leaks.

I gave up and cleaned the workbench and I ordered a cam synchronizer. Locally they were from $90 (rebuilt) to $160 and more (plus $44 core charge.). I ordered a rebuilt Cardone on eBay, $29 delivered, no core charge.

It will be here later this week or first of next week. To stay in shape for the job I’m going to take a 3 pound dead blow hammer and smack myself in the head while I’m sitting in the recliner, or bang my head directly on the driveway next to the truck.

I do appreciate all the help.

 

[Curious Hound]

What’s the silver cylinder thing just behind that on top of the engine intake?

Idle air control. IAC

 

[Rick W]

Idle air control. IAC

Thanks, ordered one.

Another question. Getting to that cam synchronizer was hard enough to replace the sensor cap, but I’m not comfortable trying to pull it out and then put it in and get it registered properly since I can’t see it at all. I kind of know I could probably do that, but a big pain in the butt, but here’s the question:

If I take off the upper intake manifold, I’m going to be looking right at it correct?

And if I take off only the upper intake manifold, the plastic part, can I then change the injectors? I already bought them, but I’ve been trying everything else first. At this point, I’m thinking just go the distance.

Thanks in advance

 

[scotts90ranger]

Tonight I decided to start tackling the list of items on the '90 Ranger, turns out the trip starts on the 21st so getting there...

Started off on the drivers door since that was quick, I've had the outer window seals for like 7 years, for some reason I looked before and decided they were stapled on but no, only tool required was a slide hammer to knock the old one out... dumb me...

Then I tried to figure out why it's harder to roll the window down than up, no idea, I think the regulator thing has some rust or something, well looking on Amazon a replacement is $42 and there's supposed to be a spring so that's probably broken... it'll work fine then jam up... will probably just order one...

Also lubricated the door latch and lock, it even moves now!

 

[superj]

put gas and drove to work and home

at least the weather has been nice. mid 70s to low 80s with a cool ocean breeze

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks, ordered one.

Another question. Getting to that cam synchronizer was hard enough to replace the sensor cap, but I’m not comfortable trying to pull it out and then put it in and get it registered properly since I can’t see it at all. I kind of know I could probably do that, but a big pain in the butt, but here’s the question:

If I take off the upper intake manifold, I’m going to be looking right at it correct?

And if I take off only the upper intake manifold, the plastic part, can I then change the injectors? I already bought them, but I’ve been trying everything else first. At this point, I’m thinking just go the distance.

Thanks in advance

Taking off the plastic upper intake will give you a lot more room to work and see what’s going on. It’s still going to be down kinda behind the lower intake but you shouldn’t have to pull the lower intake.

That said, lower intake vacuum leaks are a thing with the 4.0, so maybe smoke test the intakes before tearing things apart, if you have a lower intake leak this would be the time to resolve it.

Fuel rail is sandwiched between upper and lower intakes. Now that I’m thinking about it, there are studs that hold that all together. They clamp the fuel rail and lower intake down, takes an external Torx socket to remove. Might be better to just figure on replacing the lower intake gasket anyway since pulling injectors will disturb the seal.

Have you tested the new fuel injectors? With a valve stem, can of carb cleaner and a 12v power source then setting up a piece of cardboard you can clean and check the spray pattern.

When you do the cam synchro assembly, you want the motor at TDC and use an alignment tool on the lower assembly when you drop it in. As much of a pain as it is, it’s easier to deal with than a distributor because it’s shorter and smaller and with the engine at TDC and the alignment tool, you just drop it in and tighten the hold down. No fiddling with timing.

I often throw a foam mat on the front of the truck so I can sort of lay against it instead of trying to uncomfortably reach and work on things towards the back of the engine bay. Been really considering getting a “topside” creeper because that looks a lot more comfortable than even what I’m doing. I’m still working on gravel so creepers of any sort don’t work at all which is about the only reason why I haven’t got serious about getting one.

 

[Rick W]

Taking off the plastic upper intake will give you a lot more room to work and see what’s going on. It’s still going to be down kinda behind the lower intake but you shouldn’t have to pull the lower intake.

That said, lower intake vacuum leaks are a thing with the 4.0, so maybe smoke test the intakes before tearing things apart, if you have a lower intake leak this would be the time to resolve it.

Fuel rail is sandwiched between upper and lower intakes. Now that I’m thinking about it, there are studs that hold that all together. They clamp the fuel rail and lower intake down, takes an external Torx socket to remove. Might be better to just figure on replacing the lower intake gasket anyway since pulling injectors will disturb the seal.

Have you tested the new fuel injectors? With a valve stem, can of carb cleaner and a 12v power source then setting up a piece of cardboard you can clean and check the spray pattern.

When you do the cam synchro assembly, you want the motor at TDC and use an alignment tool on the lower assembly when you drop it in. As much of a pain as it is, it’s easier to deal with than a distributor because it’s shorter and smaller and with the engine at TDC and the alignment tool, you just drop it in and tighten the hold down. No fiddling with timing.

I often throw a foam mat on the front of the truck so I can sort of lay against it instead of trying to uncomfortably reach and work on things towards the back of the engine bay. Been really considering getting a “topside” creeper because that looks a lot more comfortable than even what I’m doing. I’m still working on gravel so creepers of any sort don’t work at all which is about the only reason why I haven’t got serious about getting one.

I ordered the alignment tool, it should be here at the same time as the synchronizer. But another question.

The procedure I saw online, on a video, said that after you take the cap off the synchronizer, mark where the “C” riser is in the synchronizer, and then mark where the synchronizer is held into the engine. I’ve done that kind of thing before successfully on cars and various machinery

Here’s the question. If it is out of position and I crank the engine, will it hurt anything? Or is it just a matter of not starting or maybe running rough? Will I grind anything up?

Second question, does the timing have to be set “precisely” like the old days when you set something at 4° before top dead center with the timing light or such? Or does the “brain” on these “new” 1997 trucks take care of that automatically if it’s in pretty much the correct position?

And thank you thank you thank you…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I ordered the alignment tool, it should be here at the same time as the synchronizer. But another question.

The procedure I saw online, on a video, said that after you take the cap off the synchronizer, mark where the “C” riser is in the synchronizer, and then mark where the synchronizer is held into the engine. I’ve done that kind of thing before successfully on cars and various machinery

Here’s the question. If it is out of position and I crank the engine, will it hurt anything? Or is it just a matter of not starting or maybe running rough? Will I grind anything up?

Second question, does the timing have to be set “precisely” like the old days when you set something at 4° before top dead center with the timing light or such? Or does the “brain” on these “new” 1997 trucks take care of that automatically if it’s in pretty much the correct position?

And thank you thank you thank you…

I didn’t mark anything. All you need to do is have the engine at TDC and drop the synchro in with the alignment tool on top, tighten down the synchro, swap the alignment tool for the sensor and it’s done. The engine at TDC and the alignment tool sets the initial timing, no timing light needed.

Technically, you could pull the sensor off and turn the engine by hand until the alignment tool fits in place and swap like that, but if it’s spun, that won’t work. Better to be safe and set the motor at TDC.

If it’s out of position but the crank sensor is good, it will still run, but in the default closed loop. It will likely run rich.