What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Bill]

I got a cracked windshield. I was driving on Hwy 50 and noticed something sparkly bounce across the back of a flatbed trailer. It ended up hitting my windshield causing a four inch long shatter where it impacted the windshield. The force of the impact also made a long clean crack from top to bottom about 24 inches from where the impact occurred. I noticed something else fall off the flatbed a few minutes later.

 

[RobWigglezz]

Just finished investigating a clunk in the rear end. Passenger rear axle seal is starting to weep and might have excessive endplay. All my indicators are at work but it's probably between .020" too .040". It's the smaller rear end, not 8.8. Too cold to check driver side but I will tomorrow and bring an indicator home.

*Edit, the picture is after I brake cleaned and sprayed some penetrant by the seal only. That's why it looks so wet. But there was a trail of fluid coming from the bottom of the seal when I first pull the drum off

 

[Curious Hound]

The 7.5" is still a C-Clip axle. Roughly 1/8" (give or take) end play is normal.

 

[RobWigglezz]

The 7.5" is still a C-Clip axle. Roughly 1/8" (give or take) end play is normal.

Thanks. At most it's probably .050" so I'm good. I just got back from O'Reilly's with 2 axle seals and some rtv. Only rust on my truck is the corners of the bed from leaves under the plastic liner. But my axle end sure did get pretty flaky.

 

[pjtoledo]

while it's apart bearings would be a good idea.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks. At most it's probably .050" so I'm good. I just got back from O'Reilly's with 2 axle seals and some rtv. Only rust on my truck is the corners of the bed from leaves under the plastic liner. But my axle end sure did get pretty flaky.

Yeah, I’m with PJ, I replace the bearings when the seals go. I usually examine the axle shafts while it’s apart and sometimes use the repair bearing and seal. Also, the Ranger 7.5” rear and 8.8” rear both use the same bearings and seals at the ends of the axle tubes. Some parts stores try to sell F-150 bearings and seals for the 8.8” in the Ranger.

 

[Rick W]

Oh wise ones, riddle me this one, an oddball….

When the temperature goes down below about 30° at night, and I drive out in the Missing Linc (87 2.9 stick), I have no brake lights. Once the heater is blowing for about 10-15 minutes and the inside warms up a little bit, then the brake lights work like they always have. I’m not sure if it’s warming under the dash by the switch that’s the issue, or something under the hood when the engine warms up.

Let me digress and say that I put fender mounted indicators wired to the brake lights on the front of my hood. I always put a fuse between the truck and a trailer, and I wire those indicators from the trailer brake light circuit. It’s how I know if the trailer lights are working. But you can also see how the brake lights are working in general.

I’m planning on replacing the pedal switch, but I’m wondering if anybody else has had this problem. I’ve never seen something like this before, the switch always seems to work or not work, but not be stubborn when it’s cold.

Any and all comments are welcome

 

[Curious Hound]

Are you sure that none of the brake lights work? You could remove the trailer light fuse. If the truck brake lights work, then you know the problem is in the trailer circuit. If the truck lights don't work, you know the trailer circuit us not the problem. I’d start with that test to cut the problem in jalf.

 

[superj]

maybe the switch is just sticky since its cold? they are spring loaded right? maybe the spring metal is not working hte cold so well