What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[pjtoledo]

assembling a front diff.
us 'ol farts need bigger tools to get the job done.

the yolk had a seal wear groove. rather than buying a new one I put a .050 shim behind it.
with the effective depth of the yolk now increased by that .050 I decided to re-use the old crush sleeve.
it put up a good fight, needed the 3/4 drive stuff.

the break away is about 13-15 inlbs, constant rotation 5 inlbs. that's just the pinion on used bearings.

 

[scotts90ranger]

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I spent the last few days of my Christmas vacation assembling the rebuilt 2.3 for my truck at a buddies auto shop. I bought this engine off another Ranger enthusiast who had rebuilt it ~20k ago and had it setup for a turbo. He pulled it to swap in a 5.0. He did a quality build of .030 overbore with forged pistons, tapped the block for a return oil line, ARP fasteners throughout, and a new head. Unfortunately, he attempted to lap the valves in himself and did not do the best job (which he warned me about). When I pulled the head, the valves for cylinder #3 had heavy carbon buildup from not sealing correctly.
Luckily, I was able to have a reputable machine shop go through the head thoroughly. They found no issues other than improper valve installation, so they were able to reuse the valves and lap everything so that they seal correctly.
This head and block are from a 96 Ranger, so I get to deal with making the 89 electronics work on the 96 engine. My buddy and I are planning to complete the swap either next weekend or the weekend after.
Wish me luck!

Sounds like a solid plan but a few details I would warn about and question...

With the forged pistons, what compression ratio are they? Are they the circle track pistons that can be around 9:1 or something like the stock forged pistons at 8:1? If less than 9:1 it's likely to be pretty doggy...

I would suggest going to the older style water pump so you don't need that stupid inlet tube, I haven't checked but I "think" they're the same bolt pattern, I could check later this weekend since I have an old block and a used new style water pump...

I would highly suggest having a spare '89-94 crank sensor and bracket handy and installed while you're at this stage or before... unless you have the newer style computer and harness to update the rig... from the looks of it you're going to have to pull the timing belt and inner cover thing to get to where the holes will need to be...

 

[MT_PLS]

Sounds like a solid plan but a few details I would warn about and question...

With the forged pistons, what compression ratio are they? Are they the circle track pistons that can be around 9:1 or something like the stock forged pistons at 8:1? If less than 9:1 it's likely to be pretty doggy...

I would suggest going to the older style water pump so you don't need that stupid inlet tube, I haven't checked but I "think" they're the same bolt pattern, I could check later this weekend since I have an old block and a used new style water pump...

I would highly suggest having a spare '89-94 crank sensor and bracket handy and installed while you're at this stage or before... unless you have the newer style computer and harness to update the rig... from the looks of it you're going to have to pull the timing belt and inner cover thing to get to where the holes will need to be...

Compression ratio is still 9.4:1, according to the guy I bought the engine off of. He ran it for almost 20k without ever installing a turbo.

I was under the impression that the water pump bolt pattern changed in when they went to OBDii. If you can verify, that would be fantastic.

I jumped the gun getting the t-belt installed and did not have an 89-94 crank sensor on hand. The plan is to pull my current motor and transfer all the necessary parts onto the new motor before reinstalling, so it shouldn't be to terrible (hopefully). Pulling the t-belt should go quickly.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Compression ratio is still 9.4:1, according to the guy I bought the engine off of. He ran it for almost 20k without ever installing a turbo.

I was under the impression that the water pump bolt pattern changed in when they went to OBDii. If you can verify, that would be fantastic.

I jumped the gun getting the t-belt installed and did not have an 89-94 crank sensor on hand. The plan is to pull my current motor and transfer all the necessary parts onto the new motor before reinstalling, so it shouldn't be to terrible (hopefully). Pulling the t-belt should go quickly.

I just pulled the water pump on one of the older blocks I have and tried the newer style pump on it and the top two bolts are in the same spot but the bottom bolt did move down a bit. I would be tempted to make a thread plug to put in the block (it's a through hole into the water jacket) with thread sealant or red loctite and drill and tap a new hole using a water pump for a template... that way you don't have to move the alternator to the other side and do a bunch of other silly stuff... it would all depend on what external accessories you got with the thing...

 

[Rick W]

View attachment 121875

code said the carbon canister vacuum line was leaking, again……

View attachment 121876

Scary Baby helped me to troubleshoot. I already replaced most of the vacuum line up to the head. The elbow on the left is a “part“ not a vacuum line, but I took out the play with a hose clamp.

The vacuum tube on the right was hard, and I could easily spin it on the fitting. I replaced it with a new vacuum line.

View attachment 121877

I reset the computer.

I’ll give you the results in a day or two.

oh wise ones.

The check engine light came back on pretty quickly. The error message and proposed cure is to replace the vacuum line between the evaporative canister and the head of the engine. All of that has been replaced, but it still didn’t fix the problem.

Any suggestions?

 

[sgtsandman]

oh wise ones.

The check engine light came back on pretty quickly. The error message and proposed cure is to replace the vacuum line between the evaporative canister and the head of the engine. All of that has been replaced, but it still didn’t fix the problem.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bill]

I spilled a 32oz soda when the light turned green because some genius at Pilot thought it was a good idea to have soda cups with a narrow bottom, making it top heavy. And another genius at Ford thought a wide and shallow cup holder was a good idea. As soon as I moved forward the top of that cup tipped over.

And "spilled" looked like it is spelt incorrectly when I typed it, so I though it was an irregular spelling and I should use "spilt." It turns out both are correct.

 

[DeeRanger]

I left my Ranger parked in the garage while I shoveled the driveway for it.

 

[superj]

Dropped the 04 ranger at the dealership for an airbag recall. They said they will call when its done.


Hopefully they have someone who can drive a stick.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Picked up a few bags of mulch.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's more than a few. How much weight is that?

 

[sgtsandman]

That's more than a few. How much weight is that?

If it isn't riding the bump stops, you ain't tryin'.

 

[SenorNoob]

If it isn't riding the bump stops, you ain't tryin'.

I ran for awhile without rear bump stops for that reason. lol

 

[Saddle Tramp]

They had a good amount of moisture in them so I'd say 40 pounds per bag and 30 bags plus two 5 gallon buckets of paint. Exterior latex

Yep it was on the bump stops.

 

[SenorNoob]

1200lbs shouldn't have been near the bump stops. You need springs.