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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


Wheel locks, like locks on a vehicle or tool box deter or slow down a more “honest” thief. So, they still have their use but not as much as they once did.
 
Unfourtunately wheel theft still is a thing. I've seen it a few times lately. Accord sport wheels are a super hot item. "Real" aftermarket wheels, too.
 
Went out driving in it. Wanted to explore some roads I haven't been on before. But apparently it isn't "road season".

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Got the pesky wheel lock off with too much damage to it. Hammered a 12pt socket on… of course the brakes were greased and moving smooth because I lubed everything and made sure it worked right when I did the wheel bearings a couple weeks ago. Outside pad looked brand new, inside pad was g-o-n-e. Caliper piston pushed back in nice and easy. No idea what happened unless the bonded pad came unbonded. Threw a cheap pair of pads on just to be back mobile. Went to start on the red Ranger and it decided to rain, so I’m in a holding pattern
 
Water in the fuel cell, broken crank trigger, bent and broken rearend to leaf spring bolts and only one full pass all weekend but still got deep enough in the 7s that we're going to need a roll bar now. Could not be any happier with the new combination....

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Traction bar bolts didn't get along very well with the new transbrake. No markings on the heads so they were obviously the lowest quality(cheapest) bolts the previous owner used to bolt it all together. Local Industrial Supply store gets a visit in the AM for some new ½" X 7" fine thread grade 8s with nylock nuts.

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Airing up is over rated, my '90 has been at like 10psi since April... conveniently I trailer it mostly anymore so it's fine that way on the trailer... I need to drive it more, I miss it, if it didn't leak so much dang oil...
 
after destroying a torrington bearing, bending a bolt, then stripping the threads off 2 other bolts, then stretching some all-thread, I decided to go buy a real tool
to install the PS pulley. worked OK. Helpful Hint, run a tap in to clean the shaft and be sure to screw the bolt ALL the way in.

then attempted the lower radiator hose for a 2000 3.0
the replacement Dayco was too long and the smaller hose was angled wrong, it hit the accessory drive belt.
trimming big hose and re-orienting the small hose fixed that.
although I'm a big fan of the spring clamps, the top of the lower radiator hose is much better served with a worm style clamp.
 
Just got back from a test drive of the 2011 about 15 minutes ago. It looks like it’s fixed and I didn’t forget to connect anything. No warning lights or bad sounds. So, I’m calling it fixed.

The “no bench bleed needed” clutch master cylinder might need a bench bleed but it’s drive able. So I won’t have to call off work tomorrow. The master cylinder is easy compared to all I had to go through to change the clutch slave cylinder.
 
Drove the '97 on a ~200 mile round trip to pick up a spare blown twin plug 2.3L from Maui-sprint's friend. Not a bad drive, it was over 90F anyway so wouldn't have been doing anything at home anyway... Turns out with only one window down all the way there isn't any wind turbulence in the cab at 70mph so it wasn't too bad.

Couple oddities on the trip, Ranger related for whatever reason the "Check Gauges" light on the dash goes on for a few seconds about every 1-2 minutes while you are cruising at 3000rpm, whether that's why or not I'm not sure. All I know is I was trying to keep at or below 3000rpm with 4.10 gears and 28" tires that means ~73mph which is fine with me, I was passing people and getting passed like I was standing still at times...

The other thing with the Ranger is I'm not sure if my legs were getting numb but the clutch pedal didn't feel right, like it might be dragging when I let off the pedal... the master is under a year old... also feels like my clutch is going to give out in the near future, it disengages as soon as you move the pedal... it holds solid for now but I might as well order the parts...

One of the semi's I passed was just about to lose a couple of it's 4x4's they keep in the braces under the deck of a flatbed trailer, I got around him as soon as I could...
 
Damage was a little more extensive that we first thought.

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The 2011 is driving true to and from work (26 miles round trip) and no ID10T lights or offensive noises. One more round trip to confirm but it looks like it's been fixed.
 
Drove it to work at my new job for the first time, then ran it home and threw my last rock slider on it.
 

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