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What could be causing the yeast problems on my 98 Ford ranger


I definitely agree. But here's the problem I have to borrow the money since I'm on a fixed income from my folks and they trust this guy. Don't ever use A&B automotive in Norman Oklahoma
 
Could be anything. Need to test things. Fuel pump wont cause a single cylinder miss but could cause a lean code and poor running.
 
One thing that just popped into my mind could it be a fuel pump?
No if it was the fuel pump it wouldnt run period.

Try dumping some lucas fuel injector cleaner down the tank. See if it helps. Sounds like you have a sticking closed injector.

Also, dont be afraid to hammer on it once in a while, putt puttin around all the time can cause things to get gummy, im not saying you gotta drive like bo duke, but a full throttle 45-65mph run now and again is helpful.
 
I've often likened an automobile to a computer for some people, the CPU being its engine, the RAM how fast it could get there and HDD how much it could carry, or some such BS, but it isn't really difficult to liken a computer to a vehicle.
Surely you've twisted wrenches somewhere at some time, that's about as simple as lefty loosy and righty tighty ;)
If you add up the cost of a repair manual and a set of tools and subtract it from what they've charged you this far, think about how many parts you could have put on it yourself :D

One example, and I rarely turn to a shop, even being the novice I am, but mine wouldn't pass emissions, and to have it tested was going to cost me $250, simply to test it(and possibly give me a clue). After studying the emissions system I found there were 5 basic senders it could be, each one costing appx $50.
I took my best guess and replaced that one, took it back to emissions, and it passed, the very first one! :D
 
Okay I understand it's not the fuel pump.

How do I check the oxygen sensor before I go buy one.
 
Hook your back probes to the o2 sensor signal wire and ground, set your dmm to 1 volt scale and start the car. Verify the system enters closed loop with your obd2 scanner then double check by testing the catalytic converter temp is over 650 with a infrared thermometer. The voltage on your dmm should swing rapidly between .1 and .9 volts. If it doesn't the sensor is bad. Then run propane through the intake and check the numbers again, the voltage should increase quickly. If not the sensor is bad.
 
I just got ahold of the mechanics brother he thinks there's carbon on the O2 sensor. Where would the ground be. Would that be on the frame?
Is he going down the right path
 
If it's a 4 wire bosch sensor grey wire is ground, black is signal. White are heater wires. But FYI your computer knows if the o2 voltage is wrong and will throw a code for signal voltage low or high. As Ron pointed out you have a heater circuit code which does not effect the engine at all. The heater just gets the sensor up to operating temp faster so the system can enter closed loop mode near instantly to reduce emissions.

I've seen instances where people just throw in cheaper 2 wire unheated sensors and cut the heater wires off. It throws a code but does nothing to the engine performance.
 
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Okay is there any good applications for OBD2 for Android? I ask this because I'm on a fixed income.
 
this is a another scan tool I found
 

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Those are not difficult to replace, just need a 7/8 I think open end wrench
 
So it's problem definitely my O2 sensor?
 
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Sure, why not.
 

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