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What brand oil do you guys recommend?


Personally, Ive used Havoline 10w-30 for years and havent had any trouble. I try to change the oil around 3-4k.

I may try out the blends soon though.
 
i use 0-30 mobil one for fuel mileage and about 5000 miles in between changes or before a long trip
 
Uhm No...... if you don't know your cold start weight is the highest number, then I wouln't listen to a damn thing u advise.Frank

Yes Frank, you are wrong. The "W" stands for winter.
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/...visor__what_does_sae_10w30_actually_mean.aspx

More info here:
http://pubs.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/84/8411oil.html

and here:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/114482-base-oil-technology-group-i-iv-what-it-all-means.html

and here:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
 
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:icon_confused: yeah your right, I guess I just heard that "myth" all my life and thought it was right.

Your correct I am incorrect, makes sense. I apologize.

Frank
 
Pennzoil is parafin based, basically wax. If you want the inside of your engine to build up with an incredible amount of sludge, then run it. The last engine I tore down that ran Pennzoil exclusively had nearly 5lbs of sludge/wax inside of it. The engine was nearly wiped out due to the oil pickup screen being 90% clogged with wax.

Pennzoil is crap. Valvoline and Wix filters are all my vehicles see and ever will see.

You do realize that ALL conventional oils are paraffin based right? Yes, even your beloved Valvoline. May I ask when (what year) you tore this engine down?
 
The first engine that I tore down was in 01'. The second was in 06'. The first was nearly wiped out due to sludge buildup on the oil pump pickup. The second was locked up. It actually froze up after shutdown--no scoring, wasn't run low on oil. Near as I can figure, the wax in the oil separated and hardened after engine shut down--locking the engine up. There was a hard wax like coating over everything inside the crankcase.

Both engines used Pennzoil exclusively.
 
Went with Quaker State 5W-20 and a Purolator! I'm changing the oil this weekend or next week.
 
Pennz and Quaker State had a reputation of "sludging." This was using old refining methods. It was a myth then, and it is a myth now. Most of the oils in the older days would sludge with age. That is why oil changes of 2 to 3k miles was recommended.

Some of the newer engines also have sludging problems. Mercedes is one. It is due to engine design, not oils, as they sludge with different brands.

All conventional oils are paraffin based. This is not the same paraffin as the wax used in candles as many think.

Engine oil does not "wear out." It becomes contaminated. If you clean it out, put the additive package back in, it can be re-used. Re-refined oil used to be commonplace, but I don't see it much anymore, especially around here. It works well in industrial applications where the engines are operated at a steady speed.

In the old days, oil grades were determined by the base crude. The best crudes were the "sweet crudes" in the Pennsylvania region. Next best were the Mid-Continent crudes, then the Coastals. Most crudes from the mid east are sweet crudes, so this distinction is not so important anymore. Plus, better refining methods, and additives make for a much superior oil.

Personally, I use Super Tech synthetic in all my vehicles, and have never had an oil related problem. I use the dreaded Fram filter, Super Tech, Motorcraft, whatever is handy. I have been working on automobiles for years and years, so I am not anal when it comes to lubrication.:)shady
 
i thought the "W" stood for the weight???

No, no, no. W stands for winter, as in how well the oil flows when it's around freezing temperatures. For example, a 5w30 flows better when it's freezing than a 10w30, because 5 is a smaller number than 10. But, they are both the exact same viscosity (30 weight) when the engine is at operating temperature.
 

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