What brand oil do you guys recommend?

[Rearanger]

I have just had bad luck with engines and penzoil. something in it clogs oil galleys.

In what century? I think you have other axes to grind.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1331076

 

[pishamus]

AIRMASTER! Asking a bunch of gearheads about their oil/filter choices is like starting an arguement over gun control or religion. You're going to get all different kinds of responses and none of them will totally agree. My choice of oil/filters/schedule is not like theirs so why join in this three legged horse race.

 

[elgato]

Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend,motorcraft filter. Highly rated blend at a great price. You can get it in jugs at Walmart. Ford obviously recommends it.

 

[Blackedge03]

Motorcraft 5w-20 synthetic blend,motorcraft filter. Highly rated blend at a great price. You can get it in jugs at Walmart. Ford obviously recommends it.

Exactly.

 

[Jay FX4]

I will probably end up sticking with Motorcraft also. It's a blend, so you don't have to decide whether you want "real" or "fake", it's what Ford wants you to use, and it's cheaper than all the other name brands.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I picked up a jug of 5W-20 Mobil 1 synthetic at Wally World today,
along with a couple of Motorcraft filters.

Castrol 10W-30 has gone into my other vehicles for years now,
with lots of miles and no oil consumption between 4K changes.

The reason I chose synthetic for the 3.0 is because of the
recommended 5W-20 weight oil. This is lighter weight oil than
I'm used to, so I figured the extra protection of synthetic
might be worth the peace of mind.......???

Another reason is because of the high failure rate of the cam
synchronizers. Maybe the synthetic will find it's way to the upper
bushing of the synchro easier than conventional oil.....????

 

[Jay FX4]

I recommend NOS for teh horse powaz!!!!

 

[Froggmann]

Pennzoil is parafin based, basically wax. If you want the inside of your engine to build up with an incredible amount of sludge, then run it. The last engine I tore down that ran Pennzoil exclusively had nearly 5lbs of sludge/wax inside of it. The engine was nearly wiped out due to the oil pickup screen being 90% clogged with wax.

Pennzoil is crap. Valvoline and Wix filters are all my vehicles see and ever will see.

 

[Frank The Tank]

Halvoline Deposit Shield 10-30 on lower mileage then I go to 15-40 after I break 200k, or my compression drops,

when I get above the 300k mark I plan to run 80-90 gear lube, lol.

I run fram oil filters on stock vehicles ( amsoil, on high pressure systems )

I would love to start a vehicle on sythetic one day and stick with it, but it's not worth the money to me.

Frank

 

[Rearanger]

Pennzoil is parafin based, basically wax. If you want the inside of your engine to build up with an incredible amount of sludge, then run it.

All I can say is listen to the guys with real oil knowledge and not just myths.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1131253&fpart=1

Clink on reference links in the posts.

 

[Airmaster]

I'm just about to come up to my oil change and I've decided to change oil every 4k. I am still considering which brand to go with.

Many people are telling me to go with Mobil1 synthetic, but at it's cost, is it REALLY worth the benefits?

Also, I've done more research on Penzoil and I honestly feel I'd feel fine using it. Those wax stories are old.

I've also looked at Quaker State, how do you guys feel about that brand, my dad has been using it in all his cars/Jeeps recently and he told me he loves it.

Again, whatever brand and type oil I choose, Ima stick with till I get to really high mileage, then I will obviously change...

 

[Froggmann]

All I can say is listen to the guys with real oil knowledge and not just myths.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1131253&fpart=1

Clink on reference links in the posts.

I'm not going by myths, I'm basing my statement on what I've seen time and time again. Run Pennzoil exclusively for a long time, then tear down the engine and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Rearanger]

and I've decided to change oil every 4k. I am still considering which brand to go with.

The only way synhtetic pays is if you do extended oil changes, and the only way you'll know for any oil is with used oil analysis (UOA). You can use just about any oil with confidence and UOA to back up your choice. Oil preferance discussions are useless as usually none use science to justify opinion. I use Mobile 1 because it's easily available and OK price at Walmart, but I have several UOAs to back up my choice and the oil change interval of about 6k. Right now I use 0w-30 as I like the lower viscosity on start-up AND I get great wear numbers using it. You'd be better to pay closer attention to your oil filter than the oil.

 

[Frank The Tank]

The only way synhtetic pays is if you do extended oil changes, and the only way you'll know for any oil is with used oil analysis (UOA). You can use just about any oil with confidence and UOA to back up your choice. Oil preferance discussions are useless as usually none use science to justify opinion. I use Mobile 1 because it's easily available and OK price at Walmart, but I have several UOAs to back up my choice and the oil change interval of about 6k. Right now I use 0w-30 as I like the lower viscosity on start-up AND I get great wear numbers using it. You'd be better to pay closer attention to your oil filter than the oil.

He's right, cold start weight is bottom number.

Frank

 

[Ozwynn]

I think your wrong Frank.

the lower number means it performs like that weight at colder temps.

10W-30 and SAE 30 perform the same at 210*F so how could the higher number be the cold weight?