What bolts and where to mount on engine stand?

[DaddysTruck]

I'm about to have my 2.8 ready to come out. The engine stand I bought at HF didn't come with any mounting bolts. Not sure if the transmission bolts will be long enough, or if I will need to buy some. Not sure where the best place to mount on the engine is either. I don't want to end up cracking the block.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you look on the stand you can see where the bolts go through, add 3/4" and that's the bolt length you need. 1/8" for washer and the rest into block. When you bolt to the block, try to figure where the center of the weight is and have the round tube at that point. You want to be able to rotate the block without straining yourself.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

If you look on the stand you can see where the bolts go through, add 3/4" and that's the bolt length you need. 1/8" for washer and the rest into block. When you bolt to the block, try to figure where the center of the weight is and have the round tube at that point. You want to be able to rotate the block without straining yourself.

Or dumping the stand over.

IIRC I had two to the widest holes and two to the two holes at the top.

 

[adsm08]

I have the 2-ton foldable stand from HF, and I can't get 4 bolts in a cologne block. I can get 3, two at the widest point and one of the lower ones.

 

[DaddysTruck]

Thank you. I wasn't sure if the bellhousing holes would be safe or not. I'll take one of the bolts out and match it up at the hardware store.

Any pointers on getting it out? I've got just about everything disconnected except the power steering and a/c. I figure that I can move those to the side and support them without having to remove any lines. The truck sits fairly high, so I planned to remove the wheels and let the front end down to the ground as far as it will go. I'm hoping that leaves enough room to lift the motor over the core support. I'll be using a HF 2 ton lift most likely all by myself. I read that there's supposed to be lifting brackets on the manifolds to hook it to, but if there is I dont see it.

 

[adsm08]

Run to the local parts store and get an engine lift plate. Bolt it in place of the carb. It will afford you enough space to clear the core support with a 2-ton hoist, as long as you don't have a low over-head. It is also the best way I have found to hook on to an engine.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Greasy monster of a 2.8 crawling out with the 4wd A4LD still attached. I let air out of the front tires to help a little. Just had a plate on the carb to lift from, they are like $10 (or were when I was on the market 5 years ago) 3" bodylift with 235/75-15 mud tires.

 

[DaddysTruck]

I haven't been able to find a lift plate locally. I can get one on Ebay, and hope that the holes match up.

www.ebay.com/itm/161804764994

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Thats it.

You don't have any parts stores around you?

 

[Die.Fledermaus]

A plate is nice as it keeps bolts from falling into the intake. But you don't need one, a chain looped is enough. I have even seen tow straps/tie downs used.
As you noticed it is a greasy, pointy, heavy lump. Best over engineer the move rather the repair of the floor and replacement of once usable parts.

 

[DaddysTruck]

I want to do it right, so I'm going to roll with the plate method, it's just something I'll have to order since no one keeps them in stock.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Or make your own. 4 holes to match your carb mounting and one in the center for an eyebolt, platemade with 3/16" or thicker metal.

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[DaddysTruck]

I thought about that, but more along the lines of welding one up. For 20 bucks I think I'll buy one so at least it's not my fault if it fails and smashes my foot.