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welding with a car battery


Coat hangers do work with car batteries, but it is meant as emergency or temp fixes. Just remember when you hook your batteries (if more than one) up in series then your adding your voltage together, when parallel, is the amperage is added. 3 batts in series=36 volts, 3 batteries in parralel= 900 cca. Someoen double check i might have it backwards, but important to know.

This is correct. Series affects Voltage, parallel affects current.
 
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It works GREAT!!!! i always pack some welding rods, helmet and jumper cables with me!!!!
 
That's great, I was looking at the pics and thinking "Only a badass would bring his welding helmet on the trail" before I read the final sentance.:icon_thumby:
 
Well,here is a soldering tip, (stop me if you heard it)...You know how some alternators are soldered from the diodes to the winding,(or some other solder that you wanna tackle, that involves copper)., You take your normal run of the mill triple A battery, take it apart,you will get to a cylindrical carbon based thingy magigy, attach that to the positive end of your booster cables, and the negative to the body of whatever part you are soldering,(the other two ends go to your 12 v battery, disconnected from your vehicle), than with one hand hold the solder an the other use it as you would the electrode holder, put them together... and solder away...It takes some practice, but you never know when you have to Mc gyver the "#$%&/ out of something.
 
looks good.....who needs one of those $1000+ ready welders,eh?
 
Coat hangers do work with car batteries, but it is meant as emergency or temp fixes. Just remember when you hook your batteries (if more than one) up in series then your adding your voltage together, when parallel, is the amperage is added. 3 batts in series=36 volts, 3 batteries in parralel= 900 cca. Someoen double check i might have it backwards, but important to know.

Actually unless your batteries are close to "worthless & weak" you should have nearly 900cca already, but cca is a worthless specification for this discussion it relates to a 30csecond load with the battery at a low temp.

FWIW my Motorcraft battery a group 65 has 775cca at the last test.

the most a car /Lt-truck can provide for any length of time is ~80amps



FYI the average static cling spark is 30,000 volts. But its only like 1/4 or 1/8th of an amp.

the general rule of thumb for jumping sparks is 10,000V to jump a 10mm gap

those little static shocks you can generate are rarely as much as 10milliamps
(1/100amps)

1/4-1/2amps at 30kv would, IF you were lucky, knock you on your ass.

Generally speaking it's better to have some proper welding rod.

Yeah you aren't worried about "Clean welds" when the objective is to get someone off the trail, but wouldn't it be nice if your repair didn't need to be done over once you are back in civilization?

carrying a 5lb assortment of rod is a reasonable thing to do if you are already carrying a helmet and cables:)

AD
 
the general rule of thumb for jumping sparks is 10,000V to jump a 10mm gap Thats why I said the average, that is straight outta electronics building class at the college.

those little static shocks you can generate are rarely as much as 10milliamps
(1/100amps)
This I wasnt sure about, I just know 1 amp is enough to kill you and I really dprefer not to f*ck around with this LOL.
1/4-1/2amps at 30kv would, IF you were lucky, knock you on your ass.
I dont know what amerpage I got hit with, but I hit a pluggedi n prong on a 220 stove plug while standing in water, (dont ask I was doing tile) From what I understand on 220 one prong is still 110v. Man whatta tingle!
Generally speaking it's better to have some proper welding rod.

Yeah you aren't worried about "Clean welds" when the objective is to get someone off the trail, but wouldn't it be nice if your repair didn't need to be done over once you are back in civilization?

carrying a 5lb assortment of rod is a reasonable thing to do if you are already carrying a helmet and cables:)

AD

Had to lengthen my messsaged for some reason, consider it lengthened.
 
I only paid $250 for my Rediwelder. Even the new ones aren't "$1000+". I try to make perminant fixes when I weld on the trail and having the right equipment is the best chance of making that happen.
 
I only paid $250 for my Rediwelder. Even the new ones aren't "$1000+". I try to make perminant fixes when I weld on the trail and having the right equipment is the best chance of making that happen.
http://www.readywelder.com/catalog/index.phpyou are right...where you are.these are u.s prices,nothing there close to $250...but as implied in your post,you did not buy new.we all get good deals now and then,these cannot be used as an example of the typical.i would love to get a ready-welder for $250...i've used them,they work good.in canada,where i am,as well as sasquatch ryda,they routinely run in this price range.as for making trail fixes that are considered permanent,i'm all with you.that's why i carry proper welding rods with me,and by the pics,it appears that sasq. does too.used properly,these will give a professional result.coat hangers will not.....but if that's all there is available,i'll take it rather than being left behind.that sucks.
 
Those welds on that drive shaft are still going strong on that Jeep 2 years later.
 

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