Welded Front with hydro assist?

[97_4x4]

As most of you know I am doing a SAS on the ranger and I WILL be doing a saginaw pump and a hyro assist (adding a cylinder) for the steering.

What are your thoughts on welding the front diff with a additional power of the ram?

I had my D35 welded and I hated it, couldn't turn but I had the stock pump and 35" tires.

I would be adding a locker in the future but need to get the axle in and off road worthy for as little coin as I can. Welding it would allow me to use the money in some other areas.

Will turning still be a big problem or will it be trail worthy?

Thanks

Chris

 

[martin]

The wheels need to turn at different speeds when you turn. If you weld the diff it will not want to turn regardless of how much boost you have on the steering.

 

[97_4x4]

Yes, I understand that but it really isn't an issue on trails, (soft terrain). No it wouldn't be locked on the street. If I really had to drive it on the street (say in the winter), I would just keep one hub unlocked to eliminate the issue of turning at different speeds.

Chris

 

[dirtraider]

my friend wheels welded/welded with hydro assist, you can hardly tell the front end is locked, it turns great. He said he would never spend money for lockers after doinit....he is trail only though.

 

[97_4x4]

thanks dirtraider... I will eventually get a locker up front, and i only intend to drive this onthe street a handfull of times per year, but if the winter roads get really bad it will be my choice...Cause i am not worried aobut denting it...lol

Welded it is.

Thanks

Chris

 

[patov6]

As most of you know I am doing a SAS on the ranger and I WILL be doing a saginaw pump and a hyro assist (adding a cylinder) for the steering.
Chris

Hi Chris,
I don`t know anything about adding a cylinder. Could you be so kind to go deeper in this topic? Tips, brands, pics...?
Thanks!
Pato

 

[97_4x4]

patov, check out redriverranger's cardomain page here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/477871

Specifically pages, 4 and 11.

But here's the general idea.

You tap the steering box in 2 places one on each side of the the piston. You get a hydrolic cylinder, mount it to the axle and attach the end of the ram to the knuckle along with a standard style drag link and tie rod. You then run hydrolic lines from the place tapped in the steering box to the cylinder.

As you turn the wheel the steering box along with the power steering pump sends pressurized fluid to the ram, therefor it has the power of an additional hydrolic cylinder helping to turn the wheels but the safety of having a actual drag link and tie rod incase a hose fails or gets ripped off.

Hope that is clear as mud...lol

Chris

 

[patov6]

patov, check out redriverranger's cardomain page here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/477871

Specifically pages, 4 and 11.

But here's the general idea.

You tap the steering box in 2 places one on each side of the the piston. You get a hydrolic cylinder, mount it to the axle and attach the end of the ram to the knuckle along with a standard style drag link and tie rod. You then run hydrolic lines from the place tapped in the steering box to the cylinder.

As you turn the wheel the steering box along with the power steering pump sends pressurized fluid to the ram, therefor it has the power of an additional hydrolic cylinder helping to turn the wheels but the safety of having a actual drag link and tie rod incase a hose fails or gets ripped off.

Hope that is clear as mud...lol

Chris

Cool
Thanks

 

[Redriverranger]

Don't forget to carry block off plugs, or better yet caps for your fittings in case you blow a hose, or cylinder.