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water in exhaust


Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
22
Age
47
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
Ok, on my 89 ranger 2.9L I replaced the heads with rebuilt heads. I put in new head gaskets using the copper spray sealer. Tightened all head bolts to torque recomendations in chilton. and in the order they listed. However I noticed today that there seems to be a pretty good amount of water coming out of the exhaust. once it warms up it is alot of white smoke. I checked the oil and there does not appear to be any water in the exhaust
any ideas??????
 
Doesn't sound good. Confirm with a leakdown test, then remove the heads when they show a leak into the water jacket.

I don't believe you are supposed to use ANY sealant on the head gaskets. But you should check the heads and deck for flatness with a steel straightedge and feeler gauge.

You did use NEW head bolts, right?
 
Ok, on my 89 ranger 2.9L I replaced the heads with rebuilt heads. I put in new head gaskets using the copper spray sealer. Tightened all head bolts to torque recomendations in chilton. and in the order they listed. However I noticed today that there seems to be a pretty good amount of water coming out of the exhaust. once it warms up it is alot of white smoke. I checked the oil and there does not appear to be any water in the exhaust
any ideas??????

Some water out of exhaust can be OK....but to the point of white exhaust in the summer....not OK

did you accidently get a head gasket on incorrectly...blocking off circulation port??
 
Copper spray is a very old school preparation for head gaskets made decades ago. It's not appropriate for most modern passenger car gaskets.
 
Maybe you didn't need a head gasket to begin with because you have a cracked head?
 
Well after reading some posts, I read that the water could have been still in the exhaust from when the head was cracked, I ran the truck for about 30 minutes and it no longer has any water in exhaust, or smoke.
Now I have other issues. It still is making a ticking noise like a bad lifter, but after a little while that noise goes away. then when you get about 2000 rpm it makes a deeper noise. I am worried that maybe the bottom end may have problems. The truck only has 99k original miles on it. It dies on occastion, and the check engine light comes on and off. but on occasion it runs really good with no noise. So i dunno, I think I may have to spend the money I dont have and have a real mechanic look at it.
I was looking online for a engine tester to get the codes, but the only ones I can find are for 96 and newer cars
 
And for anyone that has not read my other posts, I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel injectors, heads, thermostat. and yes I did use new head bolts, and new exhaust manifold bolts. I am thinking the temperature sensor might not be working, because it is always just barley above the C right at the bottom of normal, it never goes higher. Is there a way to tell if the water pump is working right. I figure if it wasnt it would have overheated by now.
also after putting the engine back together it would not start, I have a mobile mechanic come out, and he said I put the distributor in slightly off, he moved all of the wires over and then it started. He timed the truck by ear, not with a light.
 
sorry as for the copper spray on the head gaskets do you think that is a problem that I used that?, The guy at auto zone said I needed to use it
 
A good mechanic could have found the problem for the cost of replacing just a couple of those probably-good injectors. Throwing parts at a problem is not at all cost effective.

There are more problems caused by clueless parts guys who don't know they are clueless.... It MAY have caused a problem, and the way to tell is with a leakdown test.
 

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