warm up procedures

[mn_smokeater]

yeah my truck dont like the -50 much but it started barly needed to have a block heater on it and a big pan of hot coals under the moter great times

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

start it up, let the rpms down from around 1300 to normal 800-700, wait a bit until the oil needle wakes up(i know i have to replace the sender) or start driving slowly until the needle goes up. when cold
if its normal temp, or the trucks still warm, i just let the rpms go down, wait a lil bit and drive

 

[mn_smokeater]

start it up, let the rpms down from around 1300 to normal 800-700, wait a bit until the oil needle wakes up(i know i have to replace the sender) or start driving slowly until the needle goes up. when cold
if its normal temp, or the trucks still warm, i just let the rpms go down, wait a lil bit and drive

at least your gauges work. mine not so much the ignition in my truck is all fawked up witch therefore makes the gauges no worky oddly though it runs just fine just have no idea what the gauges read til i fiddle with it.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

yeah i know what is like to drive withuout any gauges, my uncle had this 83 ranger and all the gauges were brken/unplugged, dont ask me how lol!! i even dind knew how much diesel it had, that was kinda scary, later he added a temp gauge, battery and oil press.

 

[mn_smokeater]

oh yeah but thats fun though. i have noticed though that the 2.8 with its solid lifters already is a bit loud just as is but when its cold boy she clatters a little bit at first.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

haha mine has some ticking valves too, when its cold they are loud, when warming up it starts fading, weird thing is that when the oil press gauge comes up the tick goes away...is it that the oil pump is failing, not the oil sender

 

[mn_smokeater]

is it an all the time thing or just when its cold?

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

just when cold, but sometimes i can hear a low ticking when revving the engine and suddenly letting go the gas.
i tried those valve cleaners and an engine flush, helped a lot but the tick and the lazy needle are still there. also swithced to 10w-30, and runs smother, it had 20w-50, that was killing it

 

[mn_smokeater]

hmm maybe someone smarter then me will chime in on it.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

mmm nah not a big deal right now, engine runs fine, and let me tell it RUNS fine, ive been reading about this on the 4 banger section and seems like its common on the 2.5 engines, im gonna fix it later, it aint that annoying

 

[James86]

I have the clunk to 2nd gear, and I notice it cuz i live on a corner with a stop sign, so i back out teh garage, never leave 1st cuz the stop sign is maybe 80 ft from my driveway, ansd then I accelerate downhill to the highway, so it kinda "jumps" into 2nd. I have noticed on various ford auto's that there seems to be a hell of a spread between 1st and 2nd, so I just let off when i know itll shift to 2nd and I dont notice the clunk. I got a flush and filter change at around 100,00 (currently at 104,000), and the shop never noticed or commented on any rough shifts afterwards. It's smoother but i can still tell its there. By the time i hit the highway, everything seems ok.... it may be im overlooking something....

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

trannys tend to act rough when the fluid is still cold

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

about 1 min of running is all i do, if that long......this is on both my 67 F-250, and my 98 skylark

 

[Duke]

If you don't have a carburetor and are not going to be maxing the engine out, be it racing or towing a huge load, there is no need to warm an engine up aside from adjusting the temperature of the cabin. I took a class on this that was taught by representatives of a major oil company for work. An engine is not so frail that it will destroy itself if not warmed up. By the time you start it and reach down for shifter there is plenty of oil on the internals. Also, in most cases, over 95% of engine wear is on the initial start up when there is no oil on your internals. For those who have to warm their transmissions up that may be a different story.
Synthetic oil isn't suppose to get thick when it is cold, so if you have troubles starting when it is cold this may help you.
You also don't want to use a different grade of oil on your engine than what is recommended. Your engine was designed with different tolerances and there is a reason if your vehicle calls for an oil grade you should use it. If you have an engine that calls for 5-30 (the 5 is the viscosity of the oil on start up and 30 is the viscosity at operating temperature) and you put in 20-50 it is going to take longer for the oil to travel to those vital internals, and you will be wearing out your engine sooner. If you have a leak, yes, thicker oil may slow it, but it is much better for you to fix the problem, or treat the oil with additives. If you have a leak and use synthetic, it will leak out faster than regular oil since all the molecules are the same size and not irregular in shape like conventional oil.
I hope this is helpful to you.

 

[901wd]

In my 2.9, I let her run untill the ticking stops, about 20 seconds.

I don't miss the 2.9