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Wacked-out check engine light


The PATS red warning light now flashes five times after attempting to start(key is removed). I think that is a code for failure cause like the older OBD1 system. Probably a job for Ford to look at, but I'll attempt repair at a local shop first. Researching this site, I don't find much about the PATS security system other than explaining how it basically works. Have not seen the same problem I have with my 2007 Ranger. Oh well...
 
PATS theft light should flash a 2 digit code

Short Video here on that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kBZeBbb9PM

Turn key on and theft light will flash rapidly if there is a PATS problem, leave key ON
Wait about a minute and it should flash a 2 digit code and repeat it

From Fordtalk forum
The PATS LED will flash quickly for 1 minute, and then
start flashing the fault code as follows:-
Example : code 31
3 Flashes
1 Flash
Three seconds delay
Repeat of code for 10 times

Code Descriptions :-
Code 11 Transceiver not connected
Code 12 Transceiver
Code 13 No key data received
Code 14 Part of the transponder code received
Code 15 Wrong transponder key
Code 21 Less than the minimum keys required programmed
Code 22 Failed diesel pump control unit identification
Code 23 The response code between pump control unit & powertrain



The Transceiver is the metal antenna(ring) around the ignition key slot, it picks up RFID tag number from the key for computer to read and compare
Transponder is the RFID tag in the keys handle
Usually it doesn't matter but if you have multiple Ford vehicles that use PATS then keep them on separate key rings, having two PATS keys close to the transceiver could cause "garbled" read of one key only
 
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Code 16 indicates faulty wiring between PATS and computer, added it to above list

And this could also be problem with dash.

There is a Test Mode for the digital dashes
Google: 2007 ford ranger dash engineering mode

You may also get a clue from error codes found there
 
Near as I can discover, this is a wiring communications problem between the PCM and the insturment cluster.
 
I accessed the engineering test mode. I got 47 different codes and I dont know what any of them mean.

Gauges
Bulb
Temp
P7L54H
PAJ2
700 5
C100 then five beeps
C20F
dtc1 9868
dtc0
C100
T in 1
E
N----
t----
FA132
EbdL
Oil L1014-16
2F
0
d.2 00
d.3 80
d.4 98
d.5 81
d.6 00
d.7 ?×
d.8 14
d.9 42
d.A 36
d.B 43
An 0 02A
An 1 241
An 2 267
An 3 00E7
An 4 0000
An 5 5
An 6 0
An 7 0
Just did this for your information, wonder, and amusement...
 
Does it seem reasonable that I can fix this with a replacement insturment cluster?
 
I wouldn't swap instrument cluster just on speculation

Don't have a book on the DTC "odometer" display codes, so don't know what most mean

Post here has some info: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/100135-dtc-9868-a.html

First column is OBD2 codes, you only get these using an OBD2 reader
Second column are the ones that can come up in "odometer" display in diagnostic mode.
 
If anyone is curious... The truck has been at a Ford Dealership two days now. They have been looking at it, including a supervisor. They can't find what the problem is. I await a call from them...
 
Thanks for the update

Yes, I would be interested in what they find.
Obviously not a common or even a "rare" issue, it's a one-of-a-kind failure
 
A $2100 repair. Spent $600 on electrical diagnostic work without finding the cause. It just started on it's own again without any repair work being done. However, it was recommenced to replace the PCM, so I did.

The check engine light has come on again today. Says its the camshaft position sensor. Where is that located on a 2.3? thanks
 
There are 5 codes for a Cam sensor, all mean something different.
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent

On the 2.3l DOHC it should be on the drivers side top of valve cover towards the back, its just a plug n' play sensor, no gear drive

Common mistake DIYers, and even pro mechanics, make is to look up the one code the OBD reader shows.
Computer always has several codes for any one system it can choose from, reason for that is because it not a "computer" like we think of a computer, it is an actual Compute-er, all it does, and can do, is to calculate large numbers quickly, to "compute" air/fuel ratio.
Other than that its just a simple on/off selector when it comes to codes, binary, so the code it "chooses" is important, but so are the codes it did NOT choose for that system.
 
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So what does your post mean for me? Does A PO340 code not necessairely mean the sensor is bad, that it gives that code but could be one of the others? I just bought a new PCM.
 
340 and 344 could be wiring issues, i.e. circuit issue
The range or high and low would be sensor or PCM issues, i.e. PCM is getting data so wiring is good, just not getting "good" data

Unplug the sensor's wires, and have a look at contacts, also make sure wires are not frayed, if all looks OK, plug it back in and clear the code
See if, and when, it comes back, how long it takes a code to set again can be helpful for diagnosing some codes.

Often unplugging a sensor's connector and plugging it back in cleans contacts so sensor starts "working" again, and thats why new sensors fix the problem, lol, connector got cleaned off.

When you get 10+ years on an electrical connector it can build up a little corrosion, simply sliding it back and forth will clean it
 

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