Volant? Not so sure.

[5Rangers]

I am thinking of putting a Volant on my 04 3L Edge so I wrote Volant with a question. See the emails below:

Dear Sir,
I'm interested in puchasing a Volant CAI for an 04 Ford Ranger with a 3L engine. The Volant pn is 19130. I see that the system comes with a device called a Mass Air Flow Regulator. The mass air flow sensor is used to find out the mass of the air entering the combustion chamber.

My question is what is the purpose of the regulator in the installation? And, how does it function?

Answer from Daniel at Volant Tech:

It regulates the amount of air the truck will pull in, so it sets the correct air fuel ratio

My response:

Hi Daniel,
Thanks for writing back. I am slightly confused by your answer. Not being arguementative but how does it regulate airflow? In my mind and please tell me if I'm wrong, but since the intake allows more airflow the stock sensor will cause a lean fault. So I'm thinking the regulator is an electronic device that goes between the plug and the sensor to trick the computer to allow the engine to run richer to coincide with the increased airflow, correct?

Again, not being argumentative, but I believe, mabye you can verify for me but isn't the device that "regulates the amount of air the truck will pull in" , the throttle body?

Anyway,, everyone on the boards howl about the Volants except for a few anti - CAI guys. But has anyone experienced this amount of foolishness from Volant tech?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

My 4.0L intake did not come with any of that. Just some hard parts that took all but a half hour to install. I had a custom 93 octane tune to compliment it also.

 

[STingray1300]

I looked at a Volant as well (I don't like K&Ns - they don't filter or flow very well comparably).

But help me understand this point: Looking at the set up, the filter is open to the engine bay. That means that it is not a CAI system, but actually a HAI (Hot Air Induction) system.

The OEM system is more like a CAI than an aftermarket set up, as it draws air from in front of the radiator wall, and thus relatively colder. So, why would I want to suck in hotter air?

Do I have this somewhere near right? Or.....?

 

[mattpresley]

Your right, when the air filter is open it does suck in hot air. The Ford air system a cool air system. It's better to just stay with the air box and paper filter. I have learned in the way past a aftermarket system like that does notta. Even a high flow filter inside the airbox does nothing. Unless you like being empty pockets to gain a cool noise.

The amount of air that comes into the engine, yeah the MAF meters the amount of air, but the computer is what makes the corrections has it see's more air coming thru that sensor.

If you want a better performance get some pulleys, better gears, Flowmaster 40, etc but no intake.

In the years of my book learnings, the things I have learned that work is a strongly rebuilt 3L, 4:10 gears, Flowaster 40 & 2.5 piping, 5spd is what really helps. I don't like alot of exterior bolt on stuff. I tackled the inside of the engine.

Not to threadjack. I try to peacefully read and move on but something always catchs my eye.

Man I love your Milton from office space avatar

thats my stapler

 

[5Rangers]

I talked to a different guy in their technical dept today, he began to feed me a load of crap but when I began to correct him, he finally told me what I was wanting, that basically the regulator is a miniature electronic device the goes between the MAF sensor and the wire harness, its job is to correct the signal from the MAF to avoid lean faults. What I thought. He said allot guys forget to install them thinking it is an extension to allow the harness to reach and the harness reaches without it so they don't put it in an then get a CEL. He also recomended to pull the power off while installing to allow for PCM relearning after installation.

 

[triumphrider-1]

I talked to a different guy in their technical dept today, he began to feed me a load of crap but when I began to correct him, he finally told me what I was wanting, that basically the regulator is a miniature electronic device the goes between the MAF sensor and the wire harness, its job is to correct the signal from the MAF to avoid lean faults. What I thought. He said allot guys forget to install them thinking it is an extension to allow the harness to reach and the harness reaches without it so they don't put it in an then get a CEL. He also recomended to pull the power off while installing to allow for PCM relearning after installation.

I guess I'm not following. You plug this in-line of the stock MAF sensor and its wiring harness? I don't see what this accomplishes other than tricking the computer into thinking its running off of stoich.

 

[rurouni20xx]

its an inline resistor that makes the maf signal look stock when in reality its pulling in more air, actually causing a lean fault which will be detected by the o2 sensors and throw a cel. usually a left bank or right bank lean fault. the larger air filter element does help as well as the larger smooth intake tube. i havent seen the intake setup but if the filter is located under the headlight it is pulling the same temp air as the factory system when the truck is in motion. idling is when it is pulling engine bay air. you can even build a block off like airaid does that allows for only air under the headlight to be sucked in as well if desired. as for 2.5 inch piping you lose torque from lack of exhaust pressure, no larger than 2 1/4 should be used until you go above the 300 ci displacement mark, be it single in/single out, dual in/dual out, or dual in single out. i stumbled upon a flowsheet that read this, as soon as i find it again ill post it. regears do help, underdriving and high ratio rockers do the most for the 3.0. basically id do the cai just dont put the resistor on the maf, let it really read how much air is being drawn into the engine as the maf or mass air flow sensor senses air density in cfm. also do not modify your maf (cut the center post out of it as tempting as it seems) it straightens the airflow and centers the air over the element for a proper reading. removing or cutting the post down actually throws the reading off by not properly directing the air over the element. if you want a modified maf id suggest a pro m mass air unit that is designed to run without a center post and calibrated for that setup. you see the maf resistor thing on ebay all the time for 65 bux that claims 20 hp when in reality all it does is throw codes and make your engine ruff. as for regulating the amount of air that goes into the engine the only thing that can actually do that is a restrictor plate, which im sure you dont want because it would defeat the purpose of the larger intake tube.

 

[triumphrider-1]

its an inline resistor that makes the maf signal look stock when in reality its pulling in more air, actually causing a lean fault which will be detected by the o2 sensors and throw a cel. usually a left bank or right bank lean fault. the larger air filter element does help as well as the larger smooth intake tube.

The engine can only use so much air, the larger filter surface and larger "less restrictive" tubing may help to cut down slightly on pumping losses, but I doubt they will flow so much more air that you are outside of the calibrated flow range and have to modify the signal from the MAF.

I've ran my truck with only the top piece (the piece that hooks to the intake tubing) of the stock box hooked up before and did not throw a CEL.

 

[rurouni20xx]

the smoother tubing and larger filter allow for more intake velocity and allow more air to enter the engine. this is sensed by the maf and the fuel map is richened. what im saying is the resistor makes the engine read the stock amount of air is entering the engine when in reality more air is being pulled in. it makes the truck think there isnt as much air running into it and keeps the same map, leaning the truck out, this is not good by any means. in other words dont use the resistor it will cause problems, the rest of the system yu can modify to your hearts content as long as you dont mess with the maf signal so the truck can tune itself accordingly. you can run the truck with the lower airbox removed and it will not throw a cel, your simply changing the size of the filter inlet, the engine is reading how much air is being pulled from the maf back and runs normal. when you enlargen or smooth the intake tract it reduces sidewall flow resistance making your intake pull with less resistance. the maf will sense this change and adjust the fuel map accordingly. you have to admit the intake for the 3.0 where it gets smaller across the fan shroud and all the ridges can hamper flow, the purpose of the cold air system is simply to smoothen out the flow of air being directed to the engine. its not much of a gain but it is a gain. the larger filter in reality is not necessary since the factory setup can feed a 245 hp 4.0, but if you want to change it thats up to you. most ppl do it for the lifetime filter that is supplied with the kit, no need to change the filter just service periodically. i service mine every other oil change since i live in the city.

 

[doyouquaxu]

I talked to a different guy in their technical dept today, he began to feed me a load of crap but when I began to correct him, he finally told me what I was wanting, that basically the regulator is a miniature electronic device the goes between the MAF sensor and the wire harness, its job is to correct the signal from the MAF to avoid lean faults. What I thought. He said allot guys forget to install them thinking it is an extension to allow the harness to reach and the harness reaches without it so they don't put it in an then get a CEL. He also recomended to pull the power off while installing to allow for PCM relearning after installation.

ohhhhh, thats what that thing is! i just thought it was an extension when i put my intake on my truck... well, i've had the intake for a little over 2 years now and its never thrown a code, and sounds freakin' sweet when i get on the gas. i have a sealed box, so the air is pulled from behind the headlight and there is also a hole in the box that seals onto a stock hole in the fender and pulls from there. i have a scangauge II, and can check my intake air temp and can see that it is a LOT lower than engine temps when driving around, but warms up considerably when at idle.

 

[Viper Command]

True CAI........Eat your Hearts out!

 

[rurouni20xx]

omg is that heater hose from the maf to intake manifold with the iat sensor halfway down it? thats some cheap shit there i can fabricate that for dirt. as for the airbox assembly it looks nice but id try to make a shroud for the air intake to pull either from the fenderwell underneath it/the inner fender next to it/underneath the headlight.

 

[Viper Command]

it does pull from the finder, the tube is 3" at the maf to 2" at the tb.
mind you im replacing the motor right now.